A dressing table and a huge mirror in a carved frame, red plush upholstered furniture, stained-glass windows, pre-war quality. In the far end near the French windows an enormous desk. Beside it a small portable television with Indonesian channels only. Other concessions to the 21st century: air-conditioning and a small fridge, empty, not plugged in. On the floor old Dutch tiles imitating a carpet. This room is huge, 10 metres by 6 metres and at least 4,5 metres high. It is all ‘tempo doeloe’, the old days when Indonesia was still a Dutch colony.This hotel is situated in the upper part of Semarang, the view from the terrace is breathtaking: the ocean, the ships. In the evening it is a good place to sit because the sea breeze makes it pleasantly cool. The building itself it curious to say the least. It is ornamented from top to bottom, and whitewashed so often that the relief is no longer as deep as it used to be.
Last year we also stayed here. Then the television did not work. Now it does, but the reading lamp above the bed still doesn’t work. Last year there were some more guests. This year there is no one else.
There is a knock on the door and tea is served. This is the VIP room and we have our own waiter. He serves us our breakfast, collects our washing, books our seats on the train to Surabaya.
I pour out the tea, together with an ant, a big one, dead by now. I don’t mind, I just ask for another pot of tea.
Both times we stayed here our taxi driver had difficulty in finding the hotel. Here are the directions:
Start at Simpang Lima, the modern shopping centre. All taxi drivers know where this is.
From here take Jalan Palawan, when it leads uphill it changes name: Jalan Sudhiarto.
After 500 metres you will see on the left a remarkable pink building with two towers. Here you turn right into Jalan Argopuro, past the post office, at a three-forked junction turn right. Another 200 metres and Hotel Candi Baru is on your left. Don’t confuse it with the Rinjani Hotel on the right.
From Hotel Candi Baru to Simpang Lima, the modern shopping centre, is a 40-minute walk.