Hungary: Budapest dining

With Budapest becoming a major European capital that attcacts a high number of Western tourists, it's not surprising that the number of quality restaurants around town have increased. There has been some experimenting the wildly popular fusion cuisine found throughout Europe and North America, though many high end restaurants still rely on traditional Hungarian recipes to satisfy their customers. In fact, some of the best places I visited on my recent trip to Hungary are historic Budapest eateries that have been restored to their former glory. While everyone has different tastes each of the following restaurants should have something to appeal to all tourists or residents who appreciate an experience in fine dining.

Quick Tips:

Many restaurants include a service charge on the bill in lieu of a tip, as European are notorious for not tipping. If one hasn't been added a 10% tip is considered generous and well appreciated.

Best Way To Get Around:

The subway system is cheap and efficient, and covers most of the Pest side of the city that would be of interest to tourists. Trains and busses supplement the subway routes so that you can get around town without having to resort to using wildly overpriced taxi cabs.

Perhaps the most famous restaurant in Budapest, Gundel has been a culinary institution since 1894. The elegant building that houses the Gundel restaurant captures the essence of the turn of the century, a time of Hungarian prosperity and great national pride. Whether dining among the many Hungarian masterpiece paintings and strolling Gypsy orchestra in the large A la Carte formal room downstairs, the majestic gilded walls and crystal chandeliers of the Queen Elizabeth ballroom up the marble staircase, or in one of the seven tastefully appointed private banquet rooms, it is apparent that no expense was spared in returning this cultural treasure to its former glory. Even without the world class food, Gundel offers a truly exceptional experience to its guests.

Then there's the food. Master chef Kalman Kalla playfully blends traditional Hungarian cuisine with nouvelle flourishes to great effect. Goose liver pate served with toasted onions and green, yellow and red peppers was accompanied by Gundel's own Tokaj Muskat wine from 1999. A cream of pumpkin soup garnished with roasted seeds was quickly followed by catfish wrapped in bacon, served on a bed of chestnut puree and sauerkraut baked together with a wine cream sauce. The main course was a hefty serving of the traditional chicken paprika served over egg dumplings.

Gundel's own dessert wine of 1993, Tokaj Aszu 5 Puttonyos, accompanied the now famous confection of klaszikus Gundel palacsinta, or Gundel's pancake. It's really more like a crepe, stuffed with hazlenut, cocoa, orange, raisin and other assorted goodies, topped with a rich chocolate sauce. All of Gundel's dishes are served on fine Zsolnay porcelain from Pecs with cobalt blue and gold trim. Less formal (and considerably less expensive) meals can be had at lunchtime in the restaurant's charming outdoor garden.

Housed in a Gothic building dating back to the 15th century, Alabardos magically transports its diners to the past with its unique, intimate environment. Guests are greeted with a welcome drink in the outdoor courtyard, adorned with medieval objects and decorative touches. The small indoor dining room seats only 36, which may account for the exemplary service. The gracious hosts were always attentive and upbeat, making our group feel particularly welcome in their restaurant. The guitarist who provided live music during our meal seemed as if he were attempting to learn new songs on the job, but otherwise the dining experience was without fault and entirely magical.

The meal began with a cold appetizer of smoked eel served with a tender carrot salad and horseradish cream. The lamb soup that followed was made with kohlrabi in the style of one Mora Ferencne. The main course of mallard duck was prepared with honey and rosemary, and was accompanied by roast potatoes and poached pears flavored with red wine and almonds. Dessert was small but delicious, two miniature éclairs stuffed with banana and adorned with a sparkling wine sabayon sauce.

This homespun family restaurant way up in the Buda hills caters to locals and makes for a nice respite from the buzz of the city. Tourists will also enjoy an excursion to Nancsi Neni for a chance to explore traditional Hungarian cuisine without all the fuss and creative flourish today's chefs feel is necessary to serve a "fine" meal. Like a meal at your grandmother's house, you won't go hungry at Nancsi Neni: the portions are ridiculously large, even for Hungarian standards.

Our dinner began with a carrot salad, which was quite similar to our American rendition of cole slaw. Aunt Manci's Favorite turned out to be a grilled chicken breast with grated apple and thick ementhal cheese baked on top. Additional baked apples and wild rice made for a filling meal. The dessert of curd dumplings is a specialty of the house, but I simply couldn’t enjoy or even endure the enormous fried ball of breaded cottage cheese, drenched with sour cream. There are a variety of other more tempting desserts to sample, but the large portions at Nancsi Neni may make dessert obsolete even for the sweet tooths in your group.

Tucked away in a business hotel in the heart of 'pest, the surprising Gambrinus offers high-end meals and incomparable service. I felt uncomfortable that I hadn't worn a tie as the servers' presentation and attentiveness was world-class. The only drawback is that, because of the hotel's low ceilings (typical of Europe), the room felt somewhat claustrophobic.

Gambrinus also has a reputation as a restaurant for gourmands, with its top-notch cuisine winning numerous awards and accolades. We sampled a very tasty cream of asparagus soup, followed by the country's noted fish: a filet of pike perch. The main course was a heavy and decadent pheasant stuffed with eternally popular goose liver. Hungarians cannot get enough of this rich delicacy, though it is (to this American, anyway) an acquired taste. Dessert consisted of a fluffy soufflé of raspberry and yoghurt cream.

Certainly the highlight of the meal for our entire group, however, was the extraordinary Gypsy music to which we were treated. In almost all of the fine establishments we dined at in Budapest, there was a small Gypsy orchestra playing at dinner time. But the three musicians who were situated near the head of our table truly outdid themselves with their virtuoso performance.

Karpatia carries on a tradition of over 120 years of fine dining. While the restaurant has experienced a number of changes in its lengthy history, Karpatia has always respected and warmly welcomed its guests and have provided first class meals that prompted many return visits. The current décor reflects the style of Hungary in the mid 1920's, when the Spolarich family purchased the restaurant.

Our meal consisted of three courses, starting with a duck soup flavored with white wine and saffron. Being adverse to red meat, I opted to pass on the young bull sirloin steak, but thoroughly enjoyed my substitute chicken prepared with creamed mushroom ragout and steamed vegetables. Dessert was a homemade poppy seed parfait laced with a rich cognac and sour cherry sauce.

Before meals, small groups may partake in a cocktail in one of the private reception areas adjoining the dining rooms. Akos Niklai, the current owner and caretaker of Karpatia, also runs the nearby art deco themed Premier Restaurant & Terrace, situated on the eternal Andrassy boulevard.

This fun restaurant is located directly across from the Opera House and it works hard to keep up the spirits of happy patrons who arrive fresh from a performance next door. Not only are the servers polite and quick to meet customers' demands, they also will sing an aria or two between the appetizer and main course.

Our consommé soup led to the main course of pork served in a potato and bread crumb "jacket." Served on top of mashed potatoes and vegetables it was a filling meal. The dessert was a crepe filled with hazelnut mousse and topped with an unusual plum chocolate sauce.

Art'otel's restaurant Chelsea matches the hotel's kooky design and spirit. Playful colors and wild decorative touches punctuate the oddity of having a glass elevator operate in the center of the dining space. Guest rooms open up to face the inner courtyard atrium that doubles as the dining room space, so you can catch unsuspecting guests in mid conversation before they become aware that everyone is trying to eavesdrop!

The food served on the domino inspired china ware is equally creative and quite good. We tried the spinach crusted goat cheese appetizer, which was pleasantly sharp and tangy. The consommé soup featured a matzoh like "wheat puff" that neither added to or distracted from the broth. The main course was grilled salmon served with roasted vegetables. And our nicely crafted dessert was a strawberry mousse torte that was popular with almost everyone in the group.