Bill in the Dominican Republic - PUERTO PLATA

Puerto Plata is perched along the northern shore of the Dominican Republic, facing the wrath of the Atlantic Ocean. The winds seem to howl off the ocean, creating some odd effects that are warm and cool at the same time. The effect is like a rush of air from an open freezer on a hot summer day.

The traffic can be quite aggressive at certain intersections, and the English-speaking tour guides are omnipresent around the main square, called Parque Luperon or just Parque Central. The park is the place to be if you need a taxi, an ice cream cone, or a souvenir to take home. The ochre-colored Iglesia de San Felipe lends some shade and a religious backbone to the south side of the square, which has a gazebo and some benches.

If you enjoyed this section, please take a look at my SANTO DOMINGO article.

Quick Tips:

Lined with almond and palm trees, the malecon is a bit ragged in the central part, good mainly for fishing or just hanging around. The scene is much more handsome at the peninsula where the Fuerte de San Felipe is stationed. The north winds blast the rocky shoreline with refreshingly salty ocean sprays.

The Amber Museum has a logo that looks suspiciously like that of the movie "Jurassic Park". The Dominican Republic is well known as an outlet for amber jewelry and souvenirs, which may include fossilized insects or plants. The colorful mercado consists of a few buildings that would not look out of place in Brasilia. The concrete buildings house many stalls selling fruits, foodstuffs, and locally produced clothing and souvenirs. It is fun to look around, but be aware that you will probably be approached by persistent tour guides and shopkeepers.

Best Way To Get Around:

I wound up taking a few cabs, as I was actually staying west of Puerto Plata in the Playa Cofresi area. If you are staying within the city, you will probably just walk around, since the central area is fairly compact. I even used the services of a "motoconcho", an informal taxi service with a motorcycle as the mode of transportation. Hang on, and bring your own helmet!

The Sun Village Beach Resort is a beautiful new property located along the shores of Playa Cofresi, about five kilometers west of Puerto Plata. Most guests here book all-inclusive packages, where you get three meals a day and beverages while sporting a colorful wristband. Being the travelling renegade, I booked a room-only reservation.

When checking in, I was handed a folder containing a site map, activities program calendar, and cards for the door access and towel rental. A bellhop led me to my room, a bewildering downhill journey past pools, canopies, buildings, paths. I saw an older gentleman being led about by his two struggling family members; someone with so little mobility should not be booked in one of the "lower" rooms.

My standard Garden Court room had colorful rattan furniture featuring a queen size bed, sofa, chairs, cable TV, mini-fridge, balcony. There is very cold air conditioning and a ceiling fan. The small bathroom had a sink and shower stall, and the toilet's water pressure tended to be low.

My favorite activity was strolling along the mile-long Cofresi Beach. Every morning, locals sweep up debris washed ashore from the Atlantic Ocean or deposited from the coconut trees overhead. The official line at the resort bans topless sunbathing. There are several pools on-property, including one geared for kids with a waterfall and water slide. Sporting activities include volleyball, water polo, pool table, nature walks, etc.

There are several restaurants on-site, with more to come in the near future. The Sun Village Theater, with a faux Roman style, is a nightly gathering point for guests. One night there was karaoke, while one night there was a surprisingly decent five-piece band playing danceable merengue and salsa music. The hotel staff is enormously friendly, and that rubs off on the guests. Since the resort is rather isolated, the staff does recommend a taxi if you go off-property. I walked along a local dirt road near the beach and was honked at by every passing vehicle.

Here are the minor quibbles that should be ironed out in due time. The front desk seems a little slow in bill discrepancies and the process of checking in and out. I was erroneously charged for the shuttle bus from the airport to the resort, and then I could not reserve a shuttle to the airport so I had to pay a few extra dollars for a taxi. One poor chap insisted that he did not make a call from his room (the cost was around a dollar), and he had to haggle vehemently to have it waived. A resort that strives to attain a certain stature in the tourism community tends to wash these tiny costs away with no problem whatsoever. One night there was a five-minute power outage. This probably tends to happen several times a week, as I recall returning to my room one day to see that the time on my room's digital clock was incorrect.

Located in the middle of town, Sam's Bar and Grill seems to be the Puerto Plata version of Cheers. This homey hangout is run by expats and attracts gringos from around the world. There is a rectangular bar area where you can sit right down, order a Presidente beer (the most popular local brew), and swap stories about traveling in the Dominican Republic. I happened upon a chap from Glasgow who was sporting the Rough Guide to the Dominican Republic (no foolin') and was off to search for good places for diving. I read the section about the Pico Isabel de Torres with keen interest, as I wanted to visit it the next day. The walls are filled with photos, posters and amusing caricatures of various famous and not-as famous people. There is a large world map pierced by hundreds of pins, representing the homelands of the backpacking clientele.

Sam's has a fair-sized menu of American-style food like burgers, sandwiches, pancakes, meat loaf, burritos. I wanted to show some local patriotism by ordering "la bandera", one of the national dishes of the Dominican Republic. The tasty and tender beef is marinated with green peppers and onions, and accompanied by white rice, beans, and a salad with cucumber, lettuce and tomato. The beans came in a small bowl and were very mild. There are also a few daily specials chalked upon a wallboard.

Promptly at 6 o'clock, Sam comes out and starts barking at passersby from the front door. Sam is a basset hound and the mascot of this place; there is even a small selection of souvenirs depicting the canine. Sam sat attentively next to me for awhile, hoping for a few scraps. Sam liked the rice better than the cucumber. Sam's feline friend (not credited in the name of the establishment) wandered out but did not bark or meow.

Sam's is apparently connected to the Hotel Castilla, but I unfortunately cannot make any recommendation for or against it. For what it is worth, the menu mentions that the Hotel Castilla was the first hotel in Puerto Plata when it opened in 1906. If you do stay there, at least you will have a built-in bar lounge with a smoky but friendly atmosphere.

El Provocon looks like a little chicken shack (which it what it is) in the center of Puerto Plata. However, the "pollo al carbon" cranked out here is quite tasty. You can watch the cook grill the chickens right before your eyes. The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating, and also does a brisk take-out business. Place your order at the counter and sit down at one of the fire engine red tables. The menu is pretty much limited to grilled chicken in various serving sizes. My half-chicken was not too greasy, not too dry, and you can tell it was grilled to bring out its flavor. You order a la carte, so I ordered a side of moro (brown rice with small beans) and a soft drink. There are other beverages like tall Presidente beers or orange juice that is supposed to be fresh. Other side orders include fried plantains.

The ambience of El Provocon is basically derived from the street scene passing by outside. This seems to be a very active street corner with screeching car traffic, blaring merengue music, teens in school uniforms all vying for attention. The restaurant was packed with locals at lunchtime; it is supposedly open 24 hours a day.

This innocent dive of a restaurant is located at the foot of the road that leads to the Teleferico. It has a basic daily special with your selection of one kind of meat (I chose chicken over pork and beef), rice (white or "moro" with beans), cole slaw, and a scrumptious slice of fried plantain for about US$3. The diner has indoor and outdoor seating, and it seemed that all the customers (including myself) walked in warm and sweaty and looking for something refreshing. The ambience is sterile yet comfortable at the same time, although a few pesky flies were buzzing around. I ordered a cold Pepsi, and the amiable hostess (who spoke some English) asked if I wanted any ice. Not today, the pop was cold enough.

One of the other hostesses handed me an unusual local fruit. It had the shape of a small pear, the dark purple skin of a plum, a pit about the size of a peach's pit, and a deceptively juicy white inside. It was soft and fuzzy, lightly sweet and refreshing. They say you should be careful with fruits, so I sliced my freebie fruit into wedges and did not eat the peel. The hostess playfully admonished me by saying that the entire fruit should be eaten, but I did not want to take the chance. Ironic, since this day was like a personal Fear Factor program, as I walked along a dusty highway, elevated in a dubious cable car thousands of feet in the air, and rode on the backseat of a speeding motoconcho without a helmet.

Coconuts is the buffet restaurant at EMI Sun Village Beach Resort, with serving times for breakfast, lunch and dinner. No reservations are required for dining here. Since I was on a room-only plan, I had to dine a la carte. I gave my room number to my particularly gracious host so that I could be billed for my meal. This is really a place to pig out, as the buffet contains salads, several warm entrees and vegetables, freshly sliced roast, made-to-order pasta, breads, and a dessert buffet with fresh fruits and little pastries. I arrived one night for a late dinner, and the spread was still well replenished. Soft drinks and liquor are included, and the servers are very generous in seeing that you have a full glass or two on hand. The food is not the greatest or most imaginative, but it is tasty and varied enough. Coconuts is a good place to pile it on after a stressful day of swimming or sunning. Since this is a buffet restaurant, the value of your meal depends on how much food and drink you can reasonably consume.

The restaurant setting is in what can be described as a large Caribbean gazebo. It is roofed but is open to the elements, allowing the pleasant breezes to cool you through and through. The lighting is dim and romantic, and the lack of biting insects is a big plus. The reggae music soundtrack is cool but seems more appropriate for Jamaica; how about some merengue?

There are several other restaurants at EMI Sun Village Beach Resort, with more to come in the near future. There are currently Thai and Dominican restaurants, but reservations are required to dine at these establishments. Of course, there are a couple of bars as well on-property.

The biggest question mark regarding my travels in Puerto Plata was whether the teleferico was functioning. I am glad to report that the teleferico was functioning, leading to what turned out to be my personal highlight in this region, my trip to the Reserva Cientifica Isabel de Torres. This is now a scientific reserve and a peaceful botanical garden.

The Pico (or Loma) Isabel de Torres is about one kilometer west of central Puerto Plata. The station house at the base of the teleferico is a bit of a hike from the main street level. The overzealous guide was quick to latch onto me as I approached the station house (which contains a cafeteria and restrooms). I finally shook him off when I refused to pay him 50 pesos for his "lunch". As it was, I was on top of the hill for about 3 hours, so the guide would have been starving if he wanted to wait for me to finish my tour. Use a guide if you wish, but feel free to refuse his services, since then you will be stuck with him when all you want to do is relax and enjoy the panoramic views and the colorful nature.

The entrance fee is 100 Dominican pesos, about 6 US dollars. You get to take one of two cable cars up, which glides along for about a ten-minute ride. There are supposedly some occasional delays with the cable cars, as I waited about 20 minutes for the return ride down, and the car was packed (probably overpacked) with people. If you are driving, you can take a paved road that leads to the top of the mountain. There is a parking lot at the top and the base of the road. I read that hiking up would take about four hours or so. Once you get to the top (about 2600 feet above sea level), you will probably notice the higher elevation because the cool breezes off the ocean feel quite chilly! Once you step away from the upper cable car station, the winds die down and you will (hopefully) be warmed by the sun. There is a tendency for rain clouds to veil the top of the mountain, but I was fortunate to arrive on a clear day. The panoramic views from the top are quite breathtaking. The top features a cafeteria and a souvenir shop. Yes, the curious domed structure with a welcoming Christ statue posing on top houses a few shops and fairly clean restrooms as well.

The botanical garden is extremely informal, as there is no signage whatsoever. There are quite a few paths to walk about and enjoy nature, but I consciously tried to remember various landmarks or to retrace my steps in order to avoid becoming lost. As a city boy, it is impressive to see such a variety of trees, flowers, birds, insects, butterflies, and one earthworm that had a "fight" with a twig of equal size.

The Fuerte de San Felipe sits majestically on a spit of land jutting into the Bay of Puerto Plata and the Atlantic Ocean. Its romantic setting contrasts with the varied history of the fort, which was built from 1541 to 1577 and stands as the oldest significant remnant in the city. An equestrian statue of General Gregorio Luperon stands tall as you approach this corner of the city.

The grassy lawn in front of the fort entrance will usually play host to a few vendors selling snacks, seashells, and assorted trinkets. There was a mule tied to a tree, apparently for photo opportunities. You may also meet a tour guide or two, but you really do not need one for visiting unless you like to have someone chattering about the local history. The admission is only 10 Dominican Republic pesos (less than one US dollar). Go to the roof lookout of the tower for splendid views of Puerto Plata, the Atlantic Ocean, and beyond. Try to avoid looking at the factories that are eyesores on the otherwise gorgeous shoreline. The green hills in the background vie with the passing clouds for your attention. The main level of the fort is partially reconstructed, although you can see the original interior moat and the coral that had clung onto its walls. A couple of corner sentry lookouts provide fine photo opportunities. The tower also contains a small museum of various wartime artifacts such as guns, artillery shells, and cannonballs ranging in size from marbles to bowling balls, displayed with the help of triangular pool ball racks. Old coins nd photos are also displayed, with minimal accompanying text in Spanish. One of the dungeon-like rooms served as the prison cell for Juan Pablo Duarte, a Dominican independence hero.

This can be a very quick tour if you want it to be. However, if you have the time to spare, try to linger about and enjoy the views and the quiet atmosphere. Save some time to walk around the outside of the fort. You will appreciate the stark solidity of the fort as it contrasts with the green pastures, the blue skies and pounding waves of the ocean. The grounds outside are prime areas for picnics, newspaper reading, or just lazing around. The prevalent north winds off the Atlantic Ocean create an appreciated cooling effect, although I found myself repeatedly wiping salty ocean droplets from my sunglasses. The trees seem to be growing horizontally because of these strong winds.

This heavenly outpost is a good spot to escape from the hubbub of the Parque Luperon, as it is just along the north side of the square. It has the clean welcoming appearance of an old-fashioned soda fountain shop. There is a video game on premises; otherwise you provide your own entertainment or your own group of buddies to chat with. There is also a money exchange booth in case you cannot afford to buy a dessert. The prices are not dirt-cheap, but they are not that expensive either

I ordered a slushie, with two cool flavors available: strawberry and pina colada. My strawberry slushie was devilishly refreshing but did not induce the side effect of brain freeze. Later that day, I ducked in to have a creamy and lightly sweet serving of coconut ice cream. A counter also stocks a small selection of pastries, baguettes and pizza slices. I had a small muffin with chocolate chips to go, and it was not too bad.