Hungary: Debrecen

Far to the east of Hungary, Debrecen is a busy college town with a picturesque downtown area. While it doesn't offer much on its own tho entice visitors to travel all the way across the country, Debrecen does make for a nice rest stop for a few days before moving on to Romania or the Ukraine or as a base camp when exploring the nearby Hortobagy National Park and Lake Tisza region.

Quick Tips:

If you are planning on venturing into Romania or the Ukraine, make sure and get the appropriate visas in Budapest rather than in Deberecen.

Best Way To Get Around:

The modern tram system is both inexpensive and easy to navigate. If you stay at the Thermal Hotel in Nagyerdei Park you'll find that the line stops on the side of the hotel making it easy to get downtown.

Built in 1915 by Hungary's Olympic Gold Medalist Alfred Hajos, the Grand Hotel Aranybika has long been the premiere accomodation in eastern Hungary. While the 3 star wing that was constructed in the Soviet era appears rather bleak, the original 4 star wing has been beautifully restored and features a fabulous lobby and restaurant area. Both are naturally lit with large stained glass window ceilings. The rooms are somewhat simple for what was once a glorious hotel, but the affordable rates reflect the smaller sized spaces made available to guests.

The common areas had just undergone a renovation at the time of my visit and looked quite nice. A fitness area and swimming pool with jacuzzi and sauna are made available to all guests at no additional charge. Limited spa services are also avaliable either a la carte or as part of a weeklong wellness package. Banquet and meeting rooms are available and there are concierge services to assist guests with discovering the surrounding area.

Though it looks fairly Soviet in design from the outside the friendly staff of the Termal Hotel Debrecen Gyogyszallo welcomed us with Western warmth and professional courtesy. While there is no business center, the front desk staff was happy to let me use their office internet connection for no charge and kindly provided me with clear traveling directions into town. The rooms are somewhat simple and average in size, but clean and well-lit with outside light from the inner courtyard.

In the basement is a full service restaurant that features Hungarian specialities. The primary attraction to staying at the hotel it appears is to partake in the waters of the thermal spa on the ground floor. Check out my entry on the Debrecen Gyogyfurdo for more information.

This full service restaurant in the basement of the Termal Hotel Debrecen Gyogyszallo features Hungarian specialties at dinner, though many of the patrons appear to be at the hotel to partake in a spa week and stick to a less appetizing "spa diet." Our group certainly had our fill, beginning with Hortobagy pancakes. The local delicacy is a crepe stuffed with heavily smoked pork. Next up was eroleves furjtojossal, apparently a quail egg soup. It was popular with my dining companions, but somewhat salty in taste. Grilled duck breast strips were served as the main course, followed by a dessert of vanilla cream (think runny pudding) pancakes. It was a fairly ambitious meal and given a thumbs up by the majority of the assembled group.

While much of Hungary has remained largely Catholic through the years, Debrecen was a hotbed of Calvinist activity during the 16th century and continues to attract a lrge number of followers. Nagytemplom, or the Great Church, is a Neoclassical building with a fairly simple, clean interior. After the glitz and pomp of the Catholic churches throughout Europe it's somewhat refreshing, and certainly lends to the idea that it's a big, big, big church.

For an additional 70 forints, or about 40 cents, you can ascned the church's bell tower. It houses the Rakoczi Harang, Hungary's largest bell. Perhaps of more interest to the average visitor are the excellent views afforded of Debrecen and the surrounding area.

The Debrecen Gyogyfurdo, located in the lower levels of the Termal Hotel Debrecen Gyogyszallo, has been in operation since 1960, and a Communist era approach to service and efficiency is still in effect in this blockish building. The range of services are extensive including massage, mud packs, hydrotherapy, electrotherapy, even inexpensive dental work.

I opted for a simple fifteen minute massage, offered at a very reasonable eight dollars. However, the experience was not as relaxing as one would hope. I got lost in the maze-like complex, and asking for directions in English was not as easy as upstairs in the business hotel. When I did locate the massage area, there was no one there to meet me or the four other befuddled Europeans in bathrobes. When a masseuse did arrive she led me to one of the small rooms and in her best English instructed me to lay down.

I love a deep tissue massage and working those pesky knots out, but this lady was brutal from the get go. Though I appreciate her energy level, I was anxious for the fifteen minutes to conclude, and I was bruised the next evening. Another traveler in our group also braved the massage treatment and she seemed to be in worse condition than me the following day.

What I will recommend about the spa are the numerous thermal pools situated in a well lit room. Each was warmed to a different temperature, though all stemmed from the natural spring in the area. The water didn't smell as sulphurous as some of the spas in Budapest but I did make sure to rinse off afterwards after reading the waters are often used to cure "gynecological concerns." Yeesh!