The host, Dr. Cajas, is charming as well, though apparently speaks only Spanish or German and not a word of English, but even in translation, my mother was delighted with the company.

Dinner was pumpkin soup, chicken in a rich herb sauce with a side dish of broccoli and raisins (an Italian recipe, according to the host, and quite good), and dessert was FABULOUS.

The herb and flower garden in the central patio (around which the rooms are arranged) is serene and lovely, and Dr. Cajas will gladly tell you about the plants selected.

The beds are topped with down comforters and closets are stocked with down vests and wool socks, in case you find the mountain air a bit chilly.

Breakfast was also a delight, with two freshly prepared exotic fruit juices, muesli, yogurt, whole-grain bread, coffee, tea, and a cheese board. It's served in the Panorama Room which offers stunning, ever-changing views of the valley below and the surrounding mountains.

There were a few less pleasant surprises. One, the website claims a 20-minute drive from Otavalo, but in a car, the trek was much, much longer over potholed roads. (Dr. Cajas will pick you up in town, if you wish.) The bill also included a few unexpected charges, namely the wine at dinner and the bottled water served at dinner and in the bathroom. We weren't told there would be a charge for the wine and didn't even ask for the water.

Apart from those caveats, it was a lovely escape from Quito noise and bustle. The Hacienda has horses and hiking trails available as well, though we, unfortunately, didn't have the time.