Description: For backpackers, bicyclists, or budget travelers, the Pamir Lodge is the go-to place when in Khorog. There are other options with more frills. But, the pleasant staff, good food, and knowledge of the staff make the Pamir Lodge an ideal choice when in Khorog.
Weeks prior, I contacted the lodge and began making arrangements to stay there on my way to Ishkashim/Afghanistan. The staff guaranteed me a room, would help me get a ride to Afghanistan, and even offered to have a cousin of theirs meet me in Dushanbe upon arrival. All of it happened. The cousin helped me make car arrangements from Dushanbe to Khorog, the staff at the Pamir Lodge gave me great instructions on finding a shared taxi to the Afghan border, and even though I didn't arrive until past midnight I had a room waiting for me (and the place was overbooked, too).
The lodge is located next to the Gagarin School, on the south end of town. Finding it the first time can be a little tricky, especially at night, as there are no signs leading up to the lodge, and even the gate to the lodge itself is quite nondescript. Taxi drivers may know the Gagarin School, though, which will lead you right to it. From the center of Khorog, it is a pleasant 15 minute walk to the lodge, along the main road for the most part.
Upon walking through the gate, you'll find a nice courtyard and the house of the owners. There is also a center for the Aga Khan on the property, so you may see people going to and from that building, as well. If you don't see anyone after entering the gate, just call out and someone will surely help you.
The rooms are very, very, very basic. Quite simply, each room consists of just a slightly raised sleeping area that fits two people comfortably. There's no desk, no chair, no TV, no nothing. So, if you need that, look elsewhere.
There is one shared bathroom for the lodge (as of September 2009). There was a sit-down toilet, squat toilet, and a shower.
Rooms (in September 2009) are approximately $6/night. Meals are approximately $3. On my 2 night, 2 meal stay, I paid only $18. The lodge is in the process of expanding, the triple the number of rooms (in September 2009 there were just 5), and provide more bathroom facilities.
Upon arrival, ask the staff if they will be cooking breakfast and/or dinner. There is a small staff, and they don't always cook, so it's best to ask. If they are cooking, expect good soups, bread, and all the fresh baby peaches you can ask for. For breakfast, they will serve effs, tea, bread, and jelly.
I can't stress how pleasant of a stay it was at the Pamir Lodge. I spent a total of 4 nights there, on my way to and from Afghanistan. The knowledgeable staff and hospitality made the stay very comfortable.
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