Located a block behind the one and only main street in Franz Village, all tour operators, restaurants, taverns and shops are a short stroll away. The "cottages" are actually a series of connected motel units formed into an L-shaped configuration around an attractive hot tub in the courtyard. Surrounded by a wooden fence and lush greenery, the spa is private, alluring and romantic with its open views of the night sky and the snow-capped glacier in the distance.

There are 10 cottages (ah-hem, motel units). Some sleep up to five (NZ$20 per bunk) and others sleep two in a double-sized bed (NZ$90). Dorms are sparsely furnished with shared bathrooms. Socializing is encouraged in the well-kept community room which houses a pool table, television, fireplace and comfortable sitting area.

Double rooms have private bathrooms, televisions, bed linens, thick towels, tall ceilings, kitchenettes, and plenty of storage space for bulky backpacks. Rooms painted a pinkish salmon are decorated with fascinating photographs of early 19th-century adventurers hiking the glacier in long skirts, lace-up boots, parasols, and long poles. Hard to imagine traipsing up that glacier without today's GORE-TEX, crampons, and ice axes!

When we first arrived, the owner mentioned that we could join tonight's BBQ for $5. Skeptical that a decent meal could be had for just $5, we skipped the opportunity to eat cheap and socialize, and wandered down main street looking for a quality meal. Decided on Beeches -— which was a big mistake -— and spent $80 on a wineless less-than mediocre meal. So, take my advice. If you stay here and the owner offers you a BBQ, by all means ACCEPT!

We stayed in a double room (US$47 hard to beat!) and had a blissful night of sleep. So quiet, dark and peaceful here. We'd met some people earlier staying in the dorm next door who invited us to go searching for glowworms when it got dark, using torches from the office. But the idea of getting our boots wet before tomorrow's hike wasn't appealing, so we crashed early enjoying the solitude.

Someday if I revisit glacier country, I'll most likely skip Franz altogether and spend my time in Fox. But if I do return, I will definitely stay at the Glowworm Cottages again. Great rates, location, and comfort. Out of the large number of busy hostels, lodges (NZ$200), motels (NZ$80-175) and motorparks available in Franz, none appeared as charming, reasonable and convenient as the Glow Worm Cottages.