The Island of Up and Down

Grenada is known for its spices; 90% of the world's nutmeg is grown here. There are many tours that will take you through nutmeg and cocoa processing. If you don't want to sign up with a formal tour, most taxi drivers will be happy to arrange a tour for you that will go at your own pace.

Grenada is also the island that the US invaded in 1983, ostensibly to protect American students studying at St. George's University. A trip to the forts on the island, one of which is still in use as a police barracks, is a fascinating view of living history.

Quick Tips:

The currency in Grenada is the East Carribbean dollar. US.00 = EC.67. Always ask if the price quoted is in EC dollars or US dollars. You will sometimes get a better deal in EC dollars.

Grenada is not a top tourist destination, and, as such, may be a little more third world than the typical tourist is used to. It is a beautiful country, with stunning vistas, gorgeous beaches, and lavish waterfalls. Even after the 1983 invasion, American tourists are welcome.

Best Way To Get Around:

The best way around Grenada is on foot or by the ubiquitous mini-buses. Be aware that this country is hilly, and every place you want to go is either uphill or downhill from where you are.

The mini-buses are all privately owned, and are the best value for getting around. The fare from Grand Anse Beach to St. George's is EC, and well worth it. Know that no bus is full until the driver decides it is full, which may be three more people than you had in mind. When you want to get off, knock on the roof, and the driver will stop as soon as it is convenient for him to do so, which may or may not be at a bus stop.

I thought the Grand View Inn was a bargain-priced gem. The reality was rather different.

The Grand View Inn does have good points, and out of fairness, I'll list them first.

The Room
I booked a standard room, which was actually a two room apartment. Each of the rooms were huge. The bedroom contained two beds, and a corner was walled off a bathroom, which was small and dark.

The kitchen/living area held a table, couch, and small kitchenette. The living room opened out onto a balcony that had a table and several chairs. Both rooms were high ceilinged and airy. Sadly, both rooms suffered from a serious lack of sufficient light after dark.

The View
The Grand View Inn does live up to its name in this regard. The rooms all have balconies or patios, and overlook either Grand Anse Beach or Morne Rouge Bay. Be aware that rooms on the Morne Rouge side get the full brunt of the afternoon sun. This can make it uncomfortably warm to sit on your balcony with an afternoon cocktail. The views on the Grand Anse side are absolutely stunning.

The Not-So-Good Points

Water
Water is kind of important to me. And I understand that clean, fresh water is at a premium in many Caribbean Islands. At the Grand View Inn, however, there were mornings when I'd turn on the tap and get....nothing. Limited water is one thing. No water, that's a problem.

Location
The beach, the grocery store, and the bus stop were all half a mile to a mile away, straight downhill. Getting down the hill is easy. Getting up the hill is not (especially if you are a middle-aged, American woman wearing flip-flops and carrying half a case of beer.) Since there is no bus service to the Grand View Inn, the only way up the hill is on foot, or by taxi. For those younger, or fleeter of foot, than I, this may not be a big deal.

The Pool
The pool had no water. It was, however, painted a pretty color.

Conversion Games
This one item annoys me more than everything else.

The price for your accommodations is quoted in US dollars, and you are told 18% will be added for tax and service. You are NOT told that the price in US$ will be converted to East Caribbean dollars at a lower exchange rate, effectively adding 5% to the cost of the room.

I hate currency exchange shenanigans. On their website my room is listed at US$75.00 a night. In reality cost me US$92.76.

The Surprise
The Grand View Inn website says if you book online, you'll get a surprise on check-in. Over the course of two weeks, I asked several times about my "surprise", and never got an answer, not even from the owner. I guess the surprise is that there is no surprise. No truth in advertising, either.

In Summary...
I would like to recommend the Grand View Inn, but I can't.

One of the best values for lunch in Grenada is one you won't see in any guide book. But you, you lucky child, have Friskycelery as a guide, and I'll let you in on the secret.

Think back to 1983. The deputy Prime Minister of Grenada, a man with decided Communist leanings, has staged coup and taken over the government.The Prime Minister, Maurice Bishop, has been placed under house arrest. After about a week, Maurice Bishop and some of his supporters are lined up against a wall and shot. This event, and subsequent events in Grenada, prompts US President Reagan to invade Grenada with the support of several other Caribbean states. The stated purpose of this invasion is to rescue US medical students at St. George's University.

Today Grenada has a democratically elected government, and St. George's University still exists. There are two campuses, one of which is located directly on Grand Anse Beach, just north of the Spice Island Resort. It is on this campus that you will find a wonderful deal on lunch.

Walk in off the beach, and you will find yourself in an open air, stone flagged kitchen. There will be eight to ten ladies working furiously over four, six-burner professional stoves. The menu is basic, and leans heavily on chicken, fish, and rice. The day's selections are scratched on a chalk board, though they don't vary from day to day.

For EC$10, about US$3.75, you can get a chicken breast sandwich on a wonderful, made-on-site bun, plus a glass of sorrell or ginger beer. EC$5, about US$1.90, gets you a big bowl of chunky soup. Sit yourself at the counter looking out over the beach, or get your meal for take away.

The lady at the end of the counter will take your money. She'll drop it into a white plastic bucket at her side that serves as her cash register. Don't try to pay in big bills, and don't try to pay in any currency other than EC$.

The restaurant at St. George's University is good, filling, cheap, and absolutely fresh. This is a place frequented by students, taxi drivers, and people drawn in from the beach by the tantalizing smell. This is not elegant dining, but the food is as good as anything else on the beach, for half the price.

FOOTNOTES:
1. Sorrell is tart, red non-alcoholic drink made from the leaves of the sorrell tree. It is popular in many of the island of the Caribbean.
2. EC$ - East Caribbean dollar, current exchange rate is US$1 = EC$2.67.

The Pirate Cove is the restaurant on the grounds of the Grand View Inn. It's a decent place for dinner, but not necessarily one that I would go out of my way for.

Ambiance is quite nice. There is a balcony that overlooks Grand Anse beach, and at night you can see the lights of St. George's, the capitol. The waitresses are uniformly sweet and efficient.

You can get a steak here that is flavorful, if rather thin. Opt for the rice, rather than french fries, as the fries taste rather bland.

A steak, along with a beer or two will run you about US$25 with tax and tip.

Tikal has a little bit of everything. If you are past the point of chintzy souvenirs to remember your travels by, Tikal may be the shop for you.

Tikal carries some local artwork, at pretty reasonable prices. There are also reproduction maps suitable for framing.

Indonesian fabric by the yard (expensive) is on sale here, as well as clothing made from this fabric. One of my favorite finds in this store was a shirt made from a flour sack from the local farming collective.

The staff here is very friendly and very helpful. US dollars are accepted here, as are credit cards.

Tikal is located across the street from Art Fabrik and the National Marketing Board store.

I sew and when I travel, I am always on the lookout for fabric stores. Turning fabric from my travels into a favored shirt, or a block in a quilt, is one way for me to stitch up my memories. I particularly like Indonesian batiks, and I was very excited about visiting Art Fabrik.

Art Fabrik makes batik fabric on their own premises. They have some fabric for sale by the yard, but not much. What yardage they do have is limited, not only in length, but in color. I was not able to find a big enough piece to make a shirt.

Their real speciality is ready-to-wear apparel made from their fabrics. Shirts, dresses, and pareos predominate. Be warned - this stuff is expensive. It's gorgeous and each piece is unique, but you pay the price.

Art Fabrik is located around the back and upstairs at #9 Young Street. Even though you probably won't see the address, Art Fabrik is clearly marked. It is across the street from Tikal, another popular shop and next to the Market Board shop.

Art Fabrik takes credit cards, and is open Monday through Saturday.

It was Christmas Day, and I had no money

Well, I had money, just not in any usable form. I had failed to change a traveler’s cheque the day before. I figured that I would change a few US dollars in to East Carribbean dollars with the proprietor of the hotel, but he had not put in an appearance by the time I left for the beach. I wasn’t quite sure what I’d do for lunch - maybe a miracle would happen and I wouldn’t get hungry. At any rate, there was sunshine waiting, and I’d figure something out later.

Christmas Day on Grand Anse beach was quite pleasant. Mali, the Rasta beach chair guy, gave me a speech about the spiritual meaning of Christmas and a good deal on a lounge chair. The sun was hot, the sky was blue, and all was right with the world.

Predictably, around noon I began to feel a bit peckish. All I had in my beach bag was a bottle of water and EC$4 and change. It was a long, uphill, walk back to my apartment.

At one end of Grand Anse beach is a vendors’ market, included in which are a couple of food stalls. I wandered in that direction, not expecting much. It was Christmas, after all, and I only had about EC$4.50, about US$1.75.

There was only one food stall open, and it was here that I made the acquaintance of Janice, proprietor of Janice Shady Heaven Bar. You can’t actually enter Janice’s, it’s much too small. Her place is about 5 feet wide, and 10 feet deep, and it’s crammed with all manner of stuff, from beer to soap to cookies to cigarettes to crisps to toilet paper. She also fries chicken here, and serves hot lunches.

I did what any normal hungry person would do, I threw myself on her mercy. "I have EC$4," I said. "What will that get me?"

Maybe because it was Christmas, maybe I just looked pitiful. I expected to get a small package of cookies, maybe some crisps. Instead, I was offered two big, meaty chicken wings, and a fresh roll. I was in heaven.

Most of the food vendors on Grand Anse beach provide the same meals and snacks, but nobody does it with the joy and enthusiasm of Janice and her daughter. If you stop by, try the muffins. They’re excellent!

Footnote: US$1.00 = EC$2.67

Many of the interesting places in Grenada are, unfortunately, not on a public bus route. That leaves you with a couple of choices when you want to go exploring: you can rent a car, or you can go on a tour.

I don’t recommend renting a car in Grenada unless you are a true glutton for punishment. Roads are narrow, poorly marked, and often on a steep grade. Sidewalks are essentially non-existent, so you are sharing the road with pedestrians - and the occasional herd of cattle. If you do rent a car, make sure your personal relationship can handle it; I saw more than one couple erupt in bitter recriminations over their rental car.

I’ve never been a big fan of group tours. I can’t quite handle the "Everybody on the bus. OK. Everybody off the bus. OK. Here is where to take pictures. OK. Everybody back on the bus." It’s just not my style.

Enter Winfield Gabriel, better known as Pirate. Pirate was recommended to me by his wife, a sweet woman who worked at the hotel where I stayed. Pirate is a taxi driver who also runs Pirate Tours.

I am particularly interested in military history, and when I made my arrangements with Pirate, I told him I wanted to visit the forts on the island, and maybe see some waterfalls and a nutmeg processing plant.

He picked me up the next morning, as arranged. Once I was safely seatbelted into the front seat, I asked him how old he was. Pirate gave me an odd look, and I hastened to explain. "I am interested in the US invasion of Grenada in 1983," I explained. "I just wanted to know if you are old enough to remember it."

Pirate looked at me and said simply, "I was a soldier in the Revolutionary Army."

Pirate took me to three different forts on the island. He showed me where Prime Minister Maurice Bishop and some of his supporters were lined up against a wall and shot in 1983, and gave me a first hand perspective on the US invasion, which was supposed to be about protecting US medical students at St. George’s University.

"You know," he said, "the US students could have left at any time. They weren’t in any danger." Talk about living history!

Pirate also took me to some lovely gardens, a fantastic waterfall, and several spice farms. He is polite, conscientious, and seems to know everyone on the island. And, unlike some, he is a fairly conservative driver. You can either design your own tour, or have Pirate design one for you.

You can contact Pirate by e-mail at wgabriel@caribsurf.com. Once in Grenada, you can call him on his cell phone at 444-4984.