Malaga - gateway to Andalucia

Near to Malaga are the pleasant town of Alora, Antequera with its wonderful Torcal and El Chorral, the gorge to the left of the railway on the way to Bobadilla.

Not too far away are Ronda with the magnificent countryside around it and Gibraltar.

Further but still accessible are the major cities of Cordoba, Cadiz, Granada, Jaen and Sevilla.

Well away but accessible by bus are Jaen, Baeza, Ubeda, and Cazorla with its splendid Sierra.

Then Malaga itself with its excellent market and its Alcazaba is worth some of your time - often easily tied in to the final night's stay before a morning flight out.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Here I concentrate on getting away from the airport by the train which runs from Fuengirola to a subway station in the middle of Malaga.

There are two levels at which one can leave the airport. Take the lift or walk to the upper level. On going out of the airport yurn to your right and keep alongside the airport buildings. You wll come onto a path that swings away left over carparks to the station. The near side is for Torremolinos and Fuengirola, the far side for Malaga. Get out at Malaga Renfe if you want the train or the bus station, or continue to the Alameda terminus if you want the centre of the city. If you get out at Malaga Renfe you go up some steps and come out at the side of the main train station. If you want the bus station do not take a taxi - it is very close but some have traveled a long way by cab to get there! Go into the station and turn right to get to the exit at the far side then turn left. The bus station is at the end - straight ahead.

This is very basic accommodation but very useful and cheap for one night. There is a lift, fortunately because part of the hostal is on the fourth floor. Beds are comfortable and there is adequate space. Bathrooms are shared. Of luxuries there are none at all.

Getting out in the morning involves the use of three keys if you are going early and the last one has to be thrown in from the pavement.

English is one of the luxuries! There is none! But it is safe, very central, and very cheap. I have stayed there three times and shall probably try to again but my recommendation means for one night or it would fall a level.

This would seem to be practically the only accommodation in Alora, which is a pleasant big village or small town on the rail route from Malaga to Bobadilla - not all trains stop.

It provides a good alternative for the first or last night to stopping in Málaga itself if you are using the airport. It is also on Los Amarillos or Ferón-Coín bus routes to Ronda.

For its price it is a knock-out - en-suite rooms with good facilities, good meals at reasonable prices - what more could be wanted. The town/village itself is picturesque with a ruined castle and there are lemon and orange trees in the vicinity.

All in all this is worth a stop.

No snags? Oh yes; the ascent from the station is very steep and it is worth a cab if possible if you have heavy luggage. I was OK then but would need one now!

When I went there was practically nothing except natural scenery, unless you include waymarks on the rocks. I think there was one house in sight. I have a nasty feeling that it might be a bit more commercialised now but they will not have taken away the wonderful rock formations.

Torcal is a generic name meaning something close to Tor in English; i.e. rocky outcrop. This gives little idea of the volume and magical beauty of the rocks on the mountain top.

If you are in any doubt which coloured marks to follow, let me resolve it for you. Do both - or all if there are more now.

By both I mean yellow and red. They are very different but both are the route to seeing fabulous shapes and views.

I have been twice and the first time was perfect visibility. Unfortunately I can only find photos from the second occasion! I am sure mountain purists will look down on me but it is a long way and I used a taxi to get there. Doing so enabled me to follow all the waymarks and to walk back to Antequera without feeling rushed and to get down before it was dark.

Apart from its Torcal, which is covered separately, the town itself is well worth seeing and justifies a stop.

I shall not be submitting an acommodation entry, only because I have forgotten the name of the excellent pensio opposite to the market, but I will say a bit about it here. When I first stayed there were only shared bathrooms but last time my friend and I shared a twin room with comfortable beds, plenty of space and an excellent shower in the en-suite room. Meals are served in the evening. They are remarkably cheap and very basic I suppose but I have always been well satisfied and I have never enjoyed hake [merluza] more anywhere.

There is a ruined castle at the top of the town, accessed via a park and a great place it is for a picnic. Then there are several fine churches which merit a look. The greatest pride of the town, though is a group of three high quality dolmens just outside on the main road - quite close together. Like Alora it can often be a useful place for a first or last night as there is a god bus service to Malaga but it also makes a good centre for the train to Granada, Cordoba or Ronda -and on to Algeciras and Gibraltar.

To deal with getting there first. It is just about possible to think of it as a day trip from Malaga - by bus - but the Alhambra needs a fair bit of time and I think a stop is much better. Opinions of Granada other than the Alhambra are sharply polarised and I come out firmly on the side of those who dislke it. I can not see myself spending more than one night at a time but I would willingly do that many times in order to see the Alhambra. This is a short and uphill walk from the Plaza Real. The plaza is reached by bus from the train or bus stations which are not close to each other.

Again, I cannot remember the name of the place where I stayed but it was on the right side of the road up to the Alhambra from the Plaza Real. Cheapness and location are its virtues and there is quite a bit of choice.

Tickets to the Alhambra are in three parts for the Alcazaba [fortress], the main Mooriish Palace and the Generalife, the summer house at the top of water gardens which are a treat even in December. The main part has to be entered at a time permitted by the ticket so it is well worth while to book in advance, though I have to confess I never did so. People say that it justifies a full day. I guess I am not made right. I think it is one of Europe's really terrific places but I have never stayed anywhere all day. It certainly whiles away several hours and I have been back twice and would go another three times willingly.

Other places try to claim parity but in its field I find it easily the best. It is not possible to convey the grace of its architecture by words and even photos fail to do it justice. If you have not been, go and if you have not been recently, go again.