Description: Stamsund, fishing village on Lofoten Vestvagoj island is for many people all over the world is something close to pilgrimage site. And I'm one of them. So, what is so special about this traditional village, far north in Norway? Actually nothing, because the reason to visit this place lays at small bay, near the village. It's the dockside hostel. Justad Robruer og Vandrerhjem is the name, and behind it is the legend of Roar Justad, owner of the place. Roar runs this HI (Hosteling International) hostel for quite some time, and over the years, unique blend of his extraordinary personality, great setting in beautiful surrounding, relaxing atmosphere and great choice of activities, makes this place magnet for many independent travelers. One visit, and some time spent here makes many people wish to come back. And many did.
To get there take the bus from Leknes, or you can come with ship on Hurtigruten coastal steamer route. If coming by bus, get off at the stop near the gas station, little before the village. Just tell the bus driver that you go to hostel, and they'll stop.
Hostel is closed between 15.10. and 15.12.
In 2003, I was there second time, and I recognized some people that I meet first time I been there. And they told me that they coming there every summer for 18 years in row.
As I said, hostel is HI, so non-members have to pay an extra fee. But it's easy (and often quite lucrative) to get the membership card at home before the trip.
Before coming there is wise to make phone call, and make reservation. The hostel offers accommodation in fisherman's cabins (2-8 beds per room). I stayed in dorm room with bunk beds in the loft. They might appear a little chaotic, but if they were not, they would seem a little out of place. Showers and toilets are in the hallway. Being one of the cheapest hostels in Norway, use of hot showers requires some coins to be put in machines before use. There is big kitchen with stoves and ovens, cooking pots and utensils, plates and silverware and fridges to prepare and keep the food. After use, it have to be cleaned and put at place for others to use it. There was one fridge in outside wooden shed, which was designated for keeping the fish only. Wise move, because not everyone is willing to smell fish at every meal. In the same shed, fire wood for stoves was kept, and someone had to chop them (ax was there) and bring them in. And it's not just for cooking, but also it's quite nice to have fire to warm the room at nights. There was custom to put bottles and cans at one place in kitchen, and every morning someone took them into nearby supermarket to collect return fee, which was used for buying common food (oil, salt, sugar, coffee, tea etc.).
Maybe the best thing about this place is atmosphere. It was usual and expected that meals (at least dinner), were shared by everyone there. Everybody prepare something, alone or in group, and it was offered for everyone. Taking in consideration international surrounding, dinners were sometimes culinary globetrotting.
And after dinner, everybody stays at tables and around, enjoying in cup of tea, coffee or whatever is your personal favorite thing. There were conversations about anything and everything, with all kinds of opinions from people of all ages and nationalities. Quite often someone will take a guitar, and sing a few tunes with people joining in.
I was there in August, so I missed the midnight sun (it could be seen from 28.5. - 17.7.), but still the days were almost endless, so everyone just forget about the time and hours. It was simple, when you tired, go to sleep, when you hungry, eat, and if you feel lazy, just lay in the sun or near the fire at evenings.
Roar, the owner, knows almost everything about the Lofoten, and is greatest source of info about activities, places and things to see and do. Above that, he rents bicycles (great way of exploring the area) and loans out rowing boats, free of charge. At time I been there, there were two rowing boats to be used by hostel guests. He also loans fishing lines (for small deposit, which he returns when the lines are returned). So this makes perfect opportunity to go out and catch fresh and delicious meal. There were lot of cods, mackerels and other fishes in the sea in front of the hostel. Well, not really in front, on dock, it took a little effort to row out to the bay. But that too was great thing to do, and sometimes quite a hilarious scene, when a few people that had meet first time in life, and don't know almost nothing about rowing, trying to row together. But, after a few days, almost anyone learn how to row, catch and clean fish and prepare it. Considering food prices in Norway, this is great way to save some money, not to mention the opportunity to have fresh seafood, straight from the sea on the table.
One thing that is wise to do (as I found out hard way) is to take some clothes that are waterproof, when go out on the sea. Rain can come suddenly and unexpected, even on sunny days. First time there, I was in the boat with one Ausie guy, and shower catch us on the sea. I had feeling that so much rain had poured down that we will be able to row in the air. It was look like there was as much rain in the air as there was water bellow us.
Roar, being fisherman himself, knows best spots, times and techniques of fishing, so just ask him. Little problem might be his laid back personality (which is famous). As he told me once, he just don't like people who came to stay a day or two. I witnessed the situation when he send people away, telling them that there is no vacancy, although there was empty beds. As he said, he didn't like their manners and they didn't call ahead to make reservation, so make a call before you come there.
Another funny situation I saw, was when one Italian guy ask him in hallway where are the showers. They were actually behind his back, but he was facing the open door and the sea in front of them, so he said: "Look all that water, why you asking for showers?"
OK, he sure is unusual manager, but if you stay there a few days, you will see that he is wonderful person.
After all, what to say? This is special place, and you either love it (as many people did), or you find it repulsive. Choice is personal. For all those who are looking for different place, to relax, forget about the world and constant hurrying, without the TV, newspaper and internet, this is great place to be. And above that, be prepared to do some work yourself, as washing dishes and sweeping floors. If you expect great service and to be in center of attention, don't go there. Leave that place to people who like it the way it is.Close