This Renaissance Hotel uses the former Milwaukee Road train station as the foundation of a hotel complex serving the riverfront area. The station filled the block bounded by Washington, South 2nd Street, 3rd Avenue and 5th Avenue, two blocks off the Mississippi, between the traditional ‘downtown’ and the former milling district, now revived by the Guthrie’s relocation to its industrial blue home on 2nd Street.
The entrance is off 3rd Avenue, with the registration desk just inside the door. Large B&W photos of the station’s details, apparently before its restoration, establish the railroad memorabilia theme that runs throughout the hotel. White plaster statues of 1940’s era rail passengers dot the first floor: soldiers kissing their sweethearts hello (or possibly good-bye), businessmen waiting for trains, couples holding their suitcases. Posters from the 100+ year history of the Milwaukee Road line the hallways, and an impressive 1950 wall-sized map of the American rail system received lengthy study from more than one guest.
The lobby is quite small. The bar is just past the lobby on the left, and its seating area around a large, glassed-in gas fireplace ends up serving as the first-floor seating area, which didn’t seem to bother the staff. The train shed extends down along Washington, whose front half is beautifully reconfigured as a ballroom. During our first evening, Herb Brooks’ Foundation was raising money for youth hockey behind the high wall of windows that run along Washington, leading to occasional sightings of Bobby Hull and my childhood idol Gordie Howe.
Five floors of rooms extend parallel to Washington Street. It’s a fair walk from the elevator to the most distant rooms, but they’re worth the walk. Small photos of old Milwaukee Road stations in Minnesota dot the walls, supplemented by a mild arts and crafts theme. Rooms have two queens or a king with a sofa bed, and the latter felt particularly spacious. Mission-style wooden desks teed out from the wall, with a built-in electronics panel that allows you to connect your camera, music player or video to the large LCD TV atop the dresser.
The exceedingly comfortable beds were topped with a featherbed. The rooms had the best light control I’ve ever seen, with Venetian blinds over the 5’ x 4’ window, which were then covered by a dark faux-leather shade that scrolls down from the top.
Several good restaurants are within walking distance, but it’s a 20-minute walk to Nicollet Mall and the shopping district. One of my kids and I made that trip to replace forgotten swimsuits and enjoy the neat indoor waterpark. This kid magnet extends the train theme, with a three-story slide and a large, colorful, train that erupts in water every 15 minutes or so. Our special weekend rate included four passes that were good each day of our stay, plus four tickets to the Mill City Museum down the street (otherwise $8 each). At $119/night that would have been a great deal anywhere, but especially here.