If you arrive in Marrakesh a la backpack, expect to be seized upon by a young man intent on taking you to a hotel whether you like it or not. No amount of polite refusals will deter him in his mission. The best policy is to know where you want to go and tell him you have a reservation, whether you have one or not.

Hotel Gallia is a great choice. A ten-minute stroll from the amazing Djemaa el-Fna (see entry) this is a quiet sanctuary from the madness that is Marrakesh. A cool courtyard at the centre of the building sports fully grown trees and echoes to the sound of birds. Sun loungers are available to guests on the roof terrace. Rooms with a shower are plain but clean and pleasant with a moderate tariff. A reasonably priced breakfast is served in the courtyard where you can compare notes with international fellow travellers. The staff can be a little abrupt but this is a small price to pay for a good value, pretty oasis.