Here's one that budget bangers can actually get excited about! Hotel Los Gemelos is an economical oasis amidst the tourist-geared swank that dominates Copán Ruinas. Local owner Doña Mafalda Hernández, quite the no-nonsense dowager, doesn't miss a beat or much of anything else! You'll never meet a more cordial sentinel, nor think twice about things left lying around while away from the room. In addition to everything else, she's also the hotel's "safe" and security system.

The one-level, posada-styled structure has 14 rooms; most facing either side of a burgeoning garden extending through the courtyard. Narrow benches line the walk-ways for admiring florals, while having a place to sit.

Rooms don't have chairs but simple does me just fine, and here's what I got: a comfortable bed with semi-lumpy pillows, nightstands, 3-tiered storage rack, hook-pegs and mirror on the wall, and an oscillating fan that proved to be too much.

Complimentary soap, and a small, coarsely-worn towel seemed to be the norm across Central America. Six of the seven places I stayed had me wishing I'd brought my own. But compared to these others, finding this place was a privilege! Aside from overall cleanliness and homey environment, the other low-end rarity were bathrooms actually in working order.

There's a pair of co-ed possibilities located towards the rear; one with two stools and a shower; the other with two showers and a stool. Early morning and late-nite bathing was a little shivering without hot water, but at least there was adequate pressure! Sinks for brushing teeth, shaving, etc. are outside of restrooms, rather ingenious to keep extra necessities from tying-up usage. Another perk not to be taken for granted was sufficient, well-positioned lighting to actually see yourself in the mirror.

Guests also have access to a large laundry basin. With purity of water, I suspect soap detergent is discouraged, just as was sitting on the edge to soak feet when la Doña wasn't looking. She attracts a lot of local attention, welcoming everyone over conversation and café at a large table just inside the entry. She's also just as adamant about sending them away before 9:00pm, so as not to disturb tenants.

Rooms don't have alarm clocks, but nearby roosters faithfully announced the crack of dawn, as did chattering birds in the garden. I welcomed the wake-up calls; light-sleepers should consider ear plugs. Without Daylight Savings Time, anything after 5:00am is sleeping-in.

-- Rooms come with either a double (for singles/couples) or two twin beds. Initially, I almost balked when finding rates had doubled from 2006 listings. Yep, now it costs a whoppin' (well-spent) Lps150/$8 per night.

-- Gemelos is pronounced Hay-may-los. That's important, because you'll probably need ask about location. Copán Ruinas streets aren't named; some type of map is essential. Best described, it's a rambling block off northeast corner of Parque Central, within walking distance of everything.

-- Reservations - telephone: (504) 651-4077; fax: (504) 651-4185; e-mail, info@casadetodo.com; Spanish only.