In the Japan of today, the traditional ryokan or inn is the ultimate Japanese paradox. Life so hectic in the modern Japanese city. Everyone is in a hurry, rush, rush, rush. Late into the evening we see the businessmen and women on their way home still carrying briefcases. It is so at odds with the birthplace of Zen Buddhism with its emphasis on solitude and meditation. Conversely, inside a ryokan - everything is low key and oh so quiet.
We are fortunate to stay at one of the most famous - The Tawaraya Ryokan, which has been in the same family for 11 generations. There is a beautiful and completely private garden right outside our bedroom. We walk around our room without shoes on tatami mats. Design is spare in the extreme. Upon arriving back after a weary day of sight seeing, a hot bath, already drawn, awaits. But, one always takes a soapy hot shower before soaking in that glorious bath.
In the rooms, all modern conveniences are hidden. There are covers over the television, phone, refrigerator, even the toilet paper holder. Imagine a toilet that is the highest of high tech gadgets. One has to really search for hidden treasures such as the air conditioning control or electrical outlets, all of which are at ground level to keep them unobtrusive. Our personal lady-in-waiting, Ito is always on hand to bring us cups of the finest green tea or to lay out our futons. Dinner is always available to be served in the room after a long day of sightseeing.