Belfast: Exploring the City Behind the Stories

Of course it depends on what you're looking to experience, my goal was to find great traditional music, to understand what I could in the short time I was there about the Troubles, take in some history, and as is de riguer in all of Ireland, indulge in a pint or two of Guinness along the way. In the short few days I spent in Belfast I had a bit of all.

Quick Tips:

Don't be intimidated by what you may have read or heard about Belfast. For the most part, it's a very safe city, much more so as a traveller. Ask questions of the locals, but be sensitive to the fact that they just might not want to give you a complete history lesson or discuss issues close to home. When in doubt on taking photos - ask before clicking the shutter.

Best Way To Get Around:

Renting a car can be a bit hit or miss (pun intended). If you're not used to driving on the left, you should be sure you can rise to challenge without harm to yourself or others. It's the best choice if you have a limited time to explore and want to get off the main tourist tracks. In the city, it's easiest to walk, bus, cab, or bike. Public transportion is easy, cheap, & plentiful. Overall, I prefer walking to get a better flavor for the neighborhood...you're more apt to take in the smells, the voices, and just to be in the moment (and after all, isn't that why we travel?).

Located just a few blocks off Shaftsbury Square, Botanic Lodge Guesthouse is a serene little haven from the tumult of the city. Redeeming qualities include fluffy down pillows & comforters, a quiet avenue near both Queen's University & the Botanic Gardens, and an Irish breakfast that just may keep you full for 3 days.

The Botanic Lodge was full of antiques, a genial proprietress (Mrs. Moore-Will), and if you're looking for a good central location from which to explore Belfast, you've found the spot. There are seventeen rooms from which to choose, but only two have "ensuite" (in the room) bathrooms, if that's important to you, make sure and ask when making reservations.

An easy fifteen-minute walk to central Belfast, this B&B offers the weary traveller the simplicity of a warm bed and a delicious breakfast from which to garner the energy needed for an ambitious day's sightseeing.

Reservations can be made directly or through the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, a good reference site for Belfast is here. Pictures below from website.

Madison's Hotel

In a lovely tree-lined neighborhood on Botanic Avenue, close to Queen's University, you'll find Madison's Hotel. The standard rooms are just that, but they are clean and comfortable. They have a nightclub and a great restaurant on premise, so you hardly need leave the hotel if you were so inclined. Full Irish breakfast is included, served until 11am. The food here is excellent, and you'll find the service to be of the same quality.

This is a good central spot for exploring the city; you're roughly a fifteen minute walk from the central downtown area, including City Hall, the Opera House, The Crown Saloon, and a bevy of stores and pubs.

Walking back to our hotel along Belfast's "Golden Mile" after a day of exploring, we came across Cayenne, much to our extreme fortune. Somehow the food deities were looking out for us, as it turned out that Cayenne was formerly the location of the Michelin-starred, Roscoff's. The same owners, Irish celebrity chefs, Paul and Jeanne Rankin, still run and cook in it's current incarnation. The Rankin's have long been on the BBC cooking show, Gourmet Ireland which highlights the best of new Irish cooking. Gourmet Ireland has also aired in the US on PBS. For a food and wine obsessed epicurean such as myself, this was a bit of nirvana.

I'll try and quiet the swooning...on to the menu. The pictures below show the menu as it was, but I'm fairly certain it rotates, so just go prepared to enjoy whatever is in season. The offerings lean towards a melange of classic French influenced with a Pan-Asian accent.

We started with the goat cheese and ratatouille pizza, which had me doing an involuntary sort of yummy-tummy dance (still seated at least), to the dismay of my friend. It was good, I couldn't help it. Try as I might, I don't recall what my entree was, but I do remember it was one of the night's specials...and it too was really tasty. They have a well-rounded wine list and offer healthy pours in nice stemware. By evening's end, we were both so full that dessert seemed impossible. Not ones to give up so easily, we settled on sharing some sorbet. The other items looked so good though, so plan ahead and save room!

The atmosphere was quite serene, the front windows were frosted shielding diners from the busy street outside, there was also some amazing pieces of modern art intermixed with the rest of the decor. Granted, the meal totalled up to be rather pricey, but for a splurge it's entirely worth seeking out Cayenne.

Murals of Belfast: Documenting the Troubles

When I mentioned to people that I was planning on going to Belfast I was met with puzzled and/or concerned looks. Belfast is known in the U.S. primarily for what has come to be known as the Troubles.

Most of us have just a piece-meal understanding of why there has been so much fighting and death during this lengthy conflict. I wanted to know more & undertook this in part by booking a Black Taxi Tour through a fellow named Michael. Both Protestant & Catholic drivers guide these tours, so there is little to no danger in driving through both areas for tourists.

Other spots on this tour include: Belfast City Hall, Albert Clock, Harland and Wolf Shipyard (the Titanic was built here in 1909), The Peace Line, Queens University, The Crown Bar, The Europa (the most bombed hotel in Europe), The Grand Opera House, & more.

If you round up a few other people to go with you can defray some of the cost.

The Crown Liquor Saloon

Dating back to 1826, the lushly Victorian Crown Liquor Saloon remains to this day a thriving pub and historical landmark. Not to be missed on your stop in Belfast, if only to sit in one of the infamous "snugs". What is a snug you ask? Well, the Crown has ten stunningly carved enclosed wooden boxes with doors you can shut for privacy. Historically these snugs were built to provide anonymity for those perhaps meeting for romance or for propriety's sake. Inside the snugs are old-fashioned metal plates for lighting matches, and bells to ring for service from the bartenders.

Don't be shy about approaching those already ensconced in one of the lovely booths, it's a terrific way to meet new folks and share the convivialty. We ended up sharing several pints with a motley crew from Scotland, Wales, & England. See for yourself via the live video link.