Puno, on the edge of vast Lake Titicaca certainly receives more negative comments than most places and although it's certainly not the most attractive spot in the world it's not really that bad!
It is a convenient starting point to the various islands on the lake or to continue on to Bolivia, Cusco or Arequipa.
Use it as a rest stop!
The regulatory trip is to take a day tour out on Lake Titicaca or if you really want to soak up the local atmosphere you can stay overnight on Taquile. If you choose to do this you are billeted with a local family on the island. Whether it is for a day trip or longer all the islanders benefit as all of the islands are run as co-operatives so therefore share all income.
In Puno itself we found the people here were very friendly and helpful. Also, comfortable accommodation and cosy restaurants are quite reasonable.
${QuickSuggestions} Most people use the train to come or go to Cusco, we found the bus was not only much cheaper it was also much quicker and followed a very similar route.
There are loads of travel agencies in town who sell similar trips out on the Lake at around the same prices. Don't be surprised when you are picked up and taken to the dock that it's not near as flashy or new as the one you expected when shown the tour album at the travel agency. Full day trips cost about 18-25 soles with hotel pickup, guide and boat trip. Lunch is extra. They represent good value. You may not realise that most of the 10 hour trip is taken up just with getting there and back on the boat. If you don't want to chat with your fellow passengers you will need to bring a good book!
Weatherwise, we found the days were pleasant enough. Take care if outdoors because at this altitude the sun is vicious. Then if the clouds roll in it can be chilly. The nights were very cold. Make sure you have lots of blankets (or a companion) on/in your bed!${BestWay} In the centre of town it is small enough to walk although taxis are plentiful and cheap.
You do need to take a taxi from or to the bus station as it is a little further out of town. We always ask a local; i.e. a guard, bus attendant etc. for an approximate price on the taxi fare beforehand as a new gringo without a price in mind is fresh meat and the price will always triple.
There are also pedal powered trikes or cyclos for shorter distances however unless you wanted to freeze near to death at their very slow pace a taxi is much quicker and far more comfortable.
We found this restaurant not the cheapest in town but really cosy and with good food and unusually good service.
Most of the other diners were Peruvian/local which is always a good sign plus they were busy whilst many other restaurants were not so. Always a good sign.
We had the pizza which was exceptional, lots of toppings and a really light nice base.
We followed this with a fantastic apple pie and really good coffee.
The following day we were lucky enough to stumble on the bakery that the restaurant obviously bought them from so had to have another one to try!
Pizza, dessert, wine and coffee was about $10 all up for both.
This is not a restaurant but a bakery that serves fantastic pastries and is as cheap as chips.
We went here on numerous ocassions for a quick, filling snack for lunch and also to stock up on a snack pack for the bus trips. Not that we were adverse to the locals selling their llama etc. on the buses, we just preferred to stick to something that we recognised.
The cheese pastries similar to empanadas were good as were the sublime varieties of cakes including their sensational apple pies.
A goodie bag of about 5 pastries was only about 7.5 soles. The only drawback was you had to arrive here early as by mid afternoon everything was sold out!
This was much more interesting than the previous Uros Islands.
The inhabitants here were not only self sufficient but also had their own way of governing and actually worked as a co-operative, all working together. They had their own decision making council, this changed on a rotating basis and was made up of married men. If you never married, sorry, no position and women's rights, unheard of. But it seemed to work. As per tradition, the men sit around all day knitting, yes that's right, they have the best job, the poor old woman work, cook, clean and the men knit woolly caps and swap their cocoa leaves. Great life for some!
The lunch that we were served in a local restaurant (extra charge only about $3) was acceptable, a choice of fish or fish. It also gives you the opportunity to try the local version of cocoa tea but slightly different.
Just a word of warning, make sure you understand very clearly where your boat leaves from as the departure point is on the other side of the island. On our trip we left behind 1 English male & 1 Swedish female and picked up some previously stranded Germans. I believe this happens all the time.
This is a worthwhile and most pleasant part of the day trip.