At home in NYC

My favorites... walking through the West Village with a quick stop for breakfast at the Grey Dog's Coffee on Carmine Street. Continuing on for some shopping along the west end of Bleecker Street with a stop for sweets and coffee at the Magnolia Bakery. Later, it might be frites at Pastis, cocktails at Lotus, a pint at Swift's... or any one of 1,000,000 fun options

On the flip side, I was in NYC on 9/11. Memories from that day and those immediately following will never escape my memory. At the time, I was living just off Sixth Avenue, right beneath the path of the plane. I heard it happen and... after figuring out what was going on, stunned, I took a few shots of the damage. You can see them below.

Quick Tips:

If you have any NYC questions, feel free to ask me. I love talking about New York and am happy to act as your guide.

Best Way To Get Around:

Taxis work on a meter. Unless you're going to a major destination or a well-known hotel, know the cross streets (e.g., Sixth Avenue and Fourth Street) to get where you're going. Avoid taxis during rush hour to avoid having the meter work overtime. Unless you're in a huge hurry, take public transportation (.50 no matter the distance or how long it takes to get there). If you are in a rush, plan ahead. Traffic gets bad between 8 am and 10 am and 4 pm and 7 pm.

The lobby is small, but reasonably attractive and the front desk person who checked me in was friendly, explaining where I could find my complimentary breakfast the next morning. Still, when I asked for a non-smoking room with a king size bed, she explained that the hotel didn't have any king rooms (period) and instead, she gave me a choice of one bed or two. I said one and headed upstairs.

This Comfort Inn has only one elevator and it's both small and slow. When you reach your floor, you'll find fire doors to the right and left. On each side, there are only approximately four or five hotel rooms. Hallways are narrow, but clean.

My room made me laugh out loud: teeny-tiny and consumed by a double bed. At the foot of the bed, there was a small unusable desk. The room was so tight the chair couldn’t be pulled out from the desk.

There was a television mounted on a wall stand and one window. To the left, was the small, clean bathroom (shower, no tub).

Thinking that I could get a larger room by asking for a room with two beds, I took the long, slow ride down to the lobby.

My second room was on an even higher floor (Looooooooong elevator ride crammed in with a laundry cart full of sheets and towels). When I opened the door, I groaned. Immediately to the right was a twin bed. "Oh no," I thought, "are there two twin beds??" Taking a few steps into the narrow, oddly shaped room, I found a double bed wedged into an alcove of sorts. There was a narrow closet, a dresser holding a television at the foot of the bed and the bathroom. That was it.

For the price and location, I probably don't have any right to complain, but I will. Furnishings are shabby and the sheets and towels were downright threadbare. I didn't expect a view, but some natural light would have been nice. I definitely didn't want to put my bare feet on the carpet! Finally, and most importantly, I just didn't feel very safe here. When I went out to meet a friend for dinner, I was very worried about the belongings I left in my room. Fortunately, these safety concerns were unfounded.

One positive was the bathroom. Although small and featuring only a shower (no tub), the bathroom was brand new and spotless.

Other positives include a free breakfast (I didn't sample it though as I slept too late) and a great location near several subway lines, Central Park and lots of shopping/restaurants.

Still, would I stay here again? HELL, NO. Fans of hostels and budget motels may like it better than I did though.

Rooms were recently refurbished with a Danish modern twist. My mother misses the older, perhaps more elegant look, however this 20 something likes the blond wood furniture and colorful throw pillows just fine!

Another unique feature of this hotel is that it has a swimming floor (and even more interestingly, it's on a high floor - 27?). Most NYC hotels do not offer this amenity. The UN Plaza also has a fitness center.

Service is excellent - staff members be sure to call you by name and are eager to take care of any special requests that arrive.

The Ambassador Grill serves three meals per day except on Sunday when brunch is offered. It's a bit pricey if you're not using an expense account.

For me, the only downside is the location. Being so far east ensures that unless you're doing business on the east side, you'll take a good number of cabs. The hotel is about a ten minute walk from Grand Central (not that far really).

This restaurant serves high quality meals made with the freshest ingredients and will cook whatever you wish (off the menu) as long as they have the necessary components. Favorites include a custom-selected antipasto (bufalo mozzarella, prosciutto, white bean salad, roasted peppers and provolone), chicken scapariello and either filet mignon entrees. Seafood specialities are also very popular. Service is friendly and attentive.

Avoid other Little Italy tourist traps such as La Mela (dirty, disgusting and overpriced, yet always packed with tourists due to the "unique" family style service concept) and seek out the best including Pellegrino's, its sister restaurant Il Palazzo and Da Nico (great for budget-conscious groups), all in the same two block area.

Delivery is also available.

Great introduction to Indian food if it's new too you. Baluchi's will alter spice levels to suit your taste. Excellent samosas and pakoras.

Inexpensive and enjoyable.

For breakfast, choose from fresh muffins (my favorite: banana blueberry bran toasted and buttered) that taste nothing like the gross Starbucks super-processed kind to a full Grey Dogs breakfast with eggs, pancakes, hash brown potatoes and bacon or sausage. Grey Dog has the full range of espresso drinks, teas and smoothies.

At other points in the day, choose from an eclectic array of sandwiches (everything from PB&J through veggie options like roasted peppers or portobello mushrooms, burgers too), soups, quiches, salads and more.

Grey Dog is a great option for an evening social outing - they serve a nice selection of beers and wines.

Part of the atmosphere are both the musical selections (David Grey, some days; Alicia Keys others) and featured artwork. Grey Dog has a rotating art exhibition and the display pieces are for sale.

Finally, as the name implies, your dog is welcome at Grey Dog as long as he or she is well-behaved. The staff keeps a jar of dog biscuits on hand as treats for those who don't bark.

To get there, take the A, B, C, D, E, F or Q to Washington Square Park OR the 1/9 trains to Christopher Street. Carmine joins Bleecker and 7th Avenue South. Best accessed via the intersection of 6th Avenue and Bleecker Street.

Focusing on the cuisine of the Po River Valley in Italy, it's not a pasta and red sauce joint. Instead, you'll find interesting specialties ranging from white bean ravioli in a balsamic butter reduction (the signature menu item and my personal favorite) to grilled guinea hen served over couscous. Complimentary bruchetta goes beyond the traditional - Po's consists of delicious white beans, olive oil, a touch of red pepper... no tomatoes in sight. Trust me, you won't miss them!

The more traditional entrees - and I hesitate to say that because Po has added interesting twists wherever it makes sense - include spaghetti carbonara, lamb shank and cavatelli with fresh garlic.

Wine selections by the glass or bottle. Many reasonably-priced options.

For the more adventurous, Po offers a per-table tasting menu. A real bargain.

Desserts are innovative... my personal favorite is the affogato with caramel and coffee gelato, but I also love an off-the-menu apple tart. A cheese plate is delicious.

Service is knowledgable and friendly. The menu's descriptions aren't very elaborate so don't be afraid to ask for more information and/or recommendations. The menu is NOT meant to be intimidating.

The room is small and reservations are hard to come by. Try calling one month in advance of your visit, if possible. You can also try taking early (7 pmish) or late (10 pm) seatings. Once in awhile, Po will take walk-ups so don't be afraid to try provided you're a party of two.

If Po won't be able to seat you, have no fear as there are other excellent options right on Cornelia Street (e.g., Home, Pearl or the Cornelia Street Cafe) or around the corner on Bleecker Street.

Note: Po accepts ONLY American Express so bring your Amex or cash.

Some negatives:

Occasionally the door staff gets a bit out of control. They will have a velvet rope out front and one or two security guards controlling access to the bar and restaurant. I was a frequent visitor during the summer of 2001 to see a bartender friend, yet every time, I was asked for identification at the rope and sometimes made to wait.

The food. The menu focuses somewhat on South American cuisine. There is great variability in what comes out of the kitchen - a great salad or burger here, an inedible sandwich there. Hit or miss so I'd stay stick with cocktails.

Staff. As I mentioned, I usually went to Coffee Shop to see a friend. Other staff ranges from attentive and friendly to downright rude. Don't take it personally - many of the people who work there are simply hanging on until the get discovered.

One really nice feature of Coffee Shop, though, is the outdoor seating during summer months. It's a fantastic spot for people-watching if you can deal with the other negatives.

Coffee Shop is very easy to get to. Take the 4, 5, 6, N or R to Union Square.

It probably sounds like I hate the place, but truthfully, I really enjoyed it each of the 100 times I ate there. Bar Pitti is an inexpensive Italian Greenwich Village joint with great food and entertaining people watching. It's tiny and yes, the staff can be incredibly rude, but give the food a try. I enjoy the fresh mozzarella appetizer, the spicy pasta arrabiata (yum!) and the pasta entree with peas, turkey sausage and a bit of cream. My dining companion friends have also raved about the panini.

To get to Bar Pitti via the subway, take the Sixth or Eighth Avenue lines to Washington Square Park and walk south.

Once the restaurant finally opened, I eagerly checked out the posted menu. I thought it was small and overpriced for what was offered. A few (3 or 4) pasta selections, some meat, some seafood. Not enough to take me away from my Cornelia Street favorites, Po and Home.

Last weekend, I finally had the opportunity to try Palma. The dining experience was a great example of the saying "go with your gut."

The dining room of Palma is intimate, rustic and softly lit. I liked the exposed beams and cozy overall feel. The menu is still quite limited, but the prices were lower than I remembered (some pastas in the $11 range and several bottles of wine available for less than $25).

Alas, the food and service were both disappointing. Two of us took the suggestion of our server and ordered spaghetti with bolognese sauce. It's not on the menu, but is instead a combination of two entrees - the spaghetti with pepper (sounds like it could be either simple and delicious or plain) and polenta bolognese (either very tasty or a goopy mess). The pasta bolognese dish looked great, but tasted like... nothing. It had very little meat in it, in fact, which seems odd. My other friend had a calimari and shrimp appetizer for her entree ($15) and it too was disappointing. The breading had very little flavoring and was greasy; the dish itself was served with no accompaniment such as a red sauce. My friend's request for sauce was frowned upon by our server and brought approximately 15 minutes after she asked for it.

Dessert was an unspectacular tiramisu.

Before I wrote this review, I looked around to see what others have to say. Most are favorable, however I noticed that the dishes they describe were not offered during my visit so I can only think that the menu has changed since Palma opened last year.

To get to Palma, take the Sixth or Eighth Avenue subway lines to Washington Square Park, exit at 3rd Street. Walk up to 4th Street (near the Gap) and make almost a u-turn to get onto Cornelia Street. Alt route: 1/9 train to Christopher Street and walk east along either 4th or Bleecker Streets (walk in the direction of the traffic on both of these streets). By cab: a lot of cab drivers won't have a clue how to find Cornelia. Tell them to take Seventh Avenue South and turn left on Bleecker. Cornelia Street is two blocks down on the left.

Fresco is owned by the Scotto family, which is firmly entrenched in the NYC media scene. Rosanna Scotto is a local news anchor and you will frequently see her in the restaurant during her off hours. You'll also spot a celebrity here more often than not. My favorite sighting was Florence Henderson aka Mrs. Brady.

When you first enter, you'll find a bar area with a few tables for those seeking a more casual environment (you still need reservations). The main room is large with a few alcoves to make it slightly more private. Restrooms are upstairs, along with Fresco private dining rooms which are used for special events.

The menus is large, but not overwhelming. Pay special attention to any specials that are offered as they tend to be worthy. Fresco's standard antipasto is incredible. It features all of the usual Italian meats and cheeses, but the flavor and quality are outstanding. Chunks of fresh parmesan, round thick slices of salami and paper thin prosciutto.

If you have the opportunity to sample Fresco's timpano (translation: drum) and you enjoy pasta with rich flavors, don't pass it up. The timpano is a baked pastry shell stuffed with penne, sausage, eggplant, some cheese and tomato (as well as other Italian treats that happen to be on hand!). It's rich and delicous.

Other selections... calimari is always enjoyed and is good for sharing. The fresh Fresco bread is a treat, but filling. The pasta of the day is usually winning. I personally love the fresh grilled sausage entree, served as a magnificent coil on greens. The only entree I've tried that I'm not wild about is the brick chicken. It's not bad, but not very exciting either.

At many of my favorite restaurants, I find that I'm too full for dessert by the time the menu is offered again. Not at Fresco where I always save room for the Bananas Rotolo which combines some of my very favorite flavors: bananas and butterscotch with whipped cream. The brownie fudge sundae is also a great way to bust a diet.

To get to Fresco, take the E, F, or 6 to 53rd Street and use the Madison Avenue exit. Walk south. You can also go via the Sixth Avenue line to Rockefeller Center and walk east.

Next door to Fresco, you'll find Fresco on the go which is their version of a lunch counter. It's pricey compared to your average NYC lunch spots, but some items offered are worth it. I like the white pizza, the lunch size timpano and the meatball sandwich. Other friends enjoy the made-to-order salads. Expect to spend $8-12 for lunch.

If you'd like to review the full menu, visit the Fresco web site

Approximately two years ago, my friends and I were looking for something new. We were sick of our old favorites and somehow we found Bottino. It's quite out of the way in the far reaches of Chelsea, but absolutely worth the trip. Additionally, since our first visit, more bars and restaurants have opened in the vicinity making it more fun to travel to.

The vibe in Bottino is cool, but unintimidating. The lights are a bit low and there's a great long metal bar for cocktailing, but it's also just right for meeting up with your friends. No stress.

You have a few options as to where to dine within Bottino. They have a pretty dining room that is a bit formal... but not really. They also have a year round garden that's very cool. Don't worry - it's well-heated.

The food is simple - a few pastas, some meat, some seafood - and my friend and I enjoy sharing plates. During one visit, my friend and I split the antipasto, the beef entree, dessert and a bottle of wine and for two women, it was the perfect amount of food.

You can take the 8th Avenue subways (A, C, E) to 23rd Street, but be prepared for a walk! Those west side avenues are far apart. You might just want to take a cab.

While you're in the neighborhood, check out a bar partially owned by author Sebastian Junger, Half King, on 23rd Street/10th Avenue. Tell bartenders Eamon and Melissa that I sent you. ;-)

The front room features a long bar with seating (one large sharable booth and several areas with bar stools). In the back, you'll find one huge communal table surrounded by six or so booths that will hold parties of six or seven.

The music you'll hear varies - on the weekend, it's DJ-spun popular music. Other nights, you can listen in on a traditional Irish seisun with musicians of all ages jamming on folk tunes.

The crowd also varies from night to night. It gets a bit crowded on the weekend and on those nights, the people tend to be just out of college. During the week, I like the diversity you'll find: older Northern Europeans, locals, tourists, everything. Much more fun those nights!

If Swifts is too crowded, try the sister bar, Puck Fair (Lafayette and Houston across from the Puck Building) which is a bit more spacious because it has three levels. Same great drink options, a bit more food.

Swifts offers a few food choices. Favorites include sausage rolls and a pizza that tastes great around 3 am.

To get there, take the 6 train to Astor Place. On Lafayette, walk against the traffic (it heads uptown, you want to go downtown) until you reach 4th Street. Cross the street and the bar will be on your right on 4th Street between Bowery and Lafayette.

Yamak also carries items by well-known designers. I purchased my favorite pair of jeans here - a pair of faded, low-rise Jill Stuart that lace up the front and have exactly the right amount of stretch.

The purses you'll find here are incredible and unique. Something for a variety of price ranges. Names you'll recognize, but also up-and-comers you should check out.

Yamak carries excellent accessories too - jewelry, hair ornaments, interesting shoes, etc.

The store is tiny and has just one fitting room, but that's generally not a problem as Yamak tends to be frequented by Greenwich Village locals and well-informed international visitors.

To get to Yamak, take the 1/9 train to Christopher Street and walk south to Bleecker Street. Turn right and it's just ahead on the right.

You can also take the Sixth or Eighth Avenue lines to Washington Square and walk west along Bleecker Street.

To me, Peculier (for some reason it is spelled with an e, not an a) is a great big yuck within a strip of bars in the crowded part of Bleecker Street that range from "decent" to "horrendous". On the decent end is the Elbow Room which is a pretty good place to see a variety of live music acts for a low or no cover. Peculier Pub is at the other end of the spectrum.

Downright dirty with surly staff. Frequented by NYU students of the worst variety.

In its favor, I will say that they have a huge beer selection, but that's the nicest thing I can think of regarding this hell hole.

Gingerman's location makes it prime post-work real estate. Such a shame that the bar attracts a dull, homogenous crowd and that the stench of stale cigar smoke turns plenty a stomach.

This is the kind of place where I'll go if a group of people I really like choose it, but I'd never choose it myself. Every guy is white-bread and wearing a tie. Girls still talk about sorority life. It's just not for me, but maybe you'll like it.

In its favor:

- They serve food. Most of it has an English pub slant. It seems over-priced to me.
- They sell cigars. This is a negative to me, but you might like cigars and think "cool!"
- It's a reasonably large bar. Still, it gets packed after work and then it's dead on weekends.
- Lots of beer varieties to choose from.

My first trip to Le Bar Bat was for a private function. I thought "hmm, interesting space; lots of nooks and crannies" and then I got hammered at the open bar and didn't have any deep thoughts that night.

Another night, a friend suggested checking it out rather than heading to our usual spots. All I could remember was "hmm, interesting space; lots of nooks and crannies."

What a mistake. Oh, regret. Cheese galore. Plenty of older singles macking on each other. Women from the 'burbs with big hair, wearing odd bits of black lace, gold lame and gobs of make-up. Men with gold chains nestled in their chest hair.

Drinks, if you order them even after viewing the crowd, are overpriced and watered down. Expect to pay a minimum of $7 even for a bottled beer. Cocktails are $8 and up.

Please trust me: do not go to Le Bar Bat!

Nothing against chain retailers. I have my share of Banana Republic and BCBG in my closet. But why go to NYC and spend your time shopping in a mall (which is a strange thing to even have in NYC - we wish it would go away) when there are so many unique store to explore.

There's nothing worth shopping for at the Manhattan Mall. Please believe me. Don't you have The Limited where you live? Sure you do. How about Lidz? Yes, they sell baseball caps where you come from.

Walk around SoHo and keep some unknown designer in business. Go to Greenwich Village and find something one-of-a-kind to call your own.

Puck Fair, though, offers more variety in atmosphere, libations and scene. How? This is a much larger bar with three distinct areas. On the main floor, it's very pub-by with several "snugs" (aka cozy semi-enclosed booths) on the right side and a very long bar on the left. Toward the back, you'll find stairs up and down. Go up and sit in the small balcony area for a bird's eye view and fun people-watching. This is where the DJ sits. Go down for a more intimate evening. It's a bit darker and quieter. Downstairs, it can get smoky, but in general, this is my favorite area of the bar.

For drinks, beers are a wonderful choice as Puck Fair offers lots of variety. I like an occasional Guinness or Newcastle, myself. You can, of course, also get wine or cocktails or soft drinks.

The food selection is much more varied at Puck Fair vs. Swift. Salads and soups appear along with the heartier stuff like sausage rolls and toasties.

What I like best about Puck Fair (esp. vs. Swift) is the crowd. Although it gets just as crowded at peak times, it generally consists of slightly older people (mid to late 20s and 30s) instead of the just-out-of-college crowd. It's a more grown-up group more interested in conversation than hooking up in the darkest corner they can find!

To get there, take the B, D, F or Q to Lafayette or the 6 to Bleecker Street.

Back in 1995 or 1996, you'd go to H&H to drink beer in a bar filled with all kinds of people. Bikers, brawlers, students, actors... it didn't matter. You were there for a "one whiskey, one scotch and one beer" while the leather-clad bartenders clogged on the bar.

Hollywood showed up and then so did everybody else. It all started long before I got there with JFK Jr. But when Julia Roberts came by, drank and then put her bra in with all of the others... the legend grew.

Still, you should go and check it out. Since owner Alan Dell passed on, his widow Michelle has run the place. Lest you think a feminine touch has changed the bar... stop right there. Michelle is as tough as nails when she wants to be.

First of all, the location. It's a little hard to find except for the doorman and velvet rope stationed outside during peak hours. This part of Greenwich Village is a little short on nightlife of this sort. Other bars in the area are either dives, aimed at the gay community of both.

Halo usually has more of a hip hop mentality. You'll find people of many varieties all looking their ghetto fab best.

I have seen the aforementioned doormen be exceptionally tough on people and also be subjective about charging covers. One night, my date and I showed up for drinks. The couple in front of us was hassled and then let in with a cover. We were admitted with no wait and no cover. Odd, but... not unheard of.

Once inside, results may vary. Some nights, the place grooves. Great music fun people who are relaxed, dancing a bit while they sip their expensive cocktails. Another night, my date and I were largely alone in one part of the lounge yet we were told we could only sit if we bought a bottle.

My recommendation? Go, look around, give it a chance while having one drink. If you hate it, leave, but maybe try one more time.

Presently (spring/summer 2002), Halo has a good after work (and beyond) hip hop party on Wednesday nights. It opens early (6 pm) and stays open as late as NYC law allows (4 am). Food is available, however if you want a table, you will need a reservation.

In this part of my journal, I usually give subway directions, however at Halo you'll feel better showing up in some sweet ride.

Although you'll still find nights like that at XVI, go for the music. My favorite is Jason Beverly (aka DJ Sorcerer) who usually spins a great variety of hip-hop (including some old school stuff), reggae and dancehall. Jason often handles Saturdays, however check local listings like Time Out for more info.

XVI is unique for NYC in that it's a lounge with dancing. Due to the old cabaret laws, that's tough to find. Here you can hang at the bar, sit on couches talking with friends or shake your groove thing.

There are some issues with this place. First and foremost is security which can be kind of wacky. They restrict comings and goings between the upstairs and downstairs bars so much that if you are not careful, you could be separated from your friends for awhile (oh well, you'll live, right? they serve drinks on both levels). Second, although I can usually talk my way out of paying a cover, not everyone is that lucky. Covers are usually small though - $5.

The best homestyle treats in all of NYC. This tiny bakery on the western end of Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village serves up awesome cakes, cookies, pies, etc. My favorites include the simple cupcakes with buttercream frosting, apple (or blueberry) crumble and banana cream pudding. You will also find an assortment that usually includes carrot cake, German chocolate cake, red velvet cake... the list goes on and on

Have a latte or homemade lemonade while you're there, but be prepared to enjoy it outside on one of the neighborhood benches. The Magnolia Bakery offers only limited seating so as to accomodate the line that invariably snakes through the tiny shop.

The service is a toss-up. Some days, the staff is friendly and helpful. Other times, you'll be sorry you bothered... until you take your first bite of the cupcake, banana pudding or whatever you were lucky enough to buy.

401 Bleecker Street (corner of W. 11th Street). To get there, your best bet is to take the 1/9 train to Christopher Street/Sheridan Square. While standing on Seventh Avenue South, orient yourself by looking at the traffic which flows in a downtown direction. Walk with the traffic until you reach Bleecker Street. Turn right and you'll be heading, for the most part, west. [Bleecker does turn to the northwest if you walk on it long enough.] The Magnolia bakery is on the NE corner of the intersection approximately five or six blocks from the corner of Seventh and Bleecker.