Bill in the Dominican Republic - SANTO DOMINGO

Santo Domingo is regarded as the first European settlement in the New World thanks to Christopher Columbus and his relatives. Some parts of Santo Domingo will certainly feel like a “new world” to travelers who are accustomed to visiting more tourism - friendly places in Europe or North America. With about 2.5 million people, Santo Domingo is regarded as the fastest growing city in the Western Hemisphere, which is not necessarily a good thing.

Despite the urban sprawl, the city does have a bunch of lush parks and gardens, which makes sense in such a tropical climate. There is a nice botanical garden, zoo, and long narrow parks just north of the Caribbean Sea. The strange landmark "Faro a Colon" (Lighthouse to Columbus) is a huge memorial museum to Christopher Columbus located in the Parque Mirador del Este. It can be seen for miles, and when conditions are favorable the building beams a giant light in the shape of a cross into the sky. There is a mausoleum for Columbus in the building, but the world is not convinced that it houses the great explorer's remains.

The glory of Santo Domingo is the historical Zona Colonial district. If you have time to do one thing, spend a few hours wandering here!

If you enjoyed this section, please take a look at my PUERTO PLATA article.

Quick Tips:

Unless you have a good amount of time to spend in Santo Domingo, you may wind up doing a whirlwind tour of the Zona Colonial, the oldest and most historic area of the city. This district is contained within an approximate radius of 12 walkable blocks, and there is a three-story limit to any buildings within it in order to preserve its charming architectural integrity. There are many interesting houses, chapels and museums, but time constraints may limit you to only passing glances. If your time is limited (as mine was), just try to stare at a good map and focus on looking at a few sights, while making a note to take a peek at secondary places along the way. Do not try to cram too much into your schedule, as that will drain you and prevent you from enjoying the pleasant ambience of the area.

Best Way To Get Around:

Public buses called publicos or gua-guas run up and down the main avenues of Santo Domingo, but they may not be the best mode of transit for the squeamish. Walking is the most enjoyable way to get around along the malecon or within the pedestrian areas of the Zona Colonial or El Conde, as within these areas you will not have to dodge the formidable traffic. Be prepared for constant pestering by tour guides, shopkeepers, shoeshine boys, and curious locals. If all else fails, taxis are plentiful and the drivers are very very anxious to do business with you. Note that the taxis do not have meters, so agree on a price with the cabbie before you commit yourself by stepping in.

The Renaissance Jaragua is one of the "murderer's row" of top-notch resort hotels situated along the "malecon" of Santo Domingo and about a mile west of Zona Colonial (the other resorts are the Melia and the V Centenario InterContinental). It is interesting to think of this hotel (part of the worldwide Marriott chain) as a contemporary walled city in comparison to the original walled city of the Zona Colonial. The grounds are attractive and substantial, with a pool and gym. The friendly and English-speaking staff does tend to discourage guests from walking outside the "walls", as they recommend taking a cab for everything. While the Caribbean Sea is just across the road, the hotel is a fair distance from the Zona Colonial and other sites, walking distance for some but not for others. On the other hand, the malecon (otherwise known as the eight-kilometer stretch of the Avenida George Washington bordering the sea) is a lively stretch day or night. Locals jog or fish during the breezy and sunny mornings, while at night the party atmosphere is sometimes so seductive that the malecon has even acquired the nickname "world's largest disco" from the Guiness Book of World Records. The Renaissance features several popular restaurants, a disco and a casino as well. The main floor also has meeting rooms and the all-important ATM or "banco automatico".

The elevator lobby on each floor has a window with a stunning panorama of the Caribbean, making the mundane task of changing levels a pleasurable experience. The Renaissance is one of the largest properties in the country, so the bright hallways are rather extensive. My comfortable standard room faced east, with a view of the hulking Faro a Colon (is this a plus or a minus?), the Caribbean Sea, and the surrounding city. The large picture window actually slides opens about 3 inches, just enough to stick out your camera for a photo. The room itself was spacious and had a typically contemporary design, with a king bed, writing table and a cushy chair and ottomon ensemble. I did find the bathroom a bit tight, but the Renaissance does feature the popular Bath and Body Works product line. There is a mirrored closet with a handy in-room safe, and there is a stocked mini-bar beneath the large television set.

The philosophical question of whether one should stay in a resort such as the Renaissance is a matter of your personal tastes. Most backpacker types would probably dread staying at a place like this, as you are isolated from the rest of the city and surrounded by plush amenities that are geared to pamper the globetrotting businessman. However, the Renaissance is certainly good at what it does and is recommended if you want a more sophisticated place to stay and play, what with hot nightlife within the premises and also down the malecon.

This quaint restaurant is located about a block away from the malecon (Avenida George Washington) and around a long corner from the Renaissance Jaragua hotel. The relaxed inside ambience features exposed wood beams, framed prints, and piped-in music. You can also dine outdoors on the porch, but you will have to listen to the traffic buzzing by the malecon.

The menu features creole cuisine, with goat being a favorite meat for many Dominicans. The menu also features soups, salads and seafood dishes. I dined on goat in wine sauce; it was tasty but a little fatty. I had the impression that the restaurant's refrigeration was on the fritz, because they were unable to serve me any lemonade or any desserts. Perhaps this was a result of the all-night rainstorm in the city? The restaurant looked clean enough upon casual inspection. You can probably get similar quality food elsewhere in cheaper restaurants or roadside stalls, but you will have to consider that their cleanliness level may not be that high.

A local institution is the Casa de la Dulces, located at the western edge of the Zona Colonial. This is a popular place to go if you want to get a selection of traditional Dominican sweets, or if you are just a bit curious about what they look like. You will see colorful and unusual treats that you probably have never seen before. The labeling and pricing on the items is very sparse or nonexistent, so you will have to depend on your visual instincts, or ask an employee about the ingredients.

The typical slab of "dulce" has the consistency of white fudge, but with a tooth-loosening level of sweetness. The dulce slabs usually have preserved fruit mixed in, such as orange or pineapple. I bought a round ball of something that looked like a small preserved orange. When I unwrapped the cellophane of the package, the "peel" was actually a candied concoction made from orange peel and caramel, kind of like a Dominican fruit roll-up. Within the peel was a thick cream that tasted like extremely condensed milk. This was all very rich and delicious, but very very sweet! I could not finish this orange cream ball in one sitting because of its richness.

If you want to try something a little lighter, there are various cookies on display such as coconut macaroons. The store also sells raw ingredients that you can use to make your own goodies. You can also purchase locally produced rum, a specialty of the Dominican Republic, along with other drinks.

This oasis of culture and higher learning is located about a mile north of the malecon and west of the Zona Colonial within the residential Gazcue district. There are four museums (Museo de Arte Moderno, Museo del Hombre Dominicano, Museo Nacional de Historia Natural, Museo Nacional de Historia y Geografia) plus the National Library and the National Theater. The buildings all have a grandiose, modern look to them, but they seemed a bit out of place in contrast with the residential areas surrounding the plaza. The paving of the plaza was rough and very erratic, as if there was quite a bit of reconstruction to be done but not the funds or manpower to accomplish it. I found the campus to be surprisingly devoid of activity considering the supposed stature of such a complex.

The Museo de Arte Moderno features artists of the Dominican Republic from the 20th century. The building itself is a rather bleak piece of brutalist architecture, but it houses a mildly interesting art collection by artists from the Dominican Republic, as well as Spain and elsewhere in Latin America. There were some paintings standing at the bases of walls; apparently I happened upon the museum in between exhibitions. I found the collection of sculptures displayed outside in the plaza to be more appealing, including one that is incorporated in a public fountain.

Critics generally regard the Museo del Hombre Dominicano to be one of the best museums in the Dominican Republic, but time restrictions prevented me from visiting it and the other museums within the campus. I took a peek inside the National Library, but only the lobby was open for inspection during this particular Saturday afternoon.

The large fortress of Santo Domingo's Zona Colonial, the oldest and original part of the city, is an interesting oasis of tranquility turned inward from the big city. Also called the Fortaleza de Santo Domingo, the fort is bordered by the Ozama River and the cobblestoned Calle de las Damas, the oldest and most historic road in the city. Dating from 1502, the fort is the oldest military complex in the Americas. The peaceful atmosphere is a marked contrast to what it was in its heyday, as from this strategic site Spain launched numerous expeditions to Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the North American mainland.

The fort has been tidied up and open to the public since the 1960's. You enter the complex through the dramatic Gate of Carlos III. The admission fee is less than a dollar, although you may be greeted by a tour guide who would like to give you a personal tour of the grounds for an additional fee. As usual, I like to tour a place solo if I can help it. Upon admission, you will get a little pamphlet (in Spanish only) with a nice site map and some historical information.

The Torre de Homenaje is a blocky medieval tower that is the most prominent structure of the fort. Its style is reminiscent of that of some countryside castles in Spain. The sturdy walls have a solid six feet thickness, as this tower was used as a prison. Climb up the stairs that lead you to the roof of the tower, from which you get some splendid views of Santo Domingo's surrounding landmarks and the Caribbean Sea. Note that you can go up the dark spiral stair inside, but a safer and more comfortable climb is via the exterior masonry stairs.

The fort also contains the Fuerte de Santiago (16th century) and the blocky powder house (18th century). The grounds are well maintained, and it is quite enjoyable to stroll about the walkways and lawns or relax on one of the benches. If you have the time, linger within the walls and stick around for the sunset.

The Parque Colon (Colon is in Spanish, Colombo is in Italian, and of course Columbus is in English) is perhaps the most famous plaza in the Zona Colonial. It is an attractive square surrounded by historical colonial and Victorian-style buildings. The main Catedral forms the south boundary of the square. The town hall, dating from the 19th century, faces the west side of the plaza. The significance and central location of the park are magnified by the proximity of a tourist office, post office, tobacco emporium, not to mention a lively assortment of restaurants and shops. There is the presence of tourist police officers to create a sense of security for travelers, while the ever-present tour guides are very anxious to pass their collective historical knowledge to you (for a reasonable fee, of course). The tour guides always sense my reluctance, as they are quick to flash their official glossy government badges establishing them as honest-to-goodness tourism ambassadors. If you feel like you need a helping hand, by all means employ one of these gentlemen but negotiate a fee first. A reverential statue of Christopher Columbus stands as the centerpiece of the plaza; apparently being a statue or a tree is the only way to avoid drawing too much attention from a tour guide.

The Basilica Catedral Santa Maria de la Encarnacion (otherwise labeled the Catedral Primeda de America, or just simply the Catedral) is the oldest cathedral in North America, depending on what the exact definition of "oldest" is. The cornerstone was laid in 1514, with construction proceeding grudgingly from 1520 onwards. The Catedral has a very eclectic design style with evolving Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque and other influences. The interior has a nice vaulted ceiling and fourteen chapels along the aisles. Be aware that shorts and other informal garb are generally frowned upon. There is a very peaceful courtyard adjacent to the south entrance. A series of peculiar howling wolf gargoyles guard the grounds along the east facade of the Catedral.

The pedestrian-only Calle El Conde connects the Parque Colon from the east with the Parque Independencia to the west. This is an enjoyable mile-long stroll, as there is no traffic down this street. Calle El Conde is fronted by a motley selection of cafes, fast food stops, shops and so forth. If you really need a cheap "pica pollo" fix, why not try a local chain like Pollo Rey over an international conglomerate like KFC (both are on El Conde)? You will encounter a colorful mix of street musicians, vendors, and see tourists being led about by tour guides (or perhaps you are one of these tourists!). In a way, Calle El Conde is the inland version of the malecon, which runs parallel just a few blocks south. If pressed for time, try to do a loop by walking up El Conde in one direction and going down the malecon in the opposite direction.

The Zona Colonial is by far the most interesting and most historic area in all of Santo Domingo. Wandering about the twelve-block radius, you will see a variety of masonry houses, churches and museums mixed in with contemporary shops and dining establishments. There are just too many items of merit to mention here, but here are a few of the more prominent landmarks.

The cobblestoned Calle de las Damas is the oldest and most historic street, dating from 1502. The pedestrian-only street is charming as it meets landmarks like the Fortaleza Ozama, Panteon Nacional, Museo de las Casas Reales, the Royal Sundial, and the Casa de Francia.

The Panteon Nacional was originally designed in 1747 as a Jesuit convent. This building also has been used as a theater and a tobacco warehouse. It was converted to become the National Mausoleum in 1955 to house the remains of revered political and military figures whose actions have shaped the history and scope of the Dominican Republic. Their remains are sealed within a set of marble walls. In the midst of a lonely but sunny Sunday morning, this is an appropriate time to pay your respects to these local heroes within the dark but reverential interior, although they are just a bunch of names if you are not familiar with the history of the Dominican Republic.

The recently renovated Plaza de la Hispanidad is an open and colorful area bordered by Las Atarazanas, a row of little shops and cafes. This area was the first commercial center in the Americas, and is still a hub of activity today. The Alcazar de Colon, the former colonial palace of the Columbus family, is now a well-regarded museum displaying period furniture and decorations. The building was originally built in 1510, but has been drastically restored over the years. Even if you do not formally visit the museum, take a walk around it because of its fabulous location over the old city walls.

Are you looking for ruins? The ruins of the Hospital San Nicolas de Bari are interesting, as long as you are aware of the pigeon population, the dreary parking lot adjacent to the site, and a few charming beggars wandering outside the nearby Our Lady of Altagracia church. Just up the hill are the ruins of the Monasterio de San Francisco, which has a history as an insane asylum. This latter set of ruins is a little quieter and more attractive to this visitor. Both of these sets of ruins date from the early 16th century, and both have met similar fates due to a variety of earthquakes, hurricanes, and foreign invasions.