LAND & SAND - Day Trips from Bayahibe, DR

Skimming across the placid clear waters of the Caribbean is a must on any number of water excursions including deep-sea fishing, scuba and snorkeling, or for fun and relaxation on one of the islands off the coast...including Isla de Saona; the entire country's most popular day trip described in a seperate journal.

Driving through the small mountains of the Cordillera Oriental range north of Higuey and El Siebo is an enchanted adventure back into time revealing the beautiful Dominican countryside uninterrupted as it's been for years...and without the threat of a booming coastal tourist industry to change it.

The National Park of the East showcases the area's dry forest terrain atop centuries-old karst. Included are several caves with Taino drawings and a hidden favorite with locals...great for swimming with the bats!

Experience a bit of Haiti without ever crossing the border as these national neighbors have flocked to this region in search of labor in the sugarcane fields which dominate vistas, and as vendors of tourist goods.

Accomplishing your explorations while basing from the village of Bayahibe is an authentic cultural experience and advantage detailed in my newly recreated Barefoot in Bayahibe...Again journal - definitely a highlight.

Quick Tips:

If you'd like a guide or assistance with any of your day trips, read my Bayahibe journal to find out how I can help arrange this.

Regardless of how you choose to navigate about, get an early start on the day planning your adventures to be finished well before dark when public modes of transportation stop running and safety risks increase. As a passenger or driver, allow plenty of time as even the shortest distances on maps can take double the expected typical time for actually getting there.

If you've need for conducting "official" related business during your trip, your best bet is in the nearby city of La Romana. Details and key directions are included in the Essentials entry.

Favored places for dining are included in the various entries.

Whether a locals' market where you haggle for prices or a store where costs are already set, the region is littered with places to buy handicrafts and souvenirs. I'll share some of my best finds.

Best Way To Get Around:

Water excursions leave from Bayahibe bay or lagoon. Trips and private charters can be booked with locally owned TOURS SAFARI & ACUATICO at the open-air Issa Mar Cafe in back of the bay, or at CASA DANIEL DIVE SHOP behind the village center's Supercolmado. Prices from either are comparable.

For taking to the road, publicos/gua-guas public transportation are the most accessible/least expensive, but not always the most direct OR convenient due to time frames and transfers. However, they're fairly safe and a great place for rubbin' shoulders with the locals...literally as they're also jam-packed!

If you're not on a tight budget, car rentals (though I'd recommend SUV's) is an option for independent traveling convenience but comes with even more costly risks/hazards potentially not worth the effort. Read the Free Form Transportation advisories in my DR-SURVIVOR journal before deciding.

While certainly not the safest, various forms of motorcycles are the most popular way for getting places. Whether renting one or riding on back with a local, there's some places and Day Trips this mode of transport can't be avoided.

My specific choice/use of transportation for each Day Trip is detailed within the entries.

If you've rented a car or have access to vehicles, take advantage of these personal reflections from opportunities that literally redefined my expectations/experiences from all other trips visiting the DR. But what/however - Take a Drive Through the Interior and INDULGE in the Beauty and Peacefulness!

Locals spend the week between Christmas/New Year's traveling about dropping in to see family/friends. From Higuey, we piled in back of a truck heading west out of town on Highway 4. As if my excitement alone from this adventure wasn't enough, the magic didn't unfold until turning right/north on one of many unmarked, dirt roads where we officially entered the country's country.

From here, we began the gentle climb up through the Cordillera Oriental which looks like such a rugid range from afar, but reveals moderate rolling hills when actually within them. We hadn't gone far when I jumped up to lean over the roof of the cab for taking a "head-on" position while being propped up with camera in one hand, trying to hang on with the other. Roads were surprisingly decent as they wound there way through open farmlands dotted with immaculately kept, colorful wooden Dominican homes.

El Campo de Mamey is name of a hilltop settlement where we eventually stopped to visit an extended family whose simple homes were scattered within view across lands owned for generations. Their well-tended farms and gardens revealed hard work and efficiency for living off the lands, but their was no disguising other obvious luxuries which played into the warmth and hospitality.

At one point, I sat alone under a huge mango tree...sad the fruit was too green to eat though I was already stuffed Before me were endless lush, green valleys rolling upward into the crests of other hills. The gentle breeze was circulating aromas from the nearby spice and herb garden. And other than the rustling of leaves, the only sounds heard were a distant crowing rooster...and mellow Bachata music unobtrusively from so far away, I all but wondered if God wasn't playing it from the heavens also as He pleasantly smiled over His DR creations.

It was one of those days which could have lasted forever, but we needed to depart before catching a sunset. There was still enough light on the ride back to see more awe-inspiring serenity and remote homes with smiling, waving people out front. My friends were also warmly smiling in witnessing my state of euphoric, willing acceptance for things they hold so dearly - something I described to them as experiencing that day beyond the highest First Class tourist!

When visiting Bayahibe and the DR, there's NEVER enough time just to "be" - little alone to "see". Here's more potential suggestions I look forward to eventually marking off this "To Do" list and adding them in separate, detailed entries.

Altos de Chavon is a hilltop copy of a 16th century mediterranean village that's part of the Casa de Campo complex. Its known as an artists' community with many shops/boutiques selling their expensive creations. There's also several upscale eateries and a popular discotech which opens nightly. Aside from the sites, the other highlights are the hilltop vistas across the Rio de Chavon valley and the Sea. Adimission is free for independent travelers who enter by the road, or a boat trip over booked in Bayahibe costs $19.

The early 16th century Governor's mansion of Ponce de Leon outside of the village of San Rafael de Yuma is said to be a historic treasure...as is the Bernard Cave in nearby Boca de Yuma.

The desolate yet beautiful Parque Nacional del Este which showcases the region's natural and historical resources including Taino and early civilization traces in caves. Information boothes are located along the coastal road in Bayahibe.

The city of San Pedro de Macoris, about one hour away, is arguably the baseball capital OF THE WORLD as detailed in my DR-Survivor journal. There's no better place for catching a game with year-round contests on the schedule. During MLB's off-season, team rosters are filled with Dominican stars returning home. Tickets are inexpensive, but often sell out quickly.

Beaches - undeveloped, secluded beaches still line the east coast...which means they're still open to the public. Juanillo, south of the Punta Cana area, is VERY popular with locals. Also, the rutted coastal road which runs north of Bavaro has many beautiful areas up through Playa Muerto.

Scuba Diving opportunities are endless thanks to Bayahibe's Casa Daniel Dive Shops. Prices range based on the excursion, but basic certification and instructional dives cost under $100.

Deep-sea fishing can be done only by making private arrangements at Issa Mar Cafe along back of Bayahibe bay. A full-day out costs $300; half-day $150. The cost is for boat and equipment rental, but can be split between several parties if others are available. Perhaps you'd better enjoy fishing with a local on one of their small wooden boats. Arrangements can be made by reading my Bayahibe journals, "Would you like a personal tour guide" entry.

If you're looking for one-stop shopping, head for EL ARTISTICO which is located 3kms west of La Romana on the north side of Highway 3. They're open daily. Telephone numbers are 809/566-8373 or 550-2808. There's also a snack bar on the premises.

This rock compound has reasonable priced works of Dominican art, jewelry and a mind-boggling amount of souvenir-type items. They've many original works along with those mass-produced. Especially unique were wood carvings, and butterflies, birds and other Dominican icons made out of pounded metal and then brightly painted. There's also a large assortment of guiros, native drums and other musical instruments. Purchases are wrapped/packed for travel. I bought so much, the owner gave me a copy of Michael Fridel's pictorial essay book of the country...certainly worth buying.

The only drawback is the distance west of the city. If you come by cab, I'd highly suggest you also pay the driver to wait! I took a motoconcho out for RD30 and the guard flagged one down for me to take back...of course with hands loaded preventing holding on.

All official tourist shops accept major credit cards.

Unless you've a higly trained eye, purchase amber, lorimar and other gems from official jewelers in La Romana. While you might pay more, at least you'll know you're getting WHAT you paid for. The native gems are rather inexpensive, though you'd be wise buying any gold in the States.

Tailored Italian suits can be found on the second floor of IBERIA Department Store for around $200. Directions are in the La Romana "essentials" entry.

Just south of Bayahibe are five resorts which have drawn a multitude of tourist-related shops just outside the compounds' walls. Regardless of where you shop, scout "officially-marked prices" on goods to use for comparative shopping at locals' markets...which is basically the same stuff. Their starting "ask" price is usually more than double what priced in stores. So if you're good at haggling and bringing prices down, you're still likely paying more plus the hassle and hustle.

Bottles of liquor and cigars sold in tourist shops are much cheaper from local colmados. Mama Juana, described in my Bayahibe journal, is my most popular requested iten when bringing gifts to the States.

Beyond official business needs detailed in the partnering "essentials" entry, there's not much else cause or reason to make one leave the tropical countryside and beaches for sightseeing here. But if you're looking for a glimpse of Dominican life beyond the village, here's what you'll find.

The colorful Parque Central is a good place to anchor from as anything interesting is within a 3-block radius. (Public restrooms are under the Park's central gazebo.) Along the southern side of the square is a Western Union and stores that sell used clothing and goods at cut-rate costs to the local poor. If looking for inexpensive new shoes, including a lot of Italian leathers, check out Los Muchachos on the street heading south off the square. It's across from Banco Popular.

Heading north along the west side of the church and then all behind it, you'll find the city's thriving open-air market. For those who've seen them before, this one's typical. But if you've never had the chance to experience such, I highly suggest miandering through for the sites, sounds and smells as everything from freshly plucked and gutted poultry to the latest knock-off fashion copies are being sold. While locals aren't aggressively pushy in trying to make a sale, they are more interested in your buying something than trying to take photos. It's about respect - the untainted experience IS better without the tourist mentality.

When you're ready for something to eat, head back to the northeast corner of the square and along Calle Eugenio Miranda half a block off is the TRIGO DE ORO cafe obscurely hidden behind a wall...though a huge banner was tied over the street in front. This upscale French bistro seems all but out of place operating out of a refurbished historical home with veranda-sized porches and cafe seating in the yard shaded by canopies and lush vegetation. Inexpensive sandwiches and pastries dominate the menu and I'd wager this is about the most upscale thing you'll come across outside of the nearby confines of Casa de Campo.

Male rituals include Dominicanos having their weekly haircut/shave for 100 pesos at local barbershops, (where they can also cut straight hair!), and their 5-peso shoe shine from any of the young lads saturating the Parque Central. Seasonal semi-pro baseball and basketball teams play in stadiums west of town.

If you find La Romana overwhelming from the bustle of city living, I'd definitely advise rethinking a trip into Santo Domingo which is 10+ times more of the same. Whether for the essentials or pleasures of looking around, visiting any city is better and safer if you've got a local guide along for the ride.

If your visit has you in the area on January 21st, consider joining Dominicans from across the country on their annual Holy pilgrimage to Higuey...or avoid them all together. Locals flock to pay tribute to a small framed picture of the Virgin of Altagracia from the 16th century - of course, with a miraculous legend/myth surrounding it. For the other 364 days of the year, you can still pay homage without the crowds and marvel at one of the country's top architectural wonders.

The Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Altagracia, which contains the photo and shrine, was completed in 1954 after a pair of French architects had their plans chosen from some of the world's best designers. Beyond the typical structural formation of the Catholic Latin Cross, the architects included a pair of domes arching upwards representing hands clasped in prayer. Perhaps you'll need to stretch your imagination a bit, just as the creators did, but the biggest miraculous wonder is the entire structure is made from poured concrete! The stark brashness of the outside warms in the interior with the beautiful stained glass windows and candles. Otherwise, its plain and simple...certainly nothing comparable to Europe's grand cathedrals but worth checking out if you're happening to pass this way.

The basilica is centrally located in an expansive open space and can be seen from anywhere within the city. Vendors selling candles, rosary beads, and other Holy trinkets line the outer walls.

Signs ask you respect the church with proper attire, but I was with my Dominican family who were wearing shorts, too. They entered as did I and we weren't the only ones - locals or tourists. A schedule for daily masses is posted in front; restroom facilities located outside in a separate facility off the southwest corner of the basilica.

When mass finished, we headed straight for visiting family so I've no more specifics as for the city. For those staying in Punta Cana/Bavaro resorts, about an hour east of here, you'll find your essentials and business-type needs here...like described in my La Romana entry.

For getting to Higuey from Bayahibe, take the publico and get off when at the Highway 3 intersection for RD10. Walk across to the gas station and wait for a passing gua-gua to Higuey for another RD20. When returning, the gua-gua station for La Romana is along Ave. La Altagracia which runs parallel with the southern border of the church yard. Ask to be dropped off at the Highway 815/Bayahibe turn-off and wait for a passing publico.

Here's a secret rendezvous spot worth your time. But even if you have durable, reliable transportation good for the roughest terrains, this is an adventure you'll definitely need to take a Bayahibe local along to keep you from getting lost or stranded.

When turning off Highway 815 for the village of Bayahibe, there's an obscure dirt road heading east in the opposite direction which runs to the forsaken shack village of El Padre Nuestro you'll never find on any map. The ten or so minute ride on a motorcycle was at a snail's pace...and almost as slimey form all the water-filled potholes we rode through. Scattered burros and refuse dotted the scenary; El Padre made Bayahibe look like Beverly Hills! Yet the even worse impoverished conditions did nothing to curb the typical happiness and hospitality of the locals.

After visiting family, we were joined by other friends on scooters to ride south out of town along an even more desolate road which eventually loops back to the north. It's disputable whether this area is actually in the National Park of the East or not, but the terrain is typical of scrub, dry forest, cactus and exposed karst formations everywhere. I was also amazed at how people continued to appear roadside...out of nowhere!

When the road turned trail could go no further, we stopped and walked a short distance to the right/east before descending deeply down into an open mouth cave. At the bottom was barely enough light to see the silhouette figures of my friends and glistening of clear water. We stripped down to our skivvies, as people have been doing since Tainos roamed, and spent the next couple of hours playing like children in this surprisingly warm and fresh water pool. Off to the right are 6-foot bluffs to fall off...not jump lest you hit your head on the low-hanging ceiling. Supposedly...there is no bottom.

I consider this one of the best hidden finds/experiences - with an added thrill of potential danger. When I come back, I'd like to bring a mask and underwater flashlight, and linger until dusk to see if bats do fly out! Stop at the makeshift colmado in El Padre to pick up drinks/snacks/fruits on the way out. This gives an excuse to further check-out the village where you'll be quite the novelty as rarely EVER do they see a tourist.

Catalina Island is the water playground area for nearby Casa de Campo's wealthy guests...and unless your only interest is snorkeling, let 'em keep it and head for Saona! Daily excursions leave Bayahibe bay around 9:30 a.m. costing $45 per person which includes transportation and snorkel gear. Ask whether a full meal, snacks or any food is included with your trip as it tends to vary.

I rode out with some of my local friends as part of their boat crew for taking an extended family of Casa del Mar guests. The private charter yielded more flexibility in our day than a typical structured trip, but also revealed these additional hints/suggestions should you be able to persuade your boat captain.

First, when nearing the eastern coast of Catalina, the clear dark blue waters will entice you to want to stop there...but DON'T if you have any say. The area is even more mosquito-infested than the other, better side!

In a gentle arcing cove along the west is a beach area that's been developed for excursions with facilities, picnic tables and about the only palm tress you'll find on this desolate island. There's a large area in the water roped off for swimming and snorkeling which is good for children and beginners. However, use caution as the waters are shallow and the combination of tide and wake from the boat traffic can easily rake you across the extensive coral barriers.

If this is where your group has officially "parked", ask the boat captain if he might take you to the south of the cove area. There's another roped off section below some short bluffs where the waters are still clear but much deeper and the fish more abundant. Avoid snorkeling too close to the bluffs as their shadows caste darkness and once again, the wake from passing boats can push you into the walls.

Aside from the chance to snorkel, I wasn't impressed compared with what Saona has to offer. I'd highly recommend the OFF-Bug Spray as pesky sand flies were worse than mosquitos!

With time to kill, we took the long way home passing behind the luxurious villas and mansions of Casa de Campo and from me to get an upclose view of the new marina area...and despair knowing there's also one in the plans for Bayahibe's village waterfront. More than snorkeling, I enjoyed the experience spending time with friends at work...if that's what you want to call it. And the greatest compliment came when unloading the passengers back at the resort and my fellow New Yorkers tipped me, too as one of the boat crew - not knowing I was really one of "them".

New Year's Day brought us to the coastal village of Boca de Yuma for all-day/night fiesta and some of the most breathtaking cliff-top scenary in the entire country. But without specific cause, I'm not sure most people would bother with this out of the way place...unless that's exactly the kind of experience you're looking for!

The town was all but wiped off the map after taking the head-on brunt of 1998's Hurricane George, but has pieced itself back together with typical residencial areas, shops/colmados, restaurants, and at least one hotel I saw that would have to be categorized budget.

Boca de Yuma has been untouched by the booming tourist industry for their lack of sandy beaches...only miles of rocky cliffs which drop straight into the Ocean. The DR's deep-sea fishing is claimed to be at its best around here including an annual Blue Marlin Fishing Tournament. Boat rentals are available.

We dined at La Playita open-air cafe which is right of where the main road into town t's into the coastal road. Their extensive menu famous for fresh seafoods seemed to only have conch for the day...which I enjoyed in a heavy garlic sauce. Actually, the best foods were later found at the shack stands which lined the coastal road to the left of the t-intersection. A tasty, whole grilled fish was RD30, pastelies RD20.

When heading left and the road begins to wind back north, you'll find the best scenary...including all the colorful wooden fishing boats, and on the left is the two-story, open-air dancehall which if its open is a local experience NOT to be missed out on even if calmly enjoyed from a distance.

The downfall of Boca de Yuma is actually getting there. We took motorcycles from Bayahibe, but once entering the village, the roads were absolutely the worst beyond imagination with gapping ruts and potholes. Use beyond caution if driving.

Arriving by public transportation also isn't easy without direct transfers from La Romana or Higuey. Otherwise, take the Bayahibe publico exiting at the Highway 3 intersection. Take a Higuey bound gua-gua, caught in front of the gas station, and exit at the Boca de Yuma turn-off and wait for other publicos/gua-guas to arrive...keeping in mind that public transportation doesn't run after dark.

Between the highway turn-off and Boca is the small village of San Rafael de Yuma where we stopped to visit and collect more family for the day's celebration. If you've freedom in your navigation, a quick ride through is good for seeing a typical, uninterrupted Dominican town at its best.

If coming from Bayahibe by publico, you'll ride across the bridge spanning the Rio Salado onto the bustling 4-lane Ave. Libertad. You'll need to immediately visually locate the long, narrow parking lot-type passageway which runs parallel to the left/south of here. It's where the publicos wait for departing back to Bayahibe. A one-way ride either way is 20-pesos.

The publicos make several stops into town, though I suggest staying on until it arrives at Parque Central which is the focal point of the city. The Codetel office is located on the eastern side of the square as are three smaller bank branches which can serve you without the wait...unlike always crowded Banco Popular which is located south on the street on which you'll enter the square.

For transportation transfers on to larger regional gua-guas and private lines, the station for buses headed to Higuey and San Rafael de Yuma/Boca de Yuma is on the street heading north out of the center and located across from the east side of the church. Buses heading west for San Pedro de Macoris, Juan Dolio, Boca Chica and Santo Domingo depart from a station off the northwest intersection of the square.

If you need to purchase anything not found in the local colmado, there are two megastores equivalent to our Wal Mart Supercenters. Directly behind the church is the open-air city market and one block north of there is a tall pastel-orange building which contains ORENSES Department Store. An even larger selection can be found at IBERIA - a pleasant walk through the city two blocks west from Orenses and then three blocks left/north along Calle Francisco Ducoudrey. Both stores readily accept major credit cards. Be advised they check all bags...and while I never had anything missing, you might consider leaving any valuables that won't fit into pockets back at your hotel and to carry your camera.

One block north of Iberia where the street is the large public hospital center, though unless dire emergency, you'd be wise to seek out a private physician.

If not walking, taxis are everywhere; motorconchos even more abundant. Anywhere on a motoconcho in the city cost RD10 when with local friends, RD20 when a tourist by myself. Might I suggest for motoconchos you at least wait until you can flag down an older, more experienced driver to minimize risk.

*For maps, Lonely Planet's DR Guidebook has about the most detailed one for the city.