Description: I’ve stayed twice at the Blackwaterfoot Lodge on the Isle of Arran, once in early 2006 and again in the spring of 2007. The Lodge is a Victorian time capsule perserving the ambiance of more relaxed times. It’s a gracious 2-star hotel with plenty of small deficiencies—most notably with its dated bathrooms—but it is also charming, picturesque, comfortable, and welcoming.
The village of Blackwaterfoot is on the west coast of Arran, at the end of the String Road that crosses the island. The Lodge is located a few hundred yards inland from the shoreline--positioned perfectly, according to the innkeeper, to become beachfront property once global warming kicks in.
The Lodge itself consists of a sturdy stone building. In the front, it appears to be a simple block building not unlike many others on the island. But from the back, especially with the addition of a large conservatory, it has a far more complex look. The ground level of the building houses the lounge, conservatory, and restaurant with bar. When I visited, it also housed a cozy pub right off the entrance. The Lodge’s Web site no longer mentions the pub, so I’m not sure whether it's still open. If not, it’s a sad loss. I found it friendly, well-stocked, and just plain chock-full of character.
Most guestrooms are on the first floor, up 19 steps with a small landing about two-thirds way up. Blackwaterfoot Lodge is not a wheelchair-accessible accommodation--though I hasten to add that mobility-impaired customers should be able to patronize the restaurant on the main floor with little difficulty.
My first stay at the Lodge was in a twin bedded double on the first floor (second floor to us Yanks), with a window looking out over the back garden. It was charmingly decorated and had a roomy old-fashioned en suite, also with a window overlooking the garden. Hot water seemed to come from a boiler somewhere in the lower recesses of the building. There was no electric shower heater. A towel warmer in the bath was a welcome modern touch.
On my second visit (this time with Himself), our room was half a level down in what appeared to be an old addition to the building. The windows, sitting more or less at ground level, looked out over the small front lawn and the main road passing through the village. I found the style of this room a bit less pleasing, but that’s a matter of personal taste. It was pleasantly decorated and entirely comfortable. The real problem with this room was the en suite. It was perfectly suitable in terms of floor size, but it was tucked in under a slope from the floor above. This meant that Himself could only stand up to his full height at the end of the tub, extending the shower hose almost its full length. As a shorter person, I got off a bit easier.
Breakfast was served in the conservatory during both of my visits. Both times, the Lodge offered a generous continental breakfast as part of the room rate. A more extensive menu was available for guests who might want something different. Evening meals in the restaurant were quite simply exceptional—tasty, fresh, and exquisitely prepared. I can think of few meals I’ve eaten anywhere that could surpass these. I would happily go back to Blackwaterfoot Lodge for the meals alone! Neither the extended breakfast menu nor the dinner menu were included under the room rate.
Service in all areas was unfailingly pleasant, and it was professional at all the right times. In the pub, service was friendly, with the type of interesting conversation one hopes for when on holiday. Catching the host at the right moment in any part of the Lodge had the potential for leading to fascinating conversation, though one sensed that he knew when to engage in such exchanges and when to hold back.
Would I a return yet again to the Lodge? Well, yes, of course. Twice is not enough for such a place. I would, however, ask not to be placed in the room with the oddly shaped en suite.
Close