First the rooms. Elegantly decorated in rich tones the bedrooms are spacious with a separate seating area. Bathrooms have stone countertops and very nice shower/baths. WCs are in a third room. Each room has a private deck with sweeping views over Funchal Bay. The rooms are on a par with luxury hotels in North America and Europe.

Next the facilities. Outstanding! There are lovely indoor and outdoor pools, small but well equipped exercise room, sauna and steam bath, etc. The spa offers a number of reasonably priced treatments (one hour, full body massage for 45 euros) and the staff couldn't have been better.

The Basalt Bar is smartly decorated with great views down to Funchal. Xopana Restaraunt serves the most sophisticated food on the island. The Paris-trained chef uses local ingredients in innovative way. A bit pricey but the quality is very high.

A very scenic lavada walk passes directly through Choupana Hills. To the west, the trail passes through a very scenic area on its way to Monte. This 90-minute walk is highly recommended but wear good walking shoes or boots as the trail can be wet and muddy.

Finally the staff. From the manager on down, everyone we came in contact with was welcoming, friendly and had our comfort as their priority. That said, they are very young and, especially in the restaurant, get a bit stressed during busy periods.

Drawbacks. From Choupana, it is a 20-minute drive to Funchal on narrow, winding, steep roads. The hotel has a shuttle that will take you there and pick you up. Weather can also be a problem. It is not uncommon for Choupana to be in the clouds when it is sunny in Funchal. During our stay, an intense storm came through with high winds and rain. If you are only coming to Madeira for the sunshine, the tourist hotels in Funchal would be a better bet. If you are content to sit by the indoor pool or near the fireplace in the Basalt Bar during a rainstorm, the weather will not be an issue.