Bronx Adventures

When many people think of The Bronx, intimidating news footage of AK-47s and burned out buildings come to mind. But The Bronx has much to offer besides lessons in urban neglect. And let's face it, if you live in Manhattan, there are times when an island 3 x 11 miles supporting the existence of millions of people becomes nerve-wrackingly claustrophobic. That's when it's time to get on the train and get out the map. Among other wonders, our northern borough is the home of the sprawling New York Botanical Gardens, a Little Italy that puts Manhattan's to shame, a very cool island that looks more like New England than New York, and historic buildings that retain more of their grounds that what you generally find in New York. You might find an adventure or two, also, which is why that map is handy. I had a moment in Pelham Bay Park in which paranoia and a sinking sun convinced me that I was about to become a statistic. But despite these little hitches, I recommend checking it out. A little common sense (more than I have) goes a long way.

Quick Tips:

Unless you're going to a place known to be safe in daylight hours, like the Botanical Gardens, take a friend. And do not necessarily believe the guidebooks that tell you that certain historic sites are 'a modest walk from the subway' or 'a short taxi ride' away. You might not find a taxi and I'm convinced the people that write the guidebooks have a different definition than I do of what constitutes a modest walk.

Best Way To Get Around:

As I said, relying on taxis is dodgy business if you don't know where you are. Start out with places that are easily accessible by bus and subway, and then when you get to know the neighborhoods a bit, you can venture around on foot.

The Black Whale is all charm. If the weather's nice, grab a seat in the brick-paved patio, decorated with caladium-filled birdbaths and an unlikely bust of JFK and a few headstones. Very inviting.

For an appetizer, we had the grilled scallops, which were fat and very tasty--they come served on a bed of fresh greens. For the main course I had the lobster tortilla, which was so-so, but my friend Aaron was smart and got the crabcakes--delicately sauteed, light on the breading and heavy on the crab. Absolutely delicious.

A lot of New Yorkers don't even know about this fascinating little community. If you're looking for a break from the city on a Saturday afternoon, you couldn't pick a nicer spot. City Island is located at the edge of NYC just beyond Pelham Bay Park in the Long Island Sound. It feels like you're in New England walking around here--lots of quaint houses and shingled roofs. Rich with nautical history, you'll find a great selection of seafood restaurants on the island, some of which have great views of the water. Lots of funky little curio and antique shops dot the island, featuring prices that beat the heck out of Manhattan.

To get to City Island by subway, take the 6 train to the last stop, Pelham Bay Park, then switch to a City bus. The trip is surprising painless.