Editor Pick
Soulivong Guesthouse
- June 19, 2005
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Hun Ohm from small town, Massachusetts
Affordable Accommodation in Louang Namtha
By Hun Ohm
The Recommendation
Long rides between destinations in Laos provide ample opportunity to discuss experiences and options. A recently engaged Swedish couple rode with us on the slow boat from Muang Ngoi to Muang Khoua and then on the songthaew on the dusty ride down to Oudomxai, and during our time together we heard, amongst other things, their ringing endorsement of the "cleanest restroom in Louang Namtha." As Louang Namtha was next on our list, we decided to follow their advice and headed straight for Soulivong Guesthouse once our bus finally rolled into the Louang Namtha bus station.
The Room, the Restroom
Although the walk from the bus station to Soulivong is a touch far, especially if you're carrying full packs, it’s definitely doable (head approximately four "blocks" east and two blocks north of the station). Located just off north-south-running Louang Namtha Road, Soulivong is within easy walking distance of the town’s Internet café, a local dry market, and several decent backpacker-friendly restaurants. Our room was standard no-frills Laos, but the bed was firm enough, there was an adequate mosquito net, and it was indeed clean. The restroom is public (Asian-style toilet and handheld showerhead), which may not be ideal if you’re looking for more luxurious facilities, but it's definitely functional; as for it being the cleanest restroom in Louang Namtha -- well, that might be a stretch, but the staff did seem to service it several times a day. There are also public sitting areas that are perfect for taking a break and scribbling in your journal or catching up with other travelers. We did not eat at the guesthouse, but complimentary tea was available at all times of the day in these sitting areas. The rate for a room was approximately $2.50 per night, which shouldn’t break most budgets.
The Stranger
Given Louang Namtha’s proximity to the Lao-Chinese border, there is some possibility that you will meet shadowy characters during your time there. A mysterious Chinese man was staying at Soulivong, and we ran into him with some frequency in the sitting areas. He smoked cigarettes at an almost feverish pace while indulging in the free tea, and though he often smiled, a slightly jittery demeanor kept us a little off-balance. What struck us most was that he spoke quite proper English, as well as several other languages, though he claimed he had never left China. He also knew amazingly obscure facts about various Western governments. He was particularly keen on grilling us about document checks by the Lao authorities. Apparently, he had been traveling through the northern jungles (purposely off any discernible, let alone beaten track), had been bitten in the ankle by a snake, and was now recuperating in the guesthouse before moving on. Dissident? Bandit? Spy? He only muttered unintelligible words when we asked why he was in Laos, and we decided it was better not to dig much deeper.
From journal The Notorious Route 7 in Laos, and Other Tales