Footloose Family in London

See London from atop a double-decker bus, winding through charming parts of the city out to the suburbs and back. Browse through antiquarian booksellers off Charing Cross Road. Take in a Gilbert & Sullivan operetta performed by the D'Oyly Carte opera company at the Savoy Theatre. Get a panoramic view of London from the London Eye, then walk across Westminster Bridge and wait for Big Ben to chime. Feed the birds in St. James' Park. Walk like an Egyptian at the British Museum. Explore the quirky private collection of Sir John Soane at the museum in his former home. For thrills, climb into a bungee jumping harness to bounce and soar on a bungee trampoline along the waterfront. Take in the action at the Trocadero, an enormous entertainment complex with floor after floor of arcades and excitement.

Quick Tips:

An equitable way for a family to travel is for each person to make a short list of things each wants to do, then devise a scheme of how to see as many as possible in the most efficient way. For example, we followed a trip to the British Museum (my son's choice) with a stroll through the antiquarian bookstores nearby (my husband's priority).

Taking a successful trip with a child requires some planning, but it's worth it. Take into consideration the child's interests. For example, our son had just done a school report on hieroglyphics, so he was ripe for a trip to the British Museum. He'd also just enjoyed performing in a school play, so we went to the theatre. Kids also get a big kick out of just taking different kinds of transportation around London.

To prepare for a trip, we recommend the Eyewitness Travel Guide to London. This guide is especially appealing to children as it's loaded with appealing photos and charts. Here at IgoUgo, guides Amanda and actonsteve give some great tips on seeing their home city. It's also well worth taking a virtual visit at the Explore London website.

Best Way To Get Around:

By all means, if you can, don't miss the chance to stroll through as much of London as time and your feet permit. We had only two days, but were especially glad to have spent some time roaming around Russell Square and its environs, exploring little alleyways and peering through the gates of private parks. We enjoyed spotting blue plaques on the doorways of the houses with details of who had lived there and when. When we were tired or pressed for time, however, we took the tube or bus. For a special treat, flag down a traditional London black cab.

This large (over 1000-room) tourist-class hotel is in a good central location. To be honest, I'd never stayed in one of the big London hotels before, having always stayed in small hotels and B&B's, but our hotel came free as part of a British Airways flight package, so we selected from the hotels they offered. The Royal National sits smack in the center of Bloomsbury, only a few blocks away from the British Museum. The location makes it a great base for touring central London.

Our triple room was quite pleasant, with comfortable beds, a spacious bathroom, coffee & tea maker, and more space than we had expected. The room appeared to have been recently refurbished, too. We found our room reasonably quiet, though there weren't many people staying on our floor and that might change during high season.

Getting to the hotel from Heathrow is a breeze as the Russell Street tube station is on the Picadilly Line which runs straight from Heathrow. Exiting the Russell Square tube station, turn left and then take the first street to the right and you'll see the hotel.

The hotel staff were helpful, for the most part, though they were stretched a bit thin in the breakfast room in the morning. A continental breakfast was included, but it was nothing special.

"Come on, Mom!" My eleven year old tugged impatiently at my arm as we ambled at parental pace through the awe-inspiring open space of the Great Court of the British Museum. His impatience was pardonable, given how much time he’d already spent studying and preparing reports on ancient Egypt for school. Now here he was primed to see the Rosetta stone, mummies, hieroglyphs, and all things Egyptian. The British Museum, which houses one of the best collections of Egyptian artifacts outside Cairo, was the perfect place to take him.

The scope of the Egyptian collection at the British Museum is impressive – spanning over five thousand years, from the pre-dynastic period through the millennia of dynasties, then through the Roman and Coptic periods, and onward through the Ottoman conquest of Egypt. It includes monumental statues, sarcophagi, hieroglyphic tablets, jewelry, household objects, scarabs, shabti, and, of course, mummies. It’s hard to imagine, touring the Egyptian collection today (it contains more than 100,000 objects), that it all began with about 150 small and poorly-understood pieces collected by Sir Hans Sloane, one of the 18th century’s great English "gentlemen collectors." Sloane’s private library and diverse collection later became the foundation of the Museum’s collection when it was established in 1753.

None of these facts, however, impressed my son. The Rosetta stone was first on his "to see" list, and we soon found ourselves standing before it. What would have happened, I wondered, if Bonaparte hadn’t invaded Egypt in 1798, setting up an institute in Cairo to collect and study antiquities? It was the later seizure of this French horde in 1801 by the victorious British that ushered in the golden age of Egyptology.

Today, visitors can choose from free "Eyeopener" tours of the museum (check the daily tour schedule), audio tours, or simply take advantage of the information posted in the museum. Since the Museum is vast, I’d recommend focussing on a particular area of interest – as we did with the Egyptian collection.

The Museum caters to children, not only in providing special tours and events at the Museum, but also in a broader educational sense. We did a great deal of "cyber visiting" at the Museum’s wonderful Ancient Egypt interactive learning site. Exploring this site will give any child of elementary or middle school age a lively introduction to Egypt and enhance his or her trip to the Museum.

In fact, as we entered a room with funerary objects, I began to appreciate just how well prepared my son was. "Look, shabtis!" he exclaimed, pointing to the small statues that are buried in a tomb to serve as servants in the afterlife. Later, we stood before an elaborate sarcophagus, deciphering drawings and hieroglyphs: here was the symbol for Ma’at, goddess of justice; there was Anubis, weighing the heart of the deceased against Ma’at’s feather.

This, I reflected, was the best part of visiting a museum: kindling ancient enthusiasms in modern hearts.

Tenacity pays off. On a prior London visit, I had briefly visited Sir John Soane’s Museum off Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Regrettably, I’d come shortly before closing time, so I enjoyed only a cursory visit. What I saw, though, made me determined to come back.

"It’s my turn to pick!" I announced after my husband and son had each chosen a place to visit in London. Neither seemed particularly enthusiastic about seeing Soane’s Museum, which made their later unfeigned delight all the sweeter.

Soane, son of a bricklayer, rose to become one of England’s greatest architects and a professor of architecture at the Royal Academy, with connections to an astonishing number of the prominent people of his time. An avid collector, his museum houses the objects he assembled for his own pleasure and the edification of his students. It provides a fascinating look at one individual’s taste as well as a window into another era, for in 1833 by Act of Parliament, Soane’s house was established as a public museum, with the stipulation that as little as possible be changed.

You know that "Star Trek" episode in which the crew passes through a time portal? That’s the feeling you get when you step through the museum door and into a narrow passageway, where a green-coated staff member welcomes you and asks you to sign the guest book. Entry into the museum is free, though the museum pamphlet is well worth £1.

Soane set about in a deliberate manner to put together the museum, though it might seem to the casual visitor that there is little method to the labyrinth of rooms and passageways. I was struck on my first visit by what seemed like the haphazard arrangement of disparate objects; on this second tour, I began to grasp that in fact Soane had been aiming for pleasing contrasts, sympathetic placements, and, above all, an effect.

Must-see items in the museum include the Picture Gallery, with Hogarth’s famous "Rake’s Progress" series, the sarcophagus of Seti I (father of Ramses the Great) in the basement Crypt, and several fine Canalettos in the New Picture Room. But, in truth, this museum best lends itself to odd reveries and chance personal connections.

As we stood before Seti I’s sarcophagus, the attendant sidled over and regaled us with the story of how Soane had purchased the sarcophagus from the widow of Belzoni, a circus giant turned amateur archaeologist, and how at the time the British Museum, strapped from purchasing the Elgin Marbles, had let the sarcophagus slip through its fingers. Soane was so delighted with this coup that he held a three-day celebration upon its arrival, with London society flocking to see it. As the attendant spoke, I could almost sense ladies in rustling silk gowns and gentlemen in knee britches gliding by to peer, as I did, down into the sarcophagus, there to behold the image of Nut, protectress of the dead.

I would like to say that I’d planned it this way, but I didn’t. My husband and son had never seen or been on the London Eye, and I knew that both of them would enjoy it as they both love big, high-tech structures AND ferris wheels, and the Eye is the biggest wheel of them all. What started as a ride on the Eye, though, evolved into several pleasant hours spent on the South Bank, followed by a leisurely stroll across Westminster Bridge, where we milled around with all the other tourists gawping at the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and Big Ben.

The London Eye isn’t cheap (£9), but if you’re as enamored of panoramic views as I am, it’s worth it. One thing to mention, though, is that the afternoon sun is behind most of the buildings you want to see, such as the Houses of Parliament, providing quite a squint-inducing difficult-to-photograph background on sunny days, so you may want to bear that in mind and go in the morning. On a cloudy day it might not matter much.

Another thing to note is that the website and advertising for the London Eye indicate that it’s necessary to purchase advance tickets. However, we were able to walk up and get tickets at the counter for immediate boarding even though it seemed fairly busy. (We were there in late March 2002. Perhaps the situation changes during high season – best to check, probably.)

What we hadn’t expected, but which turned out to be the highlight of our South Bank visit, were the bungee trampolines set up in front of the London Aquarium, which is next to the Eye on the waterfront. We first spied them as our capsule came slowly around the top of the wheel, and from that vantage point the people on the trampolines looked like so many performing fleas. Coming closer to the ground, my son began a persistent wheedle…"Pleeease, Mom…pleeeaase!" I hated to admit it, but I was as intrigued by the bungee trampolines as he was, but knew that at my age and weight it would be sheer madness to try it. (Perhaps I might have tried it, folks, if the prospect of spending the duration of the trip in traction hadn’t loomed quite so large!) The next best thing was to experience it vicariously, and so I caved: "Well, all right. But only if it’s not too expensive."

It was £6 and an hour’s wait, but my son had an absolute blast, soaring up and down on his bungee cords, even attempting a few flips. My husband and I spent the time while waiting looking out across the river, lazily observing the form of various trampoliners, and generally chilling. Afterwards we strolled across Westminster Bridge, one of my favorite short walks in London. Right on cue as we reached the opposite side, Big Ben began to chime. Perfect.

London by Bus

"I want to ride on top of one of those double decker buses!" This was my eleven-year-old son's announcement on his first morning in London. After briefly consulting a route map by a bus stop near our hotel, we decided to board a number 24 bus.

We had planned to take the bus south towards Westminster, but somehow boarded a northbound bus instead. However, as it turned out, we were glad we did, as the route took us through a nice variety of places, from bustling Tottenham Court Road, through picturesque Camden Town, and terminating in bucolic Hampstead Heath. Other than walking, taking a London bus is the definitely the best way to see London.

Several routes, going east-to-west (such as Routes 11 and 14) or north-to-south (such as Route 24) provide a good orientation for tourists. The number 24 bus starts at Hampstead Heath and travels through Camden Town, along Goodge Street and Tottenham Court Road to Charing Cross Road, then past Leicester Square and Trafalgar Square, and ultimately to Pimlico. By purchasing an all day Travel Card (good also for the Underground), you can easily get on and off the bus at several interesting places along the route.

By disembarking at Trafalgar Square, for example, you can take in the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery. Get off at Whitehall for Downing Street and the Horse Guards, or at Westminster for the Abbey and the Cabinet War Rooms, and the Houses of Parliament.

However, if you have time, it's well worth getting off at some of the places along the northern parts of the route. A great place to stop is Camden Town, with its lively open-air and indoor markets and scenic views along Regent's Canal. The markets are great places for bargain hunters. Camden Town is also a great place to make a rock 'n roll pilgrimage, as bands such as Pink Floyd, Cream, the Doors, and Jimi Hendrix all played at venues there during the sixties. More recently, artists such as Smashing Pumpkins, The Clash, Elvis Costello, Dire Straits, and REM have recorded or played in Camden. It's a place that seems to groove to its own laid-back, bohemian energy.

If you take the bus all the way out to Hampstead Heath, you can enjoy a tramp across the heath, perhaps visit Keats House or the opulent Kenwood House with its excellent art collection. The view from the heath of London is a sight well worth the walk. If you're on a tight budget, it's worth noting that the Youth Hostel at Golders Green is one of the nicer ones in London, with a lovely garden, mostly smaller rooms, and even a liquor license.

Information on routes, fares, and schedules, plus all the help you'd ever need to plan a London bus trip is easily obtained from the London Bus information page.

I ask you, what could be more British than Gilbert and Sullivan? Their deft operettas have worn well through the late 19th, 20th, and into the 21st century. Gilbert and Sullivan societies ("Savoyards") seem to pepper the globe, having been established everywhere from Tasmania to Nova Scotia. While I'd seen a number of G&S productions in the U.S., I'd never had the opportunity to see one performed by the original light opera company that Gilbert and Sullivan wrote for, the D'Oyly Carte Opera Company.

The opportunity came when we were able to get tickets for "Iolanthe" at the Leicester Square Half Price Ticket Booth. And what tickets! Our seats were third row from the stage, center. We paid what seemed like a pittance, $30. Better yet, we were able to see the performance in the Savoy Theatre, home to the D'Oyly Carte company since 1881.

It was a magical evening. Our eleven-year-old son had initially baulked at the idea of going to an "opera," but he soon found, as millions have before him, that Gilbert and Sullivan is the lightest of light opera. It's bubbly froth with a leavening caustic undertone, and the implausible plot (which, like all G&S operas, involved the eventual happy union of lovers) provides the pretext for musical romps and high Victorian silliness.

It helped, too, that the staging and choreography were so entertaining. The first act opens with a chorus of "fairies," all slim and beautiful in their gossamer fairy clothes. All except one, that is - a heavyset woman who was clearly relishing her role as the fairy who couldn't get things quite right. Later on, chaos ensues when the pompous Peers of the Realm (who enter decked in their robes of state singing "Bow, bow, ye lower middle classes/Bow, bow, ye tradesmen, bow ye masses..") are placed under enchantment and required to vote as the fairies' candidate wants. Silly? You bet. And delightful.

Margaret Thatcher was in the audience that evening, which made one of the lines about the sad state of affairs that resulted when "women meddled in politics" especially apropros. I glanced back at that point, and sure enough she was laughing appreciately along with the rest of the audience.

"What is the use of a book," thought Alice, "without pictures or conversations?"
- Lewis Carroll
Alice would have approved of Cecil Court , a quaint pedestrian passageway tucked between Charing Cross Road and St. Martin's Lane. Here book and print lovers can browse through over a dozen shops devoted to antiquarian prints, theatre memorabilia, first editions, children's books, antique maps and atlases, travel books, the occult, Italian books, military and naval prints, stamps, and Victoriana. This charming collection of old bookstores has been one of the major centers of the London antiquarian book trade for over a century, as well as (briefly) home to Mozart in the 1760's.

Whereas the larger London bookstores such as the massive Foyles aim to provide something for everyone, the booksellers on Cecil Court are unrepentant specialists. For example, Nigel Williams sells 19th and 20th century first edition children's and illustrated books. It's also a good place to pick up a rare first-edition P.G. Wodehouse. Another shop with children's and illustrated books is Marchpane where you can find rare editions of Lewis Carroll's books, among other children's classics.

Not surprisingly, the nearby theatre district is well represented by several fine shops dealing in stage memorabilia and the performing arts. The Witch Ball as well as Stage Door Prints specialize in theater, dance, opera, and film. We found some real treasures in the "bargain basement" of Stage Door Prints. Travis and Emery sell musical books, scores, libretti, and prints.

For books on travel and exploration, as well as maps and atlases, try Reg and Philip Remington at 18 Cecil Court, as well as The Traveller's Bookshop at the end of the street at number 25.

Unfortunately, rising rents have forced several venerable booksellers to move from London in recent years, and so Dance Books, formerly of Cecil Court, is now located in Hampshire, while antiquarian map sellers Tooley Adams have also recently moved elsewhere. One hopes that the trend toward mega-chains and internet booksellers will not ultimately lead to the demise of these splendid antiquarian booksellers.