San Juan

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Cheap Trick and a Mattress

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  • Calles Tanca y Fortaleza
     San Juan, Puerto Rico
    (787) 722-5436
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Jose Kevo
Jose Kevo
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4 out of 5
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Cheap Trick and a Mattress

  • September 29, 2004
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Jose Kevo from Middle-of-Nowhere, Missouri
Cheap Trick and a Mattress

Long gone are days of finding rooms along Condado or Isla Verde strip for $30 a night, or booking 7-night stay packages for $595, including airfare. Last time I checked, the cheapest room listed through agencies when making one-night layovers was $89, not including taxes. Thankfully, there's still a pair of overlooked options for budget travelers.

Guesthouse Old San Juan, located at 205 Calle Tanca in the heart of the old city, has became my faithful hideaway regardless of how long I plan on staying. This last trip, I paid $20 a night for a large room with fan and double bed, but have paid as little as $10 for a smaller room, or $25 for a room with air-conditioning. Vicente "Quique" Castro is the bilingual owner; reservations should be made by calling 787/722-5436.

A second option, Fortaleza Guest House, is just around the corner at 303 Calle Fortaleza. I've stayed here twice when the other was full. Rooms are basically the same; more expensive at $30, but perhaps because I was last-minute desperate! Their number is 787/721-7112; they only speak Spanish.

Both guest houses are located on the second/third floors, so be prepared to haul luggage up stairs. Just know that in either place, you're getting what you pay for - a simple room with crude furnishings, shared bathrooms, soap/towel, and, most likely, a fan, but vaulted ceilings enhance coolness. Rooms with street balconies are noisy. Also don't be surprised to find some guests taking advantage of cheap prices as full-time housing.


Facilities are questionably clean, unless taking into account the gradual aging process and wear and tear that comes with it. It's historically gritty with a bordello-like feel, which only heightens the experience, perhaps edgy for some, yet I always sleep like a baby - even when riding out a hurricane and stranded with a Yankee.

Proprietors have always been more than willing to call a cab when returning to the airport during normal hours. For 7 a.m. or earlier departures, you'll need to walk, carrying your luggage, three long blocks to the southwest corner of Plaza de Colón to find a taxi stand.

With round-trip cab fare from the airport including room cost, you're still paying less than if staying out on the strip, but I consider location to be the biggest attraction. When in Condado or Isla Verde, I always felt obligated to tear myself away from the tourist trap to spend minimal time skirting Old San Juan.

Finding these places allowed me to develop a greater, in-depth appreciation and fascination for this historic city; every defining aspect is within easy walking distance, including the main bus terminal for wherever else you'll need to go within the metro area.

If you're on a budget, or looking for something different, without minding the lack amenities, and quick beach access, you'll find these places are definitely unforgettable.

From journal Mistress of My Desires

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