Verona Journals

Verona a Tavola

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An August 2002 trip to Verona by gosusan

Caffe Mazzanti on the Piazza dellErbe Photo, Verona, Italy More Photos
Quote: Verona is a gourmand’s delight. Near wineries and farms, Verona’s bounty overflows. The cuisine of the Veneto and the city itself should be savored. At the junction of mountains and plains, Verona is a meeting place for different regions' foods. And you’ll never lack for a caffe or trattoria nearby!

Verona a Tavola

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Overview

Caffe Vista Photo, Verona, Italy
Quote:
This journal focuses on the food and drink of Verona. I lived here for over a month, sacrificing myself to endless research. To read about sightseeing, please see Verona: Citta d'Amore. However, I would argue that the best way to experience a piazza is to sit at an outdoor caffe. Here's a hypothetical journal of a culinary day in the life of a Veronese... Start off with a cappuccino and cornetto at your favorite caffe in Piazza dell’Erbe. For tramezzo (between meals) get a pannini at a Bar-Caffe. In the mid-day sun either enjoy a leisurely alfresco lunch at a pizzeria on Piazza Bra, or consume some ...Read More

Hotel and Ristorante Accadamia

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Hotel

Quote:
The Hotel Accademia is a 4 star hotel in the middle of the Citta Antica. Via Scala is a small street off the Pedestrian shopping haven of Via Mazzini, so you are in the center of things, yet not surrounded by traffic noise. (Unless you are partially deaf, watch out for hotels on grand boulevards!) The hotel is in a renovated 17th century building, with the baroque details preserved, yet has been upgraded to modernity. (i.e. all rooms have air conditioning and a private bath). Hotel Restaurants in Italy aim higher than their counterparts in the States, and the one in this hotel is no exception. For a splurge, the Ristorante Accademia offers gourmet cuisine, a mix of city, regio...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

Hotel and Ristorante Accadamia
Via Scala 12
Verona, Italy
045 596222

Caffe Mazzanti on the Piazza dell'Erbe

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Restaurant

Caffe Mazzanti on the Piazza dell'Erbe Photo, Verona, Italy
Quote:
Caffe Mazzanti is one of the many eating establishments that line the Piazza dell'Erbe. They serve food and drinks from the early hours of the morning to late at night, but my favorite time to visit is for breakfast. Linger over a cappuccino or caffe con panna, and nibble on a cornetto (a.k.a croissant) or brioche. In nice weather you can sit out on the piazza under an umbrella and watch the world go by. A caffe macchiato will run you about twice (~$2.50) what one does in a less well-situated establishment, but the scenery makes it worthwhile. Italian caffes take some getting used to by Americans. Food and drink cost more at the table (especially al fresco) than at the bar. Servic...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

Caffe Mazzanti on the Piazza dell'Erbe
Piazza dell'Erbe
Verona, Italy

Le Cantine de L'Arena

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Restaurant

Le Cantine de L'Arena Photo, Verona, Italy
Quote:
Le Cantine de l'Arena is a wonderful place to enjoy dinner, especially at an outdoor table. Situated just off the Piazza Bra, at the termination of Via Mazzini, the people watching will keep you occupied as you await your food. The restaurant specializes in typical offerings of the Veneto. Bigoli, a local pasta favorite, akin to large hollow spaghetti, is paired with anatra (duck), for a wonderfully rich primo piatto. Their coniglio arrosto (roasted rabbit) was delicious, if hard to eat neatly. Other offerings include the melodious sounding Risi e Bisi (peas in risotto)and several fish dishes. As the name might suggest, the restaurant is just a stone's thr...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

Le Cantine de L'Arena
Piazzetta Scalette Rubiani, 1 (off Piazza Bra)
Verona, Italy
(045) 803-2849

Ristorante Maffei

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Restaurant

Ristorante Maffei Photo, Verona, Italy
Quote:
Ristorante Maffei is located in the Palazzo Maffei, a 17th century baroque palace topped by statues of pagan deities. While the restaurant interior doesn't quite live up to the exterior, it is still pretty sumptuous. The restaurant itself is pricey by Veronese standards, but offers such delicacies as Pre’ sale di agnello in crosta aromatica e tartufo (lamb in a spicy crust with truffles) and Terrina d’anatra con fegato grasso d’oca in composta di uva (duck terraine with fois gras topped with a grape compote). It is a tasty splurge, and would cost you double to triple the dollars at a place of similar quality in the States. The wine cellar or enoteca is found in the base...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

Ristorante Maffei
Piazza dell'Erbe, 38 (near Corso P. Borsari)
Verona, Italy 37121
(045) 801-0015

Al Calmiere

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Restaurant

Al Calmiere Photo, Verona, Italy
Quote:
This trattoria specializes in Veronese food, which is distinct from the delicate and seafood-oriented dishes of the Veneto. Veronese food tends to be heavy, with an emphasis on organ meats and, of all things, cavallo. (You may be aghast at eating Mr. Ed, but just remember that there's been no instances of Mad Horse disease.) A typical meal might start out with a mixed plate of polenta con pate,, followed by gnocchi or pasta e fagioli . The most traditional secondi is bollito misto, a mix of boiled meats (including Trigger), served with a piquant pepper sauce- peara. All I can say is that it is a lot tastier than it sounds. You will of course be drin...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

Al Calmiere
Piazza San Zeno 10
Verona, Italy
(045) 803-0765

la Bottega del Vino

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Restaurant | "Bottega Del Vino "

Quote:
Bottega del Vino is many things, a restaurant, an enoteca, even a place to pick up a few bottles of wine, grappa or olive oil. It is often written up in international gourmet magazines, and it has a cult following. As such, reservations are neccessary! Though the restaurant was founded in 1890, reservations can be made in the modern fashion: on-line at here. They offer the standard range of primi piatti and secondi found in trattorie of the region. My favorite is bigoli con anatra , a local pasta of hollow spaghetti served with a rich sauce of roast duck. As you might expect from the name, they ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

la Bottega del Vino
Vicolo Scudo di Francia, 3
Verona, Italy 37121
+39 0458004535

Papa e Ceci

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Restaurant

Quote:
Too much of a good thing? After several days of traditional Italian meals, you may start to feel a bit jaded by the ubiquitous antipasto-pasta-secondi parade. This little trattoria, located in a narrow street in the Veronetta, provides a break, yet is still distinctly Italian. Don't be alarmed by the giant knife and fork sign, or the fact that the interior makes some Mexican party restaurants seem tastefully subdued. You are taking a break from the white tablecloth routine tonight, so enjoy everything offbeat. There is no set menu with the typical Italian courses. In fact, there's no menu at all. They offer you a choice of a larger or smaller feast. That's it- so vegetarians and p...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 10, 2002

Papa e Ceci
Via Seminario
Verona, Italy

Cooking like a Veronese!

Attraction | "Learn to cook like a Veronese!"

Quote:
After eating so many wonderful meals in Italy, you may wonder how to experience culinary heaven without having to fly back. Perhaps it would be worth investing in a week long cooking school. For those who suffered through making bread during the kitchen section of Home Economics, fear not that this is a return to 7th grade with Mrs. Walponski's endless lectures on kneading. You will learn to cook, but in grand style- as guests at the Renaissance palazzo of La Foresteria, in the heart of the Valpolicella wine region. Owned by a direct descendent of Dante, the palazzo is equiped with a dream kitchen and caters to foreigners who come to learn to cook and live like an Italian. St...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 7, 2002

Cooking like a Veronese!
La Foresteria Serego Alighieri
Verona, Italy

Weekly Neighborhood Markets

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Attraction

Weekly Neighborhood Markets Photo, Verona, Italy
Quote:
You haven't experienced Italian life until you've gone to a weekly neighborhood market. I lived on the outskirts of Borgo Trento (a 10-15 minute bike ride from city center), and every Wednesday morning, the trucks would set up booths starting at 7 to 8 am, on the streets around the piazza near my apartment complex. By 1pm they were gone, packed up and presumably ready to go to another neighborhood the following day. This was a great place to pick up produce, fish, meats and just about every other consumable good. The prices were better than the local markets, and the quality just as wonderful. For non edibles shopping, I picked up a nice tablecloth for $5 that retailed for at least ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 4, 2002

Weekly Neighborhood Markets
All over Verona
Verona, Italy

Deciphering Italian Eateries

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Story/Tip

Quote:
Below I have listed some of the terms and distinctions to help you decipher the myriad of terms Italians use to describe their gustatory havens. Of course these are generalizations: a ristorante in a town off the beaten path may be cheaper and less swanky than a trattoria in the city center. And many establishments attempt to capture all the price points and offer a ristorante, caffe, and enoteca on the premises! Ristorante: Formal restaurant, generally the most expensive. Expect to need reservations and to dress nicely. Trattoria: Usually cheaper and more casual than a ristorante. Often it is a local hang-out, with the menu written in chalk on a board, rather than pr...Read More