A large hotel of varnished pine, within sight of the bus terminus in Bontoc, looking rather like a Swiss chalet from the outside. I declined the small dark airless singles (only 100 peso a night), with shared shower space behind a curtain on the main corridor, and splashed out instead on a huge luxury double with bath as I had a lot of washing to catch up on. The room wasn’t made up when I arrived – the door was missing – but they promised to put it right within the hour, and everything was fine when I returned, although still lacking a few minor objects such as mirror and rubbish bin. Large carved wooden bed, covered with a local hand woven spread, and carved wooden shutters which didn’t quite fit, but it didn’t matter, because there aren’t any mosquitoes at this altitude anyway. The windows overlooked the backyard of the house behind, full of dogs, children, chickens and old car parts. I could hear the happy grunting of pigs as well, but never saw them. If cock-crowing keeps you awake, take ear-plugs.
The hotel is owned by an indomitable old lady, about four feet tall, who is full of useful information, although it is mainly staffed by an assortment of young hangers-on of variable efficiency, most of whom were more interested in the large TV set in the dining room/reception than in the few guests. The dining room is also a hangout for local guides, looking for custom, who are polite, but very persistent. They couldn’t understand why I didn’t want to spend a couple of days visiting a typical Kalinga village, and pursued me relentlessly round town, striking up conversation in the most unlikely places. "Ah, you use Lonely Planet guide. That is me, on page 208." "I see you are looking at Kalinga handicrafts. You can get much cheaper in Kalinga village. I know the chief very well." But they all smiled and waved goodbye cheerfully enough when I finally left, without having succumbed to their entreaties.
500 peso ($9) a night for double with bath..