Rooms at the Inn vary widely in price and amenities from an incredible $39.00 per night (shared bath) to about $150 (large suite). The Inn consists of two buildings: the older "Historic" section and a larger, newer "West" section.

We''ve always taken a double room with private bath in the "historic" building. We''re smokers, and the rate for that room is normally $69. (Non-smoking rooms are more expensive because they''re newly redecorated.) When they say "double bed," that''s exactly what they mean -- not queen or king. So be prepared to spend a cozy night or select one of the larger rooms.

We''ve found our "cozy" double rooms to be very attractive. They usually feature an iron or brass bedstead, comfortable rocking chair, and small cable television. But aside from the almost-mandatory nap after the spa treatment, nobody at the Inn spends much time in their room.

The public areas of the Inn are charming, furnished with antiques and decorated with the work of local artists and artisans. In addition to the lobby, restaurant, and gift shop, there''s a very comfortable bar and a "parlor" complete with grand piano and card tables. That same charm extends to the extensive gardens that surround the hotel. They''re perfect for strolling or sitting.

Although it might sound as though most of the visitors to the Inn are taking advantage of AARP rates (which are offered) you''ll find that the generations are about equally represented. The desire for a quiet country retreat seems not to be tied to one''s age. It''s a mistake to come to The Country Inn (or to Berkeley Springs) in search of exciting nightlife. Even on the weekends, when there''s dancing and a show at the Inn, the sound of the sidewalks being rolled in at eleven is almost audible. It''s best to take another sip of spring water, remember that you came to get away from all that, and turn in early. You''ll be up early in the morning, and you''ll have a real appetite for your breakfast.

IF YOU PLAN THIS TRIP: Reserve as soon as you can. The Inn is popular all year round, though it experiences a lull (of sorts) in the midwinter.

Be certain to inquire about packages. There are numerous package deals that feature various treatments at the Inn''s spa (called the Renaissance Spa). Many include room, meals, and spa services.