It was in the pursuit of the love of a good woman that I first travelled to Belo Horizonte, returned three times, and will eventually be living there. This is a journal of my travels to Belo, which I hope will encourage you to visit this relatively unheard of city.
by daviebee on January 24, 2005
Ask the average person on the street where Belo Horizonte is and you’ll probably receive a blank stare. But why is it that this city of 3 million is not well-known? A more intelligent person could no doubt write an essay on the reasons for Belo’s anonymity, but I would argue that it’s certainly not for a lack of things to do. Admittedly, I can see why newcomers to Brazil would opt for Rio’s famous beaches rather than a little-known city to the north. However, for the returning tourist or anyone wanting to experience a purer form of Brazilian culture, Belo Horizonte is the place to go. The city’s charms are not immediately obvious. To the European eye accustomed to the grandeur of Paris, Rome, or London, its buildings are largely unattractive. But Brazil is not about beautiful buildings - it’s about energy. And that’s something Belo has bags of. From its bustling centre to its quiet parks, from street entertainers to the Palacio das Artes, from street cafés to chic restaurants, there’s always something happening. It may not have a beach, but the inhabitants of Belo are proud of what they’ve got – and quite rightly, too. ${QuickSuggestions} Belo Horizonte is not the kind of place that opens up easily to the tourist. For a start, it’s big and fairly hilly. This makes getting around on foot difficult and potentially tiring for less-fit individuals (see next section for more travel tips). Furthermore, while Belo’s places of interest are mostly in the centre, they are still rather spread out. For these reasons, I strongly recommend that newcomers to the city plan their trip well and keep their trusty Rough Guide at hand. Precisely because Belo is not a popular tourist destination, the city is relatively unprepared for tourists. There are very few signs in English, and waiters and waitresses don’t always speak a large amount of English, if any. While it’s not necessary to speak fluent Portuguese, having a few basic expressions prepared is a good idea. Don’t worry, though, Brazil is one of the friendliest places on Earth. You’ll be welcomed with open arms – no matter how you pronounce, Eu quero um Coca Cola, por favor. ${BestWay} For people who like a good walk, Belo Horizonte has plenty of treats in store. Many of Belo’s treasures are hidden away, so you never know when you might happen across a craft shop, interesting building, or quiet little restaurant. Plan a rough route, keep a map with you, and start walking ! For those less enthusiastic about walking, the city’s bus service is of a good standard. The buses are usually on time and you can travel any distance for around 30p ($0.60). A word of warning, though – despite the laws of physics and the health and safety regulations that apply in other countries, there is no limit to the number of people that can be squeezed onto a bus in Belo Horizonte. No one is ever refused entry because the bus is full. Be prepared to get intimate with the person standing next to you. If you’re feeling flush, there’s always a taxi passing by that will get you to your destination in a short amount of time. There’s a reason that taxis in Belo arrive at their destination quickly and it’s very simple - they drive incredibly fast. Seatbelt use is strongly recommended!
A more intelligent person could no doubt write an essay on the reasons for Belo’s anonymity, but I would argue that it’s certainly not for a lack of things to do. Admittedly, I can see why newcomers to Brazil would opt for Rio’s famous beaches rather than a little-known city to the north. However, for the returning tourist or anyone wanting to experience a purer form of Brazilian culture, Belo Horizonte is the place to go.
The city’s charms are not immediately obvious. To the European eye accustomed to the grandeur of Paris, Rome, or London, its buildings are largely unattractive. But Brazil is not about beautiful buildings - it’s about energy. And that’s something Belo has bags of. From its bustling centre to its quiet parks, from street entertainers to the Palacio das Artes, from street cafés to chic restaurants, there’s always something happening. It may not have a beach, but the inhabitants of Belo are proud of what they’ve got – and quite rightly, too. ${QuickSuggestions} Belo Horizonte is not the kind of place that opens up easily to the tourist. For a start, it’s big and fairly hilly. This makes getting around on foot difficult and potentially tiring for less-fit individuals (see next section for more travel tips). Furthermore, while Belo’s places of interest are mostly in the centre, they are still rather spread out. For these reasons, I strongly recommend that newcomers to the city plan their trip well and keep their trusty Rough Guide at hand.
Precisely because Belo is not a popular tourist destination, the city is relatively unprepared for tourists. There are very few signs in English, and waiters and waitresses don’t always speak a large amount of English, if any. While it’s not necessary to speak fluent Portuguese, having a few basic expressions prepared is a good idea. Don’t worry, though, Brazil is one of the friendliest places on Earth. You’ll be welcomed with open arms – no matter how you pronounce, Eu quero um Coca Cola, por favor. ${BestWay} For people who like a good walk, Belo Horizonte has plenty of treats in store. Many of Belo’s treasures are hidden away, so you never know when you might happen across a craft shop, interesting building, or quiet little restaurant. Plan a rough route, keep a map with you, and start walking !
For those less enthusiastic about walking, the city’s bus service is of a good standard. The buses are usually on time and you can travel any distance for around 30p ($0.60). A word of warning, though – despite the laws of physics and the health and safety regulations that apply in other countries, there is no limit to the number of people that can be squeezed onto a bus in Belo Horizonte. No one is ever refused entry because the bus is full. Be prepared to get intimate with the person standing next to you.
If you’re feeling flush, there’s always a taxi passing by that will get you to your destination in a short amount of time. There’s a reason that taxis in Belo arrive at their destination quickly and it’s very simple - they drive incredibly fast. Seatbelt use is strongly recommended!
by daviebee on January 25, 2005
If you're looking for a romantic evening out, look no further than Belo Horizonte's very own Swiss restaurant, Chalezinho. Complete with candle-lit tables and live piano music, the Little Chalet is intimate and cosy. It is advisable to reserve a table and I recommend sitting upstairs if possible. There is a balcony with two tables on it, but the view isn't particularly spectacular, so anywhere upstairs will be perfect. The restaurant's specialty is fondue, which is served on its own little stove with skewers and a selection of dips. The fondue is more than enough for two people, so unless you have a huge appetite, I'd skip starters and save yourself for dessert. If you fancy a dance afterwards, Chalezinho now has its own club. I recommend putting your name on the guest list at the same time as you reserve a table in the restaurant, but it is possible to turn up after your meal and wait in line with everyone else.
The restaurant's specialty is fondue, which is served on its own little stove with skewers and a selection of dips. The fondue is more than enough for two people, so unless you have a huge appetite, I'd skip starters and save yourself for dessert.
If you fancy a dance afterwards, Chalezinho now has its own club. I recommend putting your name on the guest list at the same time as you reserve a table in the restaurant, but it is possible to turn up after your meal and wait in line with everyone else.
by daviebee on January 27, 2005
If culture, art, or architecture is your thing, I highly recommend paying a visit to the Palacio das Artes. This rather interestingly shaped building is comprised of a large theatre, several smaller theatres, a cinema, and an exhibition area. The theatres put on comedies, dramas, classical music, opera, and even acrobatic displays. The cinema shows a wide variety of foreign and cult films, and the exhibition area puts on displays of photography, art, and sculpture. These are just a few of the events that take place at the Palacio das Artes, so it’s no wonder that it’s considered one of the most important cultural centres in Latin America, never mind in Brazil Prices vary from £2 ($4) for events in the smaller theatres to £15 ($30) for events in the main theatre. The Palacio das Artes often runs a promotion where customers pay a greatly reduced ticket price if they bring 2kg of food for charity. Information about this promotion is usually printed on leaflets for particular shows. There is a bar in the downstairs concourse that serves drinks, hot snacks, and sweets, and there’s also a bookshop that sells a wide variety of "alternative" books and CDs.
Prices vary from £2 ($4) for events in the smaller theatres to £15 ($30) for events in the main theatre. The Palacio das Artes often runs a promotion where customers pay a greatly reduced ticket price if they bring 2kg of food for charity. Information about this promotion is usually printed on leaflets for particular shows. There is a bar in the downstairs concourse that serves drinks, hot snacks, and sweets, and there’s also a bookshop that sells a wide variety of "alternative" books and CDs.
by daviebee on January 28, 2005
Covering 2.3 million square miles, Parque das Mangabeiras is one of the largest urban parks in Brazil. Most of its area is covered by natural forests, but there are several walks cut into it with viewing platforms and dining areas along the way. There are also several little shacks at strategic locations where you can purchase an ice-cold beer or Coke and shelter from the heat. The park is worth visiting, both for the nature you’ll encounter in the form of vegetation, animals, and five-foot anthills, and the exceptional views of Belo Horizonte and the park itself. There’s a bus right to the entrance, plenty of parking if you go by car, and a visitors centre where you can obtain details of the walks available. Beside the car park is an open-air theatre, which often has something playing on a Sunday afternoon and is particularly good fun if you take kids with you. Don’t forget to take a camera, and the use of sun cream is advisable, since you will be exposed to the sun for extended periods. Incidentally, to get to the park, you have to pass through one of the wealthiest areas of Belo Horizonte. It's always interesting to see how the other half lives, and judging by the size and location of the houses, they live very well indeed.
The food in Brazil is fantastic, the food of Minas Gerais is particularly fantastic, and Belo Horizonte has enough great bars and restaurants to last a lifetime. Add this together and what do you get? Gastronomic Heaven! In my opinion, there are three major factors that determine your enjoyment of any eating experience and many of Belo’s bars and restaurants score highly in each. The first is obvious. If the food isn’t good, you might as well eat at home. Fortunately, Belo’s establishments take great pride in their fare and whether it be Comida Mineira (traditional Mineiran cuisine) or pizza, you’re guaranteed a fresh and tasty dish. The second factor is service. In keeping with Brazil’s reputation for friendliness, staff members are polite, attentive, and efficient. Nothing is too much trouble, and if there’s even a hint of a problem, it will be dealt with quickly, no questions asked. Lastly, and often underrated in my opinion, is the decor. It’s important to feel relaxed and comfortable when you sit down to eat and in a busy city like Belo; bars and restaurants have become very good at shutting out the hustle-and-bustle of the streets. Whether you're in an open, cool, and airy bar or an intimate, candle-lit hideaway, you’re sure to feel at home. Add to this variety, value for money, and frequent live music, and it’s easy to see why it’s worth eating out every night. Not to mention the fact that cold drinks are actually served COLD – a novel experience for us Europeans! For more information on different types of restaurants and specific restaurant recommendations, see my other journal entries.
In my opinion, there are three major factors that determine your enjoyment of any eating experience and many of Belo’s bars and restaurants score highly in each.
The first is obvious. If the food isn’t good, you might as well eat at home. Fortunately, Belo’s establishments take great pride in their fare and whether it be Comida Mineira (traditional Mineiran cuisine) or pizza, you’re guaranteed a fresh and tasty dish.
The second factor is service. In keeping with Brazil’s reputation for friendliness, staff members are polite, attentive, and efficient. Nothing is too much trouble, and if there’s even a hint of a problem, it will be dealt with quickly, no questions asked.
Lastly, and often underrated in my opinion, is the decor. It’s important to feel relaxed and comfortable when you sit down to eat and in a busy city like Belo; bars and restaurants have become very good at shutting out the hustle-and-bustle of the streets. Whether you're in an open, cool, and airy bar or an intimate, candle-lit hideaway, you’re sure to feel at home.
Add to this variety, value for money, and frequent live music, and it’s easy to see why it’s worth eating out every night. Not to mention the fact that cold drinks are actually served COLD – a novel experience for us Europeans!
For more information on different types of restaurants and specific restaurant recommendations, see my other journal entries.
I have spent a total of 12 months in Brazil, and I haven’t met a single vegetarian yet. It may be that they were just keeping quiet or perhaps I move in particularly carnivorous circles while I’m there. However, I suspect the real reason is that Brazilian meat, and beef in particular, is too good to miss out on. It’s no wonder then that Brazil is full of restaurants that specialise in churrasco (pronounced, shoohassco). A churrascaria often comes in the form of a rodizio (hodjeezeeio), which is basically an all-you-can-eat restaurant where the waiters wander round the tables offering you food. You can indicate that you want a break by turning a little card on your table with "no" written on it. Brazilians have very high standards when it comes to meat, so most restaurants serve better meat dishes than you might find in other countries. I particularly recommend trying a cut of meat called picanha (peecanya) and a type of meat called carne do sol, which has been left in the sun for 24 hours before cooking. The phrase "melt in the mouth" springs to mind! In Belo Horizonte, I visited a particularly good churrascaria called Adega do Sul, which offers a rodizio barbeque and a salad, hot dish, and dessert buffet. For about £4 ($8), you can eat as much as you like and the meat comes straight off the skewer and onto your plate. The restaurant is spacious and cool and is therefore more suitable for a group visit rather than a romantic dinner for two. The restaurant’s address is Avenida do Contorno 8835.
A churrascaria often comes in the form of a rodizio (hodjeezeeio), which is basically an all-you-can-eat restaurant where the waiters wander round the tables offering you food. You can indicate that you want a break by turning a little card on your table with "no" written on it.
Brazilians have very high standards when it comes to meat, so most restaurants serve better meat dishes than you might find in other countries. I particularly recommend trying a cut of meat called picanha (peecanya) and a type of meat called carne do sol, which has been left in the sun for 24 hours before cooking. The phrase "melt in the mouth" springs to mind!
In Belo Horizonte, I visited a particularly good churrascaria called Adega do Sul, which offers a rodizio barbeque and a salad, hot dish, and dessert buffet. For about £4 ($8), you can eat as much as you like and the meat comes straight off the skewer and onto your plate. The restaurant is spacious and cool and is therefore more suitable for a group visit rather than a romantic dinner for two. The restaurant’s address is Avenida do Contorno 8835.
Before I went to Brazil, I thought there were basically two kinds of restaurant - one where you choose a dish and pay a fixed amount for it and the other the all-you-can-eat system, where you pay a lump sum and then attempt to get your money’s worth by stuffing yourself. Prior to my first visit to Brazil, I believed the latter to be the ultimate meal deal. However, upon my arrival in Belo Horizonte, I discovered that there is, in fact, a third way. It’s called self-service. The idea is that you go to the buffet counter, fill your plate, have your plate weighed, and then pay for what you’ve taken. It’s simple but incredibly sensible. You don’t have to worry about getting your money’s worth, it doesn’t encourage gluttony like all-you-can-eat offers, it reduces waste, and you can choose from a wide variety of dishes instead of being limited to one. Rather than leaving the restaurant feeling hungry or uncomfortably bloated, you leave with the rather pleasant and all too uncommon feeling of satisfaction. I realise that this system may be common in other countries besides Brazil; however, it doesn’t exist in the UK and so was new to me. There are hundreds of good self-service restaurants in Belo, and most offer salads, fruits, and a wide variety of hot dishes and meats as standard. Many places also offer barbeque or dessert on a self-service basis, although the price per kilo is usually higher for these. Depending on the quality of the establishment, prices range from £3 to £6 per kilo ($6 to $12), and many of the restaurants at the lower end of this scale are still very good. I’m a 23-year-old male of average height and slim build and I eat roughly 300 to 400g for lunch each day. I usually spend around £2 ($4), which buys me lunch, dessert, and a drink. I’ve been to many good self-service restaurants in Belo, too many to recommend them all here. However, one of my favourites is called Gula Galope, which isn’t far from Alfonso Pena, the main street in Belo. It’s nicely decorated, has a peaceful outside area, and the food is always fresh. Look it up when you’re in the centre.
It’s called self-service. The idea is that you go to the buffet counter, fill your plate, have your plate weighed, and then pay for what you’ve taken. It’s simple but incredibly sensible. You don’t have to worry about getting your money’s worth, it doesn’t encourage gluttony like all-you-can-eat offers, it reduces waste, and you can choose from a wide variety of dishes instead of being limited to one. Rather than leaving the restaurant feeling hungry or uncomfortably bloated, you leave with the rather pleasant and all too uncommon feeling of satisfaction. I realise that this system may be common in other countries besides Brazil; however, it doesn’t exist in the UK and so was new to me.
There are hundreds of good self-service restaurants in Belo, and most offer salads, fruits, and a wide variety of hot dishes and meats as standard. Many places also offer barbeque or dessert on a self-service basis, although the price per kilo is usually higher for these. Depending on the quality of the establishment, prices range from £3 to £6 per kilo ($6 to $12), and many of the restaurants at the lower end of this scale are still very good. I’m a 23-year-old male of average height and slim build and I eat roughly 300 to 400g for lunch each day. I usually spend around £2 ($4), which buys me lunch, dessert, and a drink. I’ve been to many good self-service restaurants in Belo, too many to recommend them all here. However, one of my favourites is called Gula Galope, which isn’t far from Alfonso Pena, the main street in Belo. It’s nicely decorated, has a peaceful outside area, and the food is always fresh. Look it up when you’re in the centre.
by daviebee on January 26, 2005
Like many Brazilian cities, the differences between rich and poor in Belo Horizonte are stark. Rather than the gradual change from wealthy to poorer areas that you find in Europe or the US, the rich often live right across the road or round the corner from a ‘Favela’ (slum). Another aspect of the city which causes a shock to the system is the amount of street children who ask you for money while stopped at traffic lights or on the street. The city’s government wants the public to stop handing money to street children in order to encourage parents to send their children to school. It’s difficult, however, not to be affected by the poverty around you, especially when this kind of existence is unheard of in your own country. I personally feel that giving food instead of money is a sensible alternative to doing nothing, but each person must do what they think is right. When a city contains a very rich and a very poor group of people living in close proximity, it’s not surprising that crime can be an issue. Almost all houses in rich areas have electric fences, CCTV, and large dogs, and in my experience, crime is often at the forefront of local inhabitants’ minds. It’s hard to tell, however, how much of this is due to fear of crime and how much is based on experiences of crime. Whatever the explanation, it’s wise to take precautions when you’re travelling around Belo, especially if you’re white and don’t speak Portuguese, and particularly at night. I recommend not taking your whole wallet when you go out. Instead, carry your credit card and only slightly more cash than you think you will need. Divide the cash into a larger and a smaller amount and keep them in separate locations, so that if someone asks for your money, you can hand over the smaller amount--don’t bother discussing it with them. Apart from that, the rest of my advice is just common sense–-don’t walk down dark alleys on your own, don’t get into cars with strangers, and don’t flash your wallet, phone, camera, or expensive watch all over the place. I’m happy to say that during the year in total I’ve spent in Belo, I have never had any problems. So, at the same time as being sensible, don’t worry about safety so much that you can’t enjoy your stay.
When a city contains a very rich and a very poor group of people living in close proximity, it’s not surprising that crime can be an issue. Almost all houses in rich areas have electric fences, CCTV, and large dogs, and in my experience, crime is often at the forefront of local inhabitants’ minds. It’s hard to tell, however, how much of this is due to fear of crime and how much is based on experiences of crime. Whatever the explanation, it’s wise to take precautions when you’re travelling around Belo, especially if you’re white and don’t speak Portuguese, and particularly at night. I recommend not taking your whole wallet when you go out. Instead, carry your credit card and only slightly more cash than you think you will need. Divide the cash into a larger and a smaller amount and keep them in separate locations, so that if someone asks for your money, you can hand over the smaller amount--don’t bother discussing it with them. Apart from that, the rest of my advice is just common sense–-don’t walk down dark alleys on your own, don’t get into cars with strangers, and don’t flash your wallet, phone, camera, or expensive watch all over the place. I’m happy to say that during the year in total I’ve spent in Belo, I have never had any problems. So, at the same time as being sensible, don’t worry about safety so much that you can’t enjoy your stay.
http://www.igougo.com/journal-j39341-Belo_Horizonte-Belo_Horizonte_-_Unjustifiably_Unknown.html
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