I had felt so much power and self-confidence the first time I hiked in April 2005, I had to do it again. It was a group of 3 woman with one I call the "Grand Canyon Hiking Guru", the woman has done it 11 consecutive times! I must admit this year I didn’t train as well as I should have and I felt it. I did decide to use the hiking poles this year (best hike equipment I’d ever invested it!!) And carried 12 pounds down the trail in my backpack. We started around 11am from the South Kaibab trail (steeper but quicker) and took our time down into the canyon. We made our first stop at the Cedar rest point for lunch. There are so many interesting people hiking the trail. We met an 80-year-old (yes 80!), who was hiking up, as we were going down. He was going at a good pace and stopped and chatted with us. He told us that he had hiked the canyon 45 times this year and did the Rim to Rim hike a few times. The gentlemen did not look 80, I’d say maybe 70 years old. It's amazing what a person can do when they put their mind to it.

We’d made only 2 more rest stops along way and finally made it to Phantom Ranch 4 hours later on the steep 6.5 miles trail.

Phantom Ranch was as great as it was in 2005. Unfortunately our time was a little slower and I ended up getting an upper bunk (BUMMER) since the other women had already claimed the beds. We stayed in the women dormitory—10 bunk beds, a shower and restroom. The Ranch provides all bedding, pillow, and large towel. We got our usual congratulatory drink of fresh lemonade at the Canteen for making it to the bottom. The Canteen is where all food is served. We got to Ranch at 4pm and dinner is served at 5pm. The food is served family style and was as good as last year so that lets me know they are consistent. The Canteen closes after dinner and reopens at 8pm. They sell shirts, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. There is also a nightly "Ranger Talk" that I found very informative last year. This year was just too tired and went to bed early.

The next morning it was time to head out. Up by 4:30am, breakfast at 5am and packed and ready to hike out by 5:30am. The coolness of the breeze that comes from the Colorado River set the tone and gave me the added energy to start our journey out of the canyon
and up to a hike that would take us 6 hours on the 9.5 mile Bright Angel. We took Bright Angel because it has water stations whereas South Kaibab does not.

The hike was worth it the second time around.

We stayed overnight at the Phantom Ranch. It is at the bottom of the canyon, where the weather was warm, about 85°F, compared to 75°F at the South Rim, but the Colorado River runs through, so it wasn't bad, as there was a light breeze. At night it cooled down a bit.

There are cottages for couples and bunkrooms for single genders. We were in a bunkroom with 10 beds, an inside bathroom, and a hot shower (HEAVEN!!). The Ranch provides sheets, blankets and pillow; matter-of-fact, the beds are made up when you arrive!. 1 bath towel for each person is provided also. Each bed has a hook on the wall to hang your backpacks or whatever. One lady who shared the bunkroom with us commented on how she was surprised they supply toilet paper. She said when she had came to the camp 8 years ago, it was BYOTP. You don't have to worry now, it was more than enough :-)

When we arrived (around 4pm), we went to the Canteen to order fresh lemonades. The Canteen then closes to get ready for dinner. Dinner was served at 6:30pm and consisted of all-you-can-eat beef stew, corn bread, salad, tea, and chocolate cake. I'm not a meat-eater, and I didn't know I could have ordered a vegetarian dish, so I just had the salad, cornbread, and tea. The salad was very fresh and one of the best salads I had. At night, the Canteen reopens 8pm to serve beers.

There is also a ranger talk we attended. It was about 45 minutes to 1 hour. The ranger was very informative and entertaining.

There is fresh spring water available to fill bladders and bottles before the hike up and a pay phone available.

The next morning, they do a 4:30am wake-up call for those attending the 5am breakfast. Breakfast was pancakes, bacon, eggs, orange juice, peaches, and tea or coffee. They gave us a sack lunch to take with us, which consisted of apple juice, a large bagel with cream cheese/jam, a small beef summer sausage, a package of peanuts, a package of raisins, an apple, pretzels, cookies, and powder electrolyte.

For $87, this was a good deal. If you are the adventurous type or enjoy being out in nature, this is the place to stay.

I stayed in the dorm rooms at Phantom Ranch. There were eight tired guys sleeping there, all of whom were snoring at various levels. My initial plan had been to stay at the campground at the Ranch but when there was an opening at the dorm I figured I'd save some weight in my pack and stay there. Next time I'll carry the camping equipment. It was very hard to sleep with that number of people snoring, going to the bathroom, staggering in after drinking their share of the mule lugged beer. The conditions did contribute to me getting an early start the next morning and seeing an incredible sunrise in the canyon. If you're not the camping or dorm type I understand the ranch has private cabins you can reserve as well.

Bottom line: if it's the only way you're going to be able to spend a night at the bottom then by all means, suck it up and stay. But if you have a tent or can get one of the cabins, do it that way.

Phantom Ranch (reached by hiking, mule, or raft trips) dormitories are $22 per person. They have AC, restaurant, shared showers. Mule trip packages from $251.75 per night, per person, includes meals. Reserve early. If you have a fear of falling from great heights, don't go on the mule trip.

Rustic but comfortable is the best way to describe Phantom Ranch, built in 1922. A two room cabin with bathroom, cold sink and bunk beds would be our home for two days. The arrangement was boys in one room, girls in the other. The Canteen, dining and recreation building was right next door and the bath house was just down the trail. Not much more to ask for, especially with Bright Angel Creek running right behind our cabin and glorious views everywhere. Price of accommodations was shared by 10 people.