Description: Face it: hotel rooms in London are expensive. Very expensive. If you want to find a room that costs less than $100 a night, you’re going to have to compromise on something. Reviews of inexpensive lodgings suggested they were inconveniently located, less than acceptably clean, frequented by a clientele given to partying in hallways at all hours of the night or with small, dated rooms and shared baths. Given these options, I decided I could live with a small room and shared bath over any of the others. That’s how I decided on the Edward Lear.
Location is the primary attraction of this small hotel, located two blocks from Marble Arch in two townhouses, one of which was briefly home to Edward Lear, 19th-century artist and author of nonsense poetry.
Another plus is the friendly hotel staff. They are uniformly pleasant and helpful; the women at the front desk especially so. I arrived hours before check-in time, but they found a room and invited me to take breakfast.
Rooms are spread over five floors, there is no elevator, the stairs grow increasingly narrow and winding as you go up, and you will likely porter your own bags.
Rooms on the top floors are very small. My first room, on the 4th-floor, measured about 48-square-feet, was smoky and faced the street, whose every noise I could hear. I stopped by the desk to see if I could move. Luckily, a room at the back was available beginning the next day. It was on the 1st (US 2nd) floor, was a bit larger, and not smoky.
The décor is strictly 1950s floral, the carpets are threadbare, and spotted in places. However, both rooms were quite clean, cigarette odor notwithstanding.
The hotel’s plumbing layout is rather odd. Each room had a sink; the toilet and shower were down the hall in separate rooms. Although I had some reservations about sharing a bath, I only once had to wait to use the facilities, which, like the rooms, were clean but dated.
The hotel’s clientele was a mixed bag of families and couples, with a few singles thrown in. Nationalities represented were American, French and German, in addition to English and Irish guests. By 11pm, most guests were settled in and a hush fell over the place, allowing for a good night’s rest after a busy day.
A full English breakfast is included, and the hotel’s website isn’t kidding when it says they aim to fill you up. Cooked to order items included eggs (2 fried or about 4 scrambled), wonderful English bacon, sausages, warmed plum tomatoes (not grilled, alas), beans, and toast. You could help yourself to cold breakfast cereals, apple, orange and grapefruit juice and really good coffee.
I’ve stayed in fancier hotels, but I’ve also stayed in worse. When it comes to value, I’d say the Edward Lear is near the top of my list.
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