The 'scruffy little city'

The best thing to do here is hike or backpack in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In the Smokies, if you get off the beaten trails, there are some absolutely gorgeous spots to enjoy. Also within a drive are Frozen Head State Park (note: due to budgetary cuts, this park was closed Dec. 1, 2001), Nantahala National Forest (just across the border in North Carolina), and Big South Fork National Recreation Area (up north). For you rafters and kayakers, the Ocoee River (host of the '96 Olympics), and the Nantahala are nearby as well.

Lots of trekkers pass through Knoxville on the Appalachian Trail. It's a good spot to re-stock, get a shower, and grab a bit of R&R.

Each spring/summer/fall the city has a free concert series (Thursday nights) on Market Square in the heart of downtown. Some great headliners and openers, and the atmosphere is always pure love, with food, beer, and lots of kids.

Although I wasn't here in 1982, lots of people still remember the World's Fair. Downtown still boasts the strange Sunsphere, although there's currently a lot of noisy construction in the former {'82} World's Fair Park.

Quick Tips:

Head down to the Old City (corner of Jackson and Central) for the best nightlife in town (never mind the obvious, glaring University of Tennessee ‘strip,’ except for maybe the Longbranch). Several restaurants, clubs (jazz, hip-hop, folk/bluegrass, rock, etc.-- we have tons of talented local and regional musicians), street preachers, cafes, and groovy little shops are all within a four-block grid. Lots of Knoxville history here. (I heartily recommend a black & tan at Patrick Sullivan's saloon.)

Volunteer Landing--With restaurants, fountains, riverboats, and other humble attractions, it's a relaxing space, set against the Tennessee River. (Also where I love to run.)

Ijams Nature Park--nice trails for walking or trail running, with great activities and exhibits for kids.

The Museum of Appalachia (in Norris, TN)--Another great stop for kids--lots of farm animals and rural life exhibits (check out the great musical instrument collection).

The Museum of East Tennessee History--right downtown--has its regular "East Tennesseans" exhibit as well as other temporary exhibits. It also boasts one of the best genealogy libraries in the South.

For all else, pick up a Metro Pulse (the free weekly alternative rag). It’s got the lowdown on sports, events, movies, etc.

Best Way To Get Around:

Since we live in one of Knoxville's first 'suburbs' (the funky 4th & Gill neighborhood), we walk pretty much everywhere downtown.

Knoxville is working on becoming a more bike-friendly area, but highway construction and other administrative problems always seem to get in the way. But, since there’s usually not much traffic downtown after sundown, it’s easy to cruise around the streets at night without fear of becoming road pizza.

There are plenty of taxis to be had, but you have to call them--not many to wave down.

The KAT (Knoxville Area Transit) bus system is not very good—it has weird weekend schedules and doesn’t extend to some of the best places. If you need to take it somewhere though, the routes are pretty straightforward.

And there is now a free trolley that ferries students from the UT strip down to the Old City on weekend nights.

If you find yourself in downtown Knoxville for the night, skip the Radisson, Hilton, or Hyatt, and check the Hotel St. Oliver for vacancies. It has a great small city B&B feel (except without the breakfast), and offers a variety of rooms at different prices.

This small, lovely hotel (only about 20 rooms, I think) is in a historic building right off Market Square. Each renovated room has been tastefully decorated with restored antique furniture and other special touches. (This is where actor Patricia Neal has her favorite room reserved when she's in town.)

Downstairs, off the lobby, there's also a small but decadent library/parlor to entertain or play a quiet game of backgammon in.

We were amazed at the personal service we received when we booked almost the entire hotel for our wedding party, families, and friends. Nancy Oslin (manager) was incredibly patient with changing reservations, late comings and goings, and special requests. All of our guests were very pleased. (We were also quite pleased with our honeymoon suite.)

All things considered, I think this is the best restaurant in Knoxville.

Staffed with UT students, actors, and creative types, it's a magnet for artists and downtown white collars alike. (When Tori Amos is in town, she's usually spotted dining here.)

The atmosphere is decidedly casual, but we've had many romantic summer meals dining al fresco. If you feel yourself zoning out, focus on some of the featured art or photography, or grab the restaurant’s copy of Harper’s or The Sun to read.

The Tomato Head also offers selections for carnivores, but its Italian vegan and vegetarian dishes are the forte. For lunch, I recommend the Cheddar Head (tofu and cheese) or Lucy (mushrooms, carrots, walnuts, cheese, and more) sandwiches with blue corn chips. And there is always some wonderfully creative selection for dinner--the vegetarian lasagnes are usually pretty good, but our favorite is the salmon/pesto pizza. They also now also offer (Tuesday nights?) wine flights--a sampling of two of their red or white wines for a nice price. If they have it, you have to try the raspberry crumb tart. It's perfect with a cup of Tazo Zen tea.

Reservations usually aren't needed, but for dinner on a Friday or Saturday night, the wait can be quite long--go ahead and give them a call.

The Tomato Head also sometimes hosts bands, usually late on Friday or Saturday nights. Although the tin ceiling does not good acoustics make, the off-beat musicians are usually worth listening to . . . through ear plugs.

M 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. T – Th 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. F + S 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed Sundays.

Mango is pretty pricey, so we go here when it's a special occasion. The servers are excellent--attentive, but not too attentive. Professional, but not snotty. All-around, Mango is a real treat.

This isn't exclusively Asian cuisine--it's actually an eclectic mix of tastes (is that what 'Continental' means?), with a subtle emphasis on Asian flavors.

For starters, there are great, fruity salads to choose from (the mesclun with strawberries is the best), rich soups, and funky appetizers (the pepper seared ahi tuna, with wasabi sesame vinaigrette is addicting).

My favorites are the special fish dishes, but there's also the poppy seed seabass on the regular menu.

For the dessert, go ahead and splurge on the Mango flan: light, but decadent.