May 17, 2005
The cabañas themselves are quite comfortable: well-constructed wood-sided, palm-thatched (palapa) huts with attached, curtained-off concrete bathrooms containing a toilet, a shower, and sink-less water tap. (If you've made it this far, you probably know already that you shouldn't drink the water.) The room we stayed in contained a comfy if somewhat hard double bed in a wooden four-poster frame covered with a pretty Mexican blanket; there were also hooks in the walls for slinging a hammock if you preferred traditional sleeping accommodations. The screens in the windows were in pretty good repair, so we had no problems with bugs. There were two little chairs, one of which I happily brought outside to sit in the little courtyard formed by the circle of maybe 10 palapa huts, a pleasant, secluded place with no more bustle than anywhere else for a 200km radius.
The one discomfort we experienced was that the family that runs the place keeps chickens, which meant that there was a rooster. Roosters don't just crow at dawn, they crow all night, and keep crowing more frequently in the morning, so if you're a light sleeper, having one penned up within 20 feet of your open-windowed palapa makes for a restless night. My partner suffered pretty badly, but I'm a sounder sleeper, and as far as I was concerned, the charm of the place more than made up for the noise.
Plus, it paid off at breakfast, which consisted of fresh eggs. Fresh eggs are very different from supermarket eggs, much more flavorful. All the food we had there was good, some of the best cooking we had while on the road: the usual tortillas and chicken for the carnivore and tortillas and eggs for the vegetarian, but this time accompanied with chopped tomatoes, some herbs, and a wonderfully zingy hot sauce that the proprietor didn't seem to expect us to like.
The dining area at the Cabañas is covered but not walled, so you're open to the air but protected from the sun. Meals are available all day (dinner is about $2.50/person) – although, if you arrive late, that means the proprietor will have to go wake up his wife to cook for you. But he'll do it if you ask, so weigh your hunger against your conscience.
No English is spoken, but on the other hand, there are not many options to choose between, so that is not a real problem.
From journal Toucans in the Yucatan