Initially, the old town will seem like a maze, but it will soon be very manageable once you stay at the Slavija for a day or two (assuming you find it first!). It is easiest to locate if you are coming from the south gate, as it is tucked away on a side street east of Vocni Trg (Vocni Square), up a staircase which serves as an outdoor patio for the popular bar. Our room actually had a view of the octagonal 15th-Century Venetian castle tower in this square, but it is unfortunately under wraps for repair work.

The Slavija has the feel more of a dormitory than of a hotel, as some of the 32 guest rooms have private bathrooms while some (like our room) has the good ol' bathroom down the hall. If you want to save a few kuna, book a room with the shared bathroom, which is serviceable if not sparkling (remember to bring the roll of toilet paper and small bar of soap from your room). At least our hall had a window with a pleasant view onto one of the quaint local paths of old town. Each of the room numbers is painted on the doors in huge red numerals. Our reasonably spacious but dated room had two lumpy twin beds, a sink, closet, and a window with a hip (and noisy) view of old town. There is a crowded bar-disco below the hotel, so bring earplugs if you want to sleep at night. There is no elevator, but our room on the second floor was an easy climb up the stairs.

The small and cozy lobby has a small television and the walls are decorated with inspiring images of Split. The people at the front desk speak limited English (you may have a bit more luck if you speak German). The breakfast is served in an equally small and cozy room. The very light breakfast, which is basically bread and jam with coffee/tea and diluted juice, is included with your room rate. It appears that Croatians do not put much emphasis on breakfast, and this is living proof. But did you come to Split to have a great breakfast, or to stay in a great location in the atmospheric old town?