Among the Fourteeners: Summer in Salida, CO

With summer in Salida there's never a lack of things to do...you can take a hike up Tenderfoot or "S" mountain just a twenty-minute walk out of town, raft or kayak down the Arkansas River, check out the annual FIBArk festival at Riverside park, relax in one of several hot springs, take in a few art galleries, have a beer in an old brothel, or just soak in the sunshine.

Quick Tips:

Bring (& wear) a high SPF sunblock and layer, layer, layer! The weather can go from 75 degrees to hail to thunderstorm to baking sun in the space of a day. Fleece is your friend, cotton is not.

Best Way To Get Around:

This area is pretty spread out, you'll need to have a car to access most parts. Though if you have the inclination, a mountain bike would take a bit longer, but will do the trick, too.

Cottonwood Hot Springs Inn & Spa
Because I spent most of my time in Colorado playing out in the high mountain desert, I soon tracked down all of the nearest hot springs to work on sore muscles and whisk away the dust. Cottonwood has both a large common pool and several small, private ones (a pretty good deal at $7.50/hour per person). We often took advantage of reserving the private tubs with a terrific view of the Collegiate Peaks. They have accomodations running the gamut from camping & teepees to private cabins to deluxe rooms in the lodge. All lodging includes use of the springs and sauna.

There is also a complete menu of massage and spa treatments available. For more information, contact them directly at: info@cottonwood-hot-springs.com.

Click here for directions to Cottonwood Hot Springs Inn & Spa.

Ruth Fisher is the proprietress of this lovely old Victorian B&B constructed in 1890. Located just a few blocks from Salida's historic downtown, Century House is a beautiful "painted lady." Of the six rooms available (ranging from $65 to $120), I was in the comfortable Prairie Room. There is a suite available for families that has a fold-out couch.

Staying here was a luxurious haven, especially after returning from a long hike or day on the river. You can find Century House online at: http://www.bboline.com/co/centuryhouse/index.html

Rumored to be housed in a haunted building, Salida's branch of Il Vicino (now Amicas) opened in 1994, the summer I lived there. Located in Salida's historic downtown, this New Mexico based restaurant / brewery completely refurbished the interior to reflect the highlights of the well-worn structure & the artistic nature of the community. They installed a beautiful brick oven embedded with pottery and random pieces from Always Azul Pottery, just down the street. All of the multicolor-hued dishes are also from Always Azul. Il Vicino is also Salida's only microbrewery.

This is not your average pizza joint...the ingredients are top notch as well as the presentation and service. They even manage to get amazingly fresh greens for the salads, no small feat in the mountains. Overall, the beers are really tasty, including the Wet Mountain IPA brewed only at the Salida location.

Hours:
Sunday - Thursday 11:30am to 9:00pm
Friday - Saturday 11:30am to 11:00pm

Laughing Ladies
Salida is an old West town, and in that time period, the working women were known euphemistically as the Laughing Ladies. They never got to work further than First Street where the restaurant is located, so the restaurant is named in honor of the ladies who used to apply their trade in Salida.

During my short summer in Salida, I helped to get Laughing Ladies opened and worked here until the end of the season. They take care with their ingredients, the food is truly good, the wine list has a carefully chosen collection with prices ranging from affordable to a big splurge, and Sunday brunches are not to be missed.

There is a sunny courtyard in the back of the old brick building, seating out there is at a premium during the warm months and feels especially good in the late afternoon when the breeze starts to pick up.

One of the best spots in town, First Street Cafe delivers just what you need after a day on the river or climbing around the peaks. Darleen and Wayne have put together an all-American menu infused with the Mexican flavor to be found all over this area. This is a favorite spot for river guides, local business people, bikers (both kinds!), ranchers, and people just passing through.

There's a fresh salad bar that's included with most dinners, also two soups daily. I tended to stick with the huevos rancheros for breakfast and something along the lines of an enchilada plate for dinners. There's a wide range of both meat and vegetarian options to be had on the extensive menu. Breakfast, lunch, or dinner...make sure and stop in to this historic building for a taste of Salida.

River Runners
River Runners is getting set to celebrate its thirtieth year taking folks down the Arkansas River, this summer promises to be an adventure. They have two main offices, one close to Cañon City, the Royal Gorge & the other, Fisherman’s Bridge between Salida and Buena Vista. I did a few trips, both full days through Brown's Canyon, Class III / IV rapids.

The first leg of the trip is serene and sort of slow as you learn the ropes of paddling & get to know your guide. After about a half-hour of learning the commands, which, believe me will come in useful when the guide is screaming, "Paddle...NOW" or "High-side NOW!"...you start to get down to business. With nefarious names like Seidel’s Suckhole, Pinball, Big Drop, Zoom Flume, Staircase, & Raft Ripper you'll be really happy that you paid attention at the beginning of your float down the Arkansas.

Ravenous after working hard to stay in the boat, we were exceptionally happy when halfway through the day our guide had us eddy out with the promise of lunch. He and the other guides whipped up a tasty meal with a scenic view just off the riverbank. Afterwards there's some time to digest and jump off a fairly high rock ledge into a deep hole in the river (if you're of brave heart & not so sound mind).

After a few more runs of rapids, a "swim" if that's what you call being jettisoned out and finishing the rapid sans boat (which was actually a lot of fun!), and paddling until my arms were floppy straps of jello...we finally arrived at the take out. Everyone piled onto the bus that returned us to the main office, a little shivery, pretty exhausted, and completely exhilarated. Once you return all your gear there's an option to purchase some 8x10's that photographers on the riverbanks have taken of you & the rest of the crew on your boat. Oh, and it's good form to tip your guide. (Seeing as how I was living with one at the time, I know how surly they could be after an afternoon of entertaining the folks only to get nada afterwards. They do work hard, play hard, but most important, they keep you safe on the river.)

To note: Rafting is a fun way to spend the day with family and friends, but pay attention to what you're doing and those around you. It's not common, but people die on the river, many from drowning after falling out and being sucked into a hole that recirculates with such force you can't get out. Know the risks before you get on the boat & above all else, listen to your guides instructions.

For descriptions of the trips & prices, click here

Toll-Free (800) 525-2081
Phone (719) 539-2144
Fax (719) 539-6113

Hours: 7:00am to 9:00pm - Daily May until September

Contact them directly at: raft@amigo.net

The "Vic" as it's know to locals is one of the oldest buildings in Salida, it's just a few years this side of an Old West saloon. Once a popular brothel in the red light district, it sits across from the Arkansas River in the historic Victoria Hotel.

The spacious bar has the original beautiful stamped tin ceiling designed to deflect the sounds of the saloon from the guests staying in the hotel rooms above. The bar itself is an enormous polished wood number with a long mirror directly behind it. The beer selection includes imports and a number of Colorado microbrews, and good 'ol Leinenkugel from Wisconsin.

For entertainment you can play a well-used (and maintained) shuffleboard game, rack up at one of several pool tables, and the back room has a stage set-up for live music on the weekends.

Mt. Princeton Hot Springs
Located just down the hill from the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort, the geothermal hot springs pool is another inexpensive way to soak off the dirt from hiking, warm up some after a day of rafting, or just to entertain the kids while you relax on the other end. If you're camping like we were, it's a great spot to catch a good soak and a much-needed shower. There's a restaurant in the hotel too, which offers fair, somewhat over-priced steaks and standard American fare.

If you decide to stay in the resort you have access to some great trails, mountain horseback rides through their riding stables, and they also rent mountain bikes. Mt. Princeton is part of the Collegiate Peaks, the altitude places it in among the famed fourteeners at 14,197 feet.

They have three pools available, which one you choose depends on what temperature you're going for & also the season. The only one I've ever tried was the soaking pool (100°-105°). There's also an Olympic-size lap pool (88°-92°) & a cold pool with a waterslide (the waterslide is only open Memorial Day to Labor Day).

As far as what to expect, well, it's basically a geothermal swimming pool with both a shallow and deep end, bathing suits are mandatory (this isn't the case at all hot springs), the water is warm and feels great on a chilly evening, there are people of all ages, and a real bare bones locker room set-up. They request that you shower before entering the pool, don't bother trying to adjust the water temperature with the "cold" faucet, I'm pretty sure it's just for show. For the money, it's a great way to relax, enjoy an amazing view of the Chalk Cliffs and surrounding peaks, and get squeaky clean in the process.
Pool Prices:
Adults 13-61...$6.00
Children.......$3.00
Seniors 62+....$3.00

Winter Hours: Daily 9:00am to 9:00pm

Directions (see map): To get to Mt. Princeton from Salida, take Hwy. 291 out of town towards Hwy. 285. Head North on Hwy. 285 towards Buena Vista. Once you reach Nathrop, continue on ¼ mile until you see the Mt. Princeton & St. Elmo sign. This is County Road 162, turn left here. The hotel and hot springs are about 4 miles up on the left-hand side.