Panama: Much More than a Canal

Spaniards first hacked a path through the Panamanian jungle in the 1500’s -- seeking the gold and other riches rumored to lie on the Pacific side of the isthmus. By 1856, there was a railroad linking the Atlantic and Pacific coasts and, in 1914, the Panama Canal.

In about an hour and a half, in Panama City, you can walk past relics of all of those centuries. And, the 21st as well. This is a city where modern glass towers mingle with the ruins of merchants’ mansions that Morgan’s pirates torched in 16 71. Panama’s now a Republic so open to its citizens that the Presidential Palace --- an ornate Spanish-styled mansion originally built in 1673 and reconsructed in 1923 --- can be walked by and photographed at close range by just about anyone.

Panama’s ‘Old City’ is a ‘must-visit’, for sure, with marvelously preserved old churches and muncipal buildings. But there’s also an ‘even-older city’ : Panama la Vieja. This was THE first city; only stone and masonry ruins now, but where Europeans established their first-ever settlement on the Pacific coast, possibly as early as 1519.

Visiting the Canal is also a MUST: We’ll offer some options.

For a ride on the Panama Canal Railway, see "jemery's" journal on Colon.

Quick Tips:

Via Espana, billed by the tourism magazine in my hotel room as a ‘glittering upscale shopping Mecca’ was, in my opinion, anything but. I saw only a busy, pedestrian-unfriendly traffic artery; yes, there were some multi-storied shops offering name brand goods, but there were also car dealers, banks and finance companies, and other decidedly nonluxe businesses. The del Carmen Church, at the center of the hotel district where Ave. Central ends at Via Espana begins, was a pleasure to look at: Pure white except for some blue and red highlights, but virtually impossible to photograph due to ugly high-tension cables in the foreground.

There ARE hotels here which will likely cost you less than the Radisson I was staying in.

Best Way To Get Around:

Hailed-off-the-street taxis in Panama City are cheap: from U.S. to depending on what zone you’re travelling in. Hotel-provided ‘taxis’ are actually drivers under contract to the hotels (and often driving cars owned by the hotels); you’ll pay considerably more for them but the hotel stands behind their reliability. These drivers normally contract to take you to your destination and then bring you back at an appointed time, waiting with you if necessary.

Except along the waterfront, Panama City is not especially pedestrian-friendly; drivers turning right behind your back can be a serious menace. Still, I was able to walk to many of the places I wanted to go, including the Old Community.

The Radisson Royal Panama is one of those world-wide franchise hotels that commands higher room prices than many of us customarily pay but, in doing so, offers the peace of mind that an established brand can bring you in countries with histories of political instabilility or where you're not sure of tourist amenities. You expect a quiet room, comfortable bed, hospitable bar, quality dinner, and security.

Early on, I learned that Panama City now has political stability, tourist-safe sidewalks, very hospitable people and all sorts of superb restaurants and hotels, some just as comfortable and secure but less expensive than the one I chose.

Still, I’ve no regrets about staying at this Radisson. It’s in a central location: immediately adjacent to Panama City’s World Trade Center and within a few blocks of most of the important banks. It’s perhaps a ten-mintue walk from the waterfront. It’s a modern --- some might call it ‘ultramodern’ --- mid-rise hotel with 112 rooms and 16 suites spread out in a gentle s-curve-shaped building perhaps half-a-hunrded meters tall. I had a very large double-bedded room, with an executive-sized desk with three phone jacks, a computer data port, and safe, For recreation, there was a midsized TV with computer-game controller and free movies.

An in-house health club, open to all guests, offered a fully-equipped gym --- which I didn’t use --- and a Jacuzzi which I did use but found to be only lukewarm and relatively anemic in terms of water-power. The large outdoor swimming pool had no curfew: If I wanted to swim long after dark, and float on my back looking up at tropical stars, no one would hassle me.

The hotel was suffering from a very low ocupancy rate when I was there. One of the principal restaurants was closed, and the bar was also closed during much of my stay; drinks could be had only through Room Service. One could, however, have drinks served at poolside or in the poolside restaurant rather than drinking alone in the room.

There were some service glitches at that one still-open restaurant, but otherwise, employees at this Radisson were attentive and acutely customer-aware. They wanted to make me welcome. Service at the front desk was crisp and efficient, I’d rate bell staff well above average, and the petite Panamanian woman attending the health club was a gem. I was here on a frequent-flier coupon that entitled me to a rate of just $87 per night; the normal rate would have been $165. At my reduced rate, I felt I got FAR better service than I’d paid for. Even paying the full ‘rack’ rate, I would probably consider the Radisson Royal Panama a hotel to return to.

However, the Intercontinental, little more than a mile away, is a formidable competitor for both my dollar and my recommendation.

The Royal Grill, the Radisson Hotel’s principal restaurant, is a pleasure to enter: a bright, cheerful half-moon shaped space, naturally lighted by an arc of floor-to-ceiling glass overlooking the pool deck and Panama City skyline. It would have been stunning had it been on the top floor, but was still appealing just 25-30 feet above street level. Bright tablecloths and wooden chairs with gaily-upholstered seats added to the charm.

Food was ok --- usually good and occasionally very good --- but not gourmet. On the other hand, prices were extremely reasonable for dining in an upscale hotel. The most expensive main course was jumbo shrimp in Thai curry sauce for $19.50, Beef sirloin filets or medallions with herbs were $12.50. The absolute taste-and-value standout was Corvina con Aceitunas al’ Arrabiata...thick, juicy filets of sea bass with olives and a spicy red tomato-based sauce, also at $12.50. Unless you’re a hearty eater, skip the salad before this one!

Salads were a la carte. At $5.50, the ensalada Griega was as good as any I’ve had in Chicago’s Greek restaurants. The Caesar was ‘ok’. A salad combined with the huge smoked salmon appetizer plate ($9.50) was a pleasing alternative to a full dinner: I had it twice during my stay.

Most of the wines were unfamilar, but I did find two old Chilean favorites: Concha y Toro Cabernet and Chardonnay --- ubelievably priced at just $12 by the bottle --- and Casillero del Diablo Cabernet or Sauvignon Blanc at $17.

Now the bad news: The Royal Grill suffers from a maddening inconsistency in the quality of service and, occasionally, the food itself. One night, service would be prompt and professional --- even my cold smoked salmon arrived under cover on a silver tray --- and timed to perfection. On other nights, the lone headwaitress/hostess would be attending to other business while I tried to get someone’s attention. Part of the problem was that the bar and restaurant were two floors apart: Would you believe that my cocktail orders were transmitted by cellphone? And apparently brought upstairs by Room Service?

The Royal Grill has LOTS of potential. On my last night, the hostess disappeared entirely, leaving me to order --- in very halting Spanish --- from a young assistant waiter who spoke no English. My dinner of tenderloin filets in olive oil with a pesto-like sauce was served impeccably: hot, cooked exactly to my medium-rare request, and accompanied by enough carrots, broccoli and toasted spinach leaves to make up for my not ordering salad. It was great!

How to fairly rate a place this inconsistent? My advice: Try Royal Grill once and form your own conclusion. Or, for a risk-free trial, come here for the breakfast buffet. Offering far more than the typical ‘Continental Breakfast’, it’s a steal at $5.50.

For the sea bass and smoked salmon, and possibly the unusual beef tenderloin presentation, I highly recommend the Royal Grill. Otherwise, it’s ...

’Elegant dining in an informal setting’: That’s the only way to describe my experience at the Bay View Restaurant. It’s a large, airy room with floor-to-ceiling glass on three sides; a bright, cheerful place with live music already playing at 5p.m. on the evening I visited. (But not LOUD music, fortunately.)

I was greeted, seated, and presented with a perfectly made Manhattan cocktail within three minutes of arrival. Amazingly, I was shown to an oceanfront window table --- one of the most desirable in the house --- despite that fact that it was a table for four and I was alone.

The most expensive main course on the menu was ‘Jack Daniels New York Strip Steak’ at $22. Other options included Seafood au gratin at $15, Eight-ounce grilled salmon in mango cream sauce at $16.50. ‘Shrimps on Five Herbs’ at $18.50 and ‘Tempting 8-oz. Sea Bass on Butter-shrimp Sauce with a Bacon Stick’ at $14. Somewhat less appealing --- at least to me --- was ‘Pork Ribs on Prune Sauce’ at $12.

The only worthwhile-looking poultry entry was a 10-oz. grilled chicken in wine sauce at $15.

My own dinner that night was ‘Pistachio-crusted’ beef medallions at $16. Two perfectly-cooked, almost fork-tender, four-ounce filets with a delightfully crunchy coating that was, in fact, ground-up pistachio nuts crisped under the grill.

Main courses come with a simple house salad and choice of potato or vegetable. For an extra $7, I chose the a la carte salad bar which included all the standard greens plus melon balls, assorted cold meats, and some delicious cold smoked salmon.

Appetizers --- ‘entrees’ on Spanish menus --- included the usual ceviche and shrimps plus some uniquely Panamanian twists: Try ‘Panamanian Chicken Soup with Yam, Coriander and Yucca with Rice’.

There was an ample wine list, including several quality reds and whites by the glass as well as the bottle.

Bay View Restaurant isn’t even the Hotel Intercontinental’s premier fine-dining venue, but it draws raves from this reviewer --- who doesn’t need formality but appreciates fine food, drink and service. I also appreciated being able to order dinner as early as 5p.m. --- a very early hour for Latin American restaurants.

Bay View offers special theme dinners from 6:30 to 11:00 every Tuesday and Thursday and is open for buffet lunch Monday-Saturday.

Hotel Intercontinental Miramar is on Balboa Ave., the main oceanfront traffic artery, about halfway between city center and the causeway toward the airport. It adjoins the wharf leading to Miramar Marina.

In hour and a half long stroll along Panama City’s waterfront, I walked from the 21st Century to the 17th. Avenida Balboa, which follows the seawall in a sweeping arc around Panama Bay, gives one a marvelous overview of both the old and new cities.

I started in the Marbella District, a residential neighborhood of sleek high-rises mingling with the pastel-painted, tile-roofed villas typical of the Spanish Caribbean. When you reach the waterfront, the entire downtown skyline will spread out before you. At the far end of the bay, you’ll see a peninsula with low, red-roofed buildings punctuated by church steeples. This is Casco Viejo, the Old City (or ‘Old Colony’); your ultimate destination. It’s about a three-mile walk.

The futuristic, blue-white tower with vast expanses of glass is the Miramar Hotel Intercontinental; worthy of visiting. Its pool deck is big enough to be a city park and its oceanfront restaurant served me the best dinner of my trip. Directly offshore is the Miramar Marina, where the really wealthy park their yachts.

Further along, there’s a pleasant little Spanish-style park, Parque Anayanis, with plenty of benches, shade trees and people to watch and photograph. Linger here awhile; it will be your last patch of shade until you reach the Seafood Market.

This market, el Mercado de Mariscos, marks the end of your oceanfront excursion. It scarcely resembled a ‘market’ the mid-day I was there ... more of a place for fishermen to store their equipment and work on their boats. You could always find a sea bird or two to serve as props in your photos.

Beyond the seafood market and before the Old City is Santa Ana. A chaotic place of narrow streets and the corrugated-tin structures so common to poor Latin American barrios. It also contains what passes for Panama City’s Chinatown and many multi-balconied row apartments, some quaint and attractive, some not.

This is an easy place to get lost in. If you do, walk toward the first open water you see. This will put you on the seawall, where you can get your bearings. (My wanderings took me directly to the Presidential Palace, easy to find on any map.) If you happen on an old streetcar track, follow it. Going north with take you back downtown. Going south will take you into the heart of the old city and eventually to the museums and municipal theater on the waterfront.

This is a long, hot walk but otherwise easy; a few moderately challenging hills and paved sidewalks all the way. It’s by far the best way to acquaint yourself with the multiple personalities of Panama City.

Much of It dates from 1673, two years after pirates destroyed the original Panama.

(Don’t confuse Casco Viejoanama Viejo: One is still a vibrant community; the other nothing but stone-and-masonry ruins in a partially-restored historical park.) Travel writers generally consider the Old City to be a ‘must-see’. I’m certainly glad I spent a few hours there. Approaching from coastal highway and seafood market, the Presidential Palace complex is the first of the area’s major attractions that you’ll encounter --- and also one of the most appealing. It’s a sparkling white mansion in the Moorish style, easy to approach but, due to its proximity to the seawall, difficult to photograph. I found it heavily guarded, with an armed policeman on every nearby corner, but each one politely waved me by. I found a small, quiet park overlooking the bay, less than a hundred yards from the President’s front door; guards appeared willing to let me linger there as long as I cared to. The Palace was originally built in 1673 and reconstructed in 1923. If you’re carrying a camera, I’d suggest showing it to each guard and asking, se permite?. It IS permitted, but they appeared pleased that I’d asked first.

The majestic Catedral Metropolitano, consecrated in 1798, faces an equally-inviting plaza where Panama’s Declaration of Idependence was signed. Three of the bells from the Cathedral’s tower still survive. Nearby is the 1671-built San Jose Church, said to be reknowned for its golden altar. The old a Merced Church along the Avenida Central was just discharging Sunday worshippers as I walked by. Out of deference to them --- and to my 100-speed film --- I refrained from going inside. I did, however, notice one disarmingly modern note: the nave was outlined in neon lights! Museums and the attractive, though relatively plain, Municipal Theater are at the far end of the central avenue. Don’t miss the Paseo de Esteban, a block-long pedestrian promenade shielded from the sun by flower-bedecked arches. It’s a great place to relax before starting the walk back. The easiest way to enjoy the Old City is by doing as I do: ‘Sightseeing by wandering around’. When you see an especially appealing side street, just turn down it. I’ll have to admit some disappointment over the diffence between some of the breathless descriptions found in a few of the tourist guides with what I perceived to be reality: For every centuries-old architectural gem, there were two or three blocks of old balconied-but-battered New Orleans-like apartment buildings reminiscent of the seedier streets beyond the French Quarter. That said, it would have a shame to have been in Panama City without lingering here for a few hours.

First settled in 1519, Old Panama was the first Spanish community on the New World’s Pacific Coast. After British pirate Henry Morgan sacked and burned the city in 1671, Spain rebuilt it on a new, more easily defended site six miles away, in what is now called ‘Colonial Panama’ or Casco Viejo.

Though the original Panama was a relatively large community, it was mostly built of wood --- all that remains at the Panama Viejo historic monument are ruins of the few stone or masonry buildings: the Cathedral, the ‘Town Hall’, a 1640’s-era mansion that once served as the Bishop’s residence, a convent, and two houses built by one of the era’s wealthiest families. All are spread throughout a large park, as noteworthy for magnificent trees as for history: In good sunlight, the juxtaposition of stark stone ruins against rich green foliage can make for dramatic photograpy.

Don’t miss the small museum near the park entrance; it contains a large scale model of Old Panama as it was thought to have appeared in the pre-Morgan 1600’s. A 6-7 minute taped narration, available in English, guides you through the community’s history and sudden demise. There are also many archaeological artifacts, including human remains. Admission is free with your park ticket, which costs U.S. $2.

If you’re looking for a gift for someone back home, also spend some time touring the native craft market adjoining the museum and park; you’ll find some necklaces, bracelets and hand-made textiles that are far superior to the usual tourist junk.

Panama la Vieja has been a National Historical Site since 1976 and is currently operated by a non-profit organization advised by the Kiwanis Club, National Institute of Culture, the tourism bureau and a local bank. It’s a $2 taxi ride from the Cesar Park Hotel and Casino, $3 from the more centrally-located Radisson.

A Safety Issue

Before it became a National site, a large squatters’ settlement developed along its north side. Although Panama City is generally considered safe for tourists, this area is NOT. In fact, it added a very useful new word to my Spanish vocabulary: malientes.

As I sat resting after a walk to the park’s far edges, a policeman appeared at my side and pointed to my camera. ‘No foto’, he said, pointing to the sqautters’ hovels. I wondered why --- would the city be embarrassed? Then I noticed that four husky young men had gathered in an area I’d just left. ‘Malientes,’ said the cop. ‘Malientes.’ When he slowed his Spanish down enough for me to understand some words, I realized why no photos: If the bad guys saw my camera, it would become theirs. They were Malientes.

What’s even better than riding a ship through the Panama Canal?

Coming back to Panama and seeing the operation as the lock-keeper sees it.

You can do this either at the Panama City end --- on the Pacific coast where most of the good hotels are --- or at Colon, on the Atlantic (Caribbean) end.

Miraflores Locks are about a 25-minute taxi ride from downtown Panama City; the larger and busier Gatun Locks are a similar distance from Colon. Both have visitors’ ‘grandstands’ directly across from the lock-keeper’s control tower and right above all the action.

There’s something fascinating about watching a football-field-length ocean liner being lifted 85 feet up --- in two separate stages at the Pacific end but in one fell swoop from the Atlantic. In my opinion, no tourist visiting Panama should leave without visiting one or the other.

We went first to Miraflores, but were disappointed: No ships passed during the hour that we were there and none were scheduled for another several hours. My driver/guide had access to shipping schedules, and had warned me about this; he wanted me to pay another $30 or so for a city tour so we’d reach the locks closer to the arrival time of the first ship. Lesson: Tourists, too, can call in advance for schedules. Get the phone number from your hotel concierge.

A day later, at Gatun, we hit the jackpot: six ships in less than two hours.

Drivers recommended by the hotels usually work for the hotels -- not the taxi companies --- and prefer to be hired for several hours rather than just taking people point-to-point. Jorge --- the hotel guy --- asked $30 to take me to Miraflores Locks, wait for me, then bring me back. I’d have gotten there for far less by flagging a taxi off the street, but getting back might have been a different story. Jorge was there when I was ready to go home; there were no taxis anywhere near. My $30 also bought me a short tour of Panama City via a different route than we’d taken outbound.

It’s now possible to take a day-trip THROUGH the canal. At least one company, Argo Tours, was offering partial transits for U.S. $90 and ocean-to-ocean transits for $135. In January, 2002, these trips operated Saturdays only, departing at 7:30 a.m. from the Port of Balboa.

The tourist facility at Miraflores has bathrooms, shade, and safe drinking water. It’s a great place to spend a few hours while you’re in Panama. But for an even better spot for viewing canal action, see my soon-to-be posted journal on Colon, and the Gatun Locks.