Description: On Bolivian Hotels and Counter-intuitivenessI have commented in the past on the incredible complexity of the Bolivian hotel rating system. It doesn’t help the traveler the fact that many hostels ("hostals" in Spanish) advertise themselves as better rated "hotels." The way to solve this confusion is to check the definition at the municipal permit that must be hung near every reception desk.
However, that’s not enough. A brand new hostel may be better than an old hotel. The bottom line is simple: ask looking for the room before paying for it, and check out that all appliances function properly. In Oruro, that is especially important regarding the hot water. During the winter, temperatures easily drop to minus 15 Celsius, and may even reach minus 20. Unluckily, ice is pretty useless for a shower.
Independent travelers may found that planning a trip in Bolivia is harder than simply checking out the hot water. In most countries, the capital and main financial and commercial centers are more expensive than the rest of the country. In Bolivia, these functions are all filled up by
La Paz. Yet, the twin cities of La Paz and
El Alto are the most inexpensive cities in the country. Accordingly, a single room at the International Park Hotel (IPH) costs 130 BOB per night (almost $19) while a better room in La Paz can be rented for $12. As in all similar local establishments, a breakfast was included in the price. In this case it was of the continental type.
International Park HotelCounter-intuitiveness doesn’t end at the pricing. Seldom would a city locate its most prominent and probably best hotel atop the main bus terminus; yet, this is the case in Oruro. The nine-storey International Park Hotel sits atop the crowded and busy terminus; the entrance is from the terminal second floor. That means crossing the passengers’ area every time the hotel is accessed. Noisy and crowded, it never provides a pretty sight. This awkward location makes some sense after realizing there is no international airport in the area and that buses are the main transport method on the Andean High Plateau.
Yet, the insignificant entrance is hard to spot and would probably be ignored by most people, unless they know what they are searching for. A blackboard advertising its 18 BOB four courses lunch is the telltale. An aquarium behind the hotel’s glass wall may lead the eye towards the stickers advertising the hotel’s entrance. Except for that, it could easily pass for any of the myriad shops selling travel snacks and souvenirs. Do they sell fish here? No, that’s the best hotel in town.
A large lobby welcomes the visitor; it is well isolated from the terminus, creating a positive impression. Near the squalid fish is the reception desk. In front of the desk is an elevator. The last are a rarity in Bolivia and are not part of most three star hotels; IPH won a few extra points also on this. Bolivians favor old fashioned decorations. Old pictures of the city – strictly black and white and prior to 1950 – are big hits, as are old maps showing the Big Bolivia. Upon independence, Bolivia was twice as big as it is now; over time it lost territory to all its neighbors. International Park Hotel chose two extra-sized maps for its lobby, which created opportunities for some geographical studies while waiting there.
I arrived with no reservations and found it no problem finding a room. Except for the carnival season, this is probably true during the whole year. After walking across long and dark corridors, I found the room. It was smallish, barely bigger than its double bed. Across the room from the door was a window. A cable television set was hung on the wall; I was forced to duck down in my way to the window. The window offered an excellent look of the city. Next to it was a small door leading to a basic bathroom, which included a hot shower.
Taking in account local limitations and location, IPH is a good value for its price, especially when rushing to a bus departing to the next destination.
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