The train ride from Berlin to Prague served as an accurate foreshadowing of what we were to expect. Looking out the window, staring off into the forest, I immediately thought of Sleeping Beauty. Cheesy, I know, but the scene was startlingly reminiscent of my imaginative childhood. The sun went down and a full moon rose above the Elbe River, creating a mirror image of itself.

Sir Toby’s Hostel in located in Holešovice, a quaint area outside of the city center. We walked in and were greeted by the middle-aged owner of the hostel. I’m not sure if he was extremely kind or if it was just his British accent that made us feel comfortable and welcome. Either way, we were thrilled to be in Prague and even more thrilled to find that this hostel was more like an upper-class girls’ boarding school than a $15 per night hostel. Where was the stench of stale cigarettes and the broken metal lockers? Where were the wobbly bunk beds threatening us with mysterious stains and the possibility of bed bugs? Not here. Instead, we were led to our room and he showed us where to put our clothes – under our beds, in an antique-like rolling chest. He left us and I plopped myself on a vacant bed realizing that it was even more comfortable than my Simmons Beautyrest. The sheets and down comforter smelt of fabric softener; there was certainly no need for my sleeping bag at Sir Toby’s.

The pub downstairs has brick walls with low, arched ceilings; it was cool and cozy with dim yellow lighting. We got a couple of beers and sat at a long wooden table near some Australian travelers who were playing cards and exchanging travel tales. After a few beers we made our way back to our room. I’m quite sure that night I caught up on all the sleep of which I had been deprived at the sordid, loud, and uncomfortable hostels that had preceded this one.

After taking a hot shower in a clean bathroom we went back to the basement where we were the night before to find a magnificent breakfast layout – muffins, croissants, cheeses, meats, jam, Nutella, and best of all a massive coffee machine with buttons labeled "American Coffee," "Viennese Coffee," "Hot Chocolate," "Tea"… and the list went on. I couldn’t have been happier. We were rested, fed, caffeinated, and ready to explore Prague.

While staying at a nice hotel has never been a priority for me when traveling, I can’t say that it wasn’t incredible to stay at a hostel that made me so comfortable and welcome. To stay where beds were clean, people were friendly, and food was plentiful, especially after bouncing from seedy hostel to even seedier hostel was amazing. It’s the kind of place that feels so good to visit that even if I could afford to stay at a five star hotel, I would probably still choose to stay at Sir Toby's.

Sir Toby's might not be in the party district of Prague, but what it lacks in parties, it makes up in the rooms. I had a private room with a bathroom both times I stayed at the hostel. The rooms have some fantastic names; the rooms I stayed in were Morning Dew and Bueno. The rooms were clean, spacious, and comfortable. Sheets were included in the price and the showers are powerful and hot.

Smoking is not permitted in the rooms but the hostel does have a balcony for smoking. A communal kitchen equipped with crockery and cooking utensils is close to a cosy living room, which is situated in the basement. The hostel provides very detailed information leaflets when you arrive to help orientate you round Praha and a few helpful phrases. The reception staff can also help with buying tram tickets, looking up train times and generally helping as much as they can to make your stay welcome. There is free internet use in the lobby. Keys are used for the dorms and the front door, no curfew although guests are reminded to be quiet after 10pm. Key deposit was 200 kr, which is returned when checking out.

There are some great cake shops, supermarkets, and also a market, which sells most goods close by. You can get to the hostel from the main train station, by taking metro line C (red line), get off at VLTAVSKA, from outside the station take any tram to the left (1, 3, 14, 25), go two stops to Delnicka. Walk to the corner of Delnicka Street and turn left. The hostel is at number 24.

From Nadrazi Holesolvice (trains from Berlin, Vienna, others): Go through the tunnel to the street with the trams. Take the 12 or 14 to the left two stops. Get off at Delnicka and then turn right onto Delnicka street. The hostel is situated on the left across the road from a chicken restaurant.

I will certainly return to Sir Toby’s. If you have a big group, ask for the Bueno room, as it has four beds and is in the roof. Say hi to Gladimer and Wolf if you stop by :o)