Kaptol and Gradec are two original districts in the upper town of Zagreb. Start at (1) Trg bana J Jelačića. This is the main square and the centre of Zagreb. Most of the trams stop on the square, and the main tourist office is here also.
In the middle of Trg bana J Jelačića is a large statue of Ban Jelačić on a horse. He led Croatian troops to battle with Hungary. He wanted Croatia to be autonomous, but his battle was not successful. From 1866-1947 his statue was in the square, but then was removed by Tito. It was too nationalist. When the government changed in 1990, the statue returned.
Walk up Bakačeva from the main square. To the right you find (2) Katedrala marijina Uznesenja (Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary). There are two large spires on the cathedral that you can see from most of the city. Inside you can find the Tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac. This is the second cathedral here. There was a bad earthquake in the 1800s and much of the original was damaged, but you can see some design from the original here also.
Behind here is (3) Ribnjak Park, a nice peaceful place. There are places to sit and picnic. If you are travelling with children, they will enjoy it here.
From Ribnjak Park walk to (4) Dolac. This is the daily fruit and vegetable market. On a Friday or Saturday you will also find fresh flowers, home-baked goods, and wooden items. Around the edge of the market are small open shops selling souvenirs and traditional lace and clothing. At the end of Dolac are steps and at the left is Skalinska ulica. It meets (5) Tkalčićeva ulica. In the day people sit at outdoor tables drinking coffee and sipping beer. It is a popular street to be seen on and has a good atmosphere in the day or at night, so stop for a coffee or ice cream.
If you turn to the left on Tkalčićeva, you come back to Trg bana J Jelačića. I turned to the right and found myself to be away from the crowds and with very few other tourists. Turning right on Tkalčićeva, you will see many streets to the left. Any of these bring you to Radićeva ulica. Turn to the right here and you will find the (6) City Museum on a green. This is only a small museum. It tells the story and history of Zagreb in literature and also art. You can see here a beautiful model of the Gradec part of Zagreb as it was originally.
Ilirski trg is the road around the green, and here you can find Zagreb’s oldest café. It is called (7) Palainovka and is a Viennese-style café. It is the only place I found in Zagreb that makes really good coffee. There is a terrace outside with views down into the city. I stopped here for lunch, and it was really good.