Saucy Sausalito

Sausalito retains a certain aura of history and attitude. A scrappy little settlement that blossomed during the gold rush, this town was never able to become a major port or industrial center like Pittsburg, Vallejo or Richmond. Now primarily a bedroom community for San Francisco, Sausalito is proud of its eclectic heritage and ability to remain a podunk little harbor town. Err, I mean a small but vibrant enclave of arts, culture and history. The restored turn-of-the-century buildings and water views are well worth a role of film, and below are several other ideas for spending time in what was once a collection of seedy bars and other establishments of ill repute:

1) Rent a kayak from Sea Trek and explore the Sausalito shoreline, paddle through the houseboat community and the wetlands beyond.

2) Take a cruise on a magnificent old sailing ship. The Hawaiian Chieftain and other tall ships call Sausilito their home port.

3) Meander through Sausalito's shopping district. You may be shocked by the high prices on silly items, but that's just part of the fun.

4) If you have children, take them either to the Bay Model Museum or the Bay Area Discovery Museum, both of which make their homes here.

5) Take an evening stroll along the sidewalk that leads south out of town and along the waterfront. You can enjoy the barking of the seals, the lapping of the water and a breathtaking vista of San Francisco city lights across the water.

Quick Tips:

Sausalito can be crowded on weekends. The best time to visit for peace and quiet is during the weekdays. Most of the crowds (and all of the tourbuses) leave in the evening, so if you are staying in Sausalito, you'll be able to enjoy a post-dinner walk along the town's streets and docks without bumping into the daytime crowds.

Sausalito is also home to many festivals and art fairs. Sometimes it seems like every other weekend has something special going on. These can be a lot of fun, but the town becomes even more crowded (and utterly impassible by auto). Therefore, I would recommend checking out the city event schedule whether your aim is to attend or avoid these various celebrations.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you are coming from San Francisco, the most scenic ways to reach Sausalito from the city is either by ferry or by biking over the Golden Gate bridge, down the hill into town. For a fun loop that incorporates both, check the journal entry "Bridges and Ferries, Oh My!"

You don't need a car to experience downtown Sausalito; everything is reachable by foot. As parking is neither easy nor free, and the commute down the hill from 101 is often backed up for half an hour or longer, why bother with the auto?

Sausalito is famous for its houseboat colony. Originally established and populated by artists, musicians, and writers - including Jean Varda, Aldous Huxley, Allen Ginsberg, Duke Ellington and Shel Silverstein- it was first grudgingly tolerated and is now too much fixture to ever be removed. The houseboats range from dilapidated shacks that look like they'll sink any moment, to multi story floating palaces. These aquatic homes form the most distinctive neighborhood in Marin. Unfortunately for the tourist, this is a gated community, so you can only see it close up as part of a paid tour, by kayak, or....

...if you rent a houseboat for your visit! Why stay in a nice but generic hotel if you can enjoy being gently rocked to sleep at night by the lapping waves? Wake up to the cries of the gulls and the barking of sea lions. Some places are larger and more luxurious than others, but, by definition, every one of them is a waterfront property!

While local papers and occasional net ads feature properties for rent by the owners, the easiest way for an out-of-towner to secure a berth is to contact Sausalito-Lodging (also known as "San Francisco- As You Like It.") Different properties have different rates, which vary by season, but you can get a quote from them by emailing them at SFO@sausalito-lodging.com with your dates and needs. One of their options, the Purple Pelican, is pictured below. Families and larger groups may find houseboats cheaper than booking multiple hotel rooms.

I have to admit that since I live in San Francisco, I have not stayed in one of these myself. However, I have heard rave reviews from people who have. And I can never go kayaking through the colony without wishing that I, too, could spend a night being carried by the tides. (Also, some boats include kayaks and equipment, so you can do the kayaking tour without having to rent.)

Margaritaville is a family-style Mexican restaurant. It's built out on a causeway, a bit removed from the rest of Sausalito's eating establishments. Surprisingly, not many restaurants in Sausalito offer outdoor, waterfront seating, but Margaritaville is one of them. (You may want to call in advance, as it's popular.)

As you might expect from the name and the location, this is not the sort of place to go for authentic, subtle Mexican fare. Think nachos and "hawaiian" quesadillas, and of course, lots of fruity cocktail drinks. But it does festive fare well, so as long as you are willing to enjoy it for its strengths, then party on. Ole!

The food is certainly better than what you get at Chevy's or El Torrito's. If you have a large group of people (at least 4), you can split one of their appetizer samplers (ranging in price, around $18) and still have room for dinner. Otherwise you might see about dividing a large salad to round your meal out. For main courses, they have a huge variety of traditional plates, but you certainly can't go wrong with their Chili Verde ($13.95) or Burrito Grande ($11.95) or Chicken Mole ($12.95). Their sauces are homemade, and I thought them quite respectable. Oh, and order one of their fruit namesake drinks. ($6.50 and up.)

SeaTrek offers a Full Moon Paddle to Dinner trip, where a meal at Margarita's is your reward! Since you'll be burning off a few calories by kayaking, you can enjoy some extra chips and guacamole without feeling guilty. But I wouldn't consume too much booze, or you might find yourself in Richardson Bay!

Sausalito is the home of the eclectic, the marinaphiles and the history afficianados. So is it any wonder than several tall ships make Sausalito their home port or favorite stopover destination?

While the The Ka'iulani, a fore and aft rigged vessel, and the Lady Washington, a favorite guest, can be found here, the Hawaiian Chieftain regularly sets sail in the Bay and welcomes the public aboard. She is a replica of a late 19th century European merchant trader, typical of the craft that plied these waters when San Francisco was a sleepy little town.

Adventure Sails and Battle Re-enactments (Fear not, mates, you will not take on a ferry or massive cargo vessel, rather you engage another Tall Ship) occur on Saturdays and Sundays, at $40 per adult for 3 hours of fun out on the Bay. Sunset Sails are $30 per person and Dockside Tours are a mere $5 or free if the ship has just returned from a long voyage.

San Francisco Bay is one of the most magical bodies of water in America. Traverse it by prosaic means, like a commuter ferry, and you will be awed. Now just imagine what it is like to be gliding the Bay under only the power of the wind, changing tack, and watching the wind fill the sails...

This entry describes a wonderful way to experience part of the natural beauty of Sausalito, San Francisco and the Bay. Maps are provided to give you the basics, but use the one the rental company provides for better accuracy.

1) Start at Adventure Bike Company, near Fisherman's Wharf/North Beach. You can reach them by the MUNI bus 15 or 30.

2) Pedal to the end of Columbus turning left at Jefferson. Once you get to Hyde, keep going straight (Cars have to turn right) to get great views of the Hyde Street Pier, Aquatic Park.

3) Pedal over Ft. Mason. Yup, it's a little bit of a hill, but it's car free.

4) Keep going along the waterfront. You'll pass Marina Green, and then you will enter the Presidio. Admire the restored wetland park of Chrissy Field (formerly an airstrip and dumping ground.)

4) Crank those gears because you are about to go up the hill to get the bridge.

5) You'll see a parking lot on your right with a bike path that leads to the Golden Gate Bridge. Pedal slowly, as you are likely to encounter massive groups of Japanese Tourists that will be blocking the path.

6) On weekends and holidays, the West side of the bridge is open for bike-only crossings. You take the path under the bridge to spiral up. Other times you have to take the East side, and navigate around people oblivious to basic road rights. But the views from the Bridge make it worth the hassle and the wind. (Hope you brought a fleece layer, too, as it gets chilly out on that span.)

7) After the crossing you'll be at a rest stop area. Take the access road to the right that will lead you down a long hill into Sausalito. This is the one part of the tour where there will be a lot of traffic. The road is wide but occasionally gusty, so be careful in your descent!

8) You are now in Sausalito, and you can laugh at all those auto-bound people who had to sit in traffic for 30 minutes and now have to figure out how they will park their car.

9) After enjoying the town, go to the ferry. (you cannot miss it!) Ferry Schedules are posted at the dock and also here. Departures are usually every hour or so on weekends. $6.75 is the one way fare, and the supplemental bicycle fee is about 2 bucks (either for one way or round trip.)

10) Go to the front of the boat to enjoy the view of the city, Alcatraz and the Bay. You'll need your windbreaker and fleece layer, as you WILL get wet from seaspray.

11) You are now back at Fisherman's Wharf. It's a short bicycle ride back to the bike shop. Enjoy a big pasta dinner in North Beach- you have earned it!

Sea Trek is one of the prominent kayaking outfitters in the Bay Area. I first toured with them at Point Reyes (journal "Don't Miss the Point") but they offer many tours from their home port of Sausalito, for different levels.

NOVICE: If you've never kayaked before, fear not that you'll be dragged out into rough waters and either carried to sea or run over by a huge cargo ship. Richardson Bay is calm, shallow, and the perfect place to learn the basics, which will be covered in their "Scenic Sausalito" tour, at $65, with plenty of time to see the town from the water.

EXPERIENCED: Sea Trek offers more strenuous jaunts, such as Angel Island crossings or "Paddle the Gate," where guides help you avoid shipping lanes and other danger spots. There are also starlight/moonlight paddles, where you carry glowsticks.

RENTAL: Assuming you know basic kayak navigation and self-rescue techniques, the cheapest option is to explore Richardson Bay on your own, by rental. Rental rates are as above, and include all gear (though you will want to bring gloves.) If you plan on making multiple paddles or live in the area, cheapest yet is to buy a block of time- 20 hours for $150.

The pictures below chronicle a self-guided jaunt I made last fall, out of the marina, turning left to visit the Tall Ship mooring and then going past (well, actually through- what a great maze!) the houseboat colony. We then quickly paddled the seaplane crossing and ended up deep in the estuary wetlands (best to check the charts to make sure you aren't fighting the tidal flows or attempting to go at low tide.) We came across harbor seals and pelicans, herons, and other interesting birds. Our only regret was forgetting our gloves, so we had lovely blisters as souvenirs.