More Bangkok For Your Baht

We've been to Bangkok a few times, and here are some of the things that continue to hypnotize us - the things we can't wait to do each time we return:

1. Hop on a boat, any boat. The public boats that ply the Chao Phraya and smaller khlongs are a cool way to sample Thai life.
2. Visit "Temple-Town". The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Mahathat are just plain awesome. Come and explore these classic monuments to Buddhism.
3. Go Market Mad. This is the city for markets. They're everywhere. From tiny flower and local produce markets lining the khlongs to "Market Disneyland" and 9000 stalls at the weekend Chatuchak arm-wrestle.
4. Chew on a Chilli. Bangkok is foodie heaven. The unmistakable freshness and spice surrounds you with thousands of choices. Cruise the river dining on fresh seafood to an encore of gilded temple spires and and orange sunset - all for a few dollars!
5. People Watch. This one's free. You can do it anywhere, but the frenzied lanes of Chinatown and relaxed open spaces of Lumphini Park are two of the best locations to observe Thais at work and play.

This journal takes you on nine self-guided tours that discover Bangkok's treasures without getting too hot under the collar - no mean feat in this city. They all work, we've done them, and I'm sure you'll find something here you like.

I'VE INCLUDED A HAND-DRAWN MAP OF THE NINE EXCURSIONS HERE. UNFORTUNATELY IT'S TOO BIG TO FIT ON THE SCREEN AND THE FILE IS LARGE (165K), SO IT'S BEST IF YOU SAVE IT, THEN PRINT IT. SORRY, IT'S A BIG CITY!

Each tour is colour coded and described in the accompanying journal entries. The excursions assume you are staying "on the river", but can be adapted to suit your choice of accommodation.

Why not combine your Bangkok experience with some of the world's most beautiful beach destinations and go on An Andaman Adventure.

Quick Tips:

WHEN TO GO: Bangkok is hot. At night it just gets dark. Dark and hot. November to May is pretty dry, then the monsoon hits until October. We visit between November and February when the weather is coolest and it's least humid. At this time the nights are wonderful.
WHERE TO STAY: This is the best tip. Stay by the river. It's cooler, there's less pollution, the scenery constantly changes, and you can travel almost anywhere by boat down the river and khlongs. We've uncovered a couple of gems for under - check out the Free Form entry.
EXPLORING: Bangkok's climate will sap your energy. Always carry plenty of water. But there are a few other general tips for negotiating the city: Buy Nancy Chandler's Map, the key to unlocking Bangkok's hidden treasures. Pace yourself - leave time for relaxing, and check opening times of attractions you plan to visit - they can be as fickle as European churches.
Oh, and grab a hotel/guesthouse card with Thai printed directions for those late-night taxi or tuk-tuk drives - not many of these guys speak English.
BUDGET: We manage to live well on around a day (for two), everything included.

Best Way To Get Around:

There's no simple answer to the best way to get around. Here's some of the options we have used and why:

Boats: Cheap and plentiful, they'll get you to many of the places you want to visit and are my first choice. Beat the heat, pollution and traffic for the price of a public bus - a few cents.
Tuk-tuks: Use them to cover short distances away from the heat, mayhem and polluted, gridlock traffic of the main roads. Avoid catching tuk-tuks at peak hour, you'll probably die of lead poisoning. They're about the same price as a taxi.
Taxi: We've used them a few times to travel back to our hotel at night and they're quite cheap - we've never paid more than 150B () for a trip anywhere in Bangkok.
Skytrain: If you want to get there in a hurry and grab some great views, this monorail-like transit system is the option for you. Although its purpose is to serve business commuters, some stops are convenient for major attractions.
Walking: No, I haven't gone crazy. Many of Bangkok's narrow lanes and riverfront areas are best explored on foot. It can be a walker's city.

These three tours cast a wide net. There's some contrasting local markets, the city's best park, mouth-watering culinary delights, and good views from the Golden Mount - an afterthought of Rama IV to disguise an ugly, weed-ridden hill.
Many of these attractions are free, you'll just need a few baht for the public boat fares - make sure you carry some small change. If you plan to visit the temples, set a good example and dress respectfully.

Now grab your copy of the colour-coded map from the Overview entry and start exploring!

1. People Watching
This excursion is ideal in the early morning when Lumphini Park comes alive with traders and locals preparing for their day.
* Catch a public boat to Tha River City.
* Taxi or tuk-tuk to Lumphini Park for a unique glimpse of everyday Thai life. You shouldn't pay more than 40B for this short trip of a few kilometres.
* Return to the river via the Bangrak flower and orchid market. This is a lovely local market full of colour and vitality, typical of the many surprises that await in this incredible city of contrasts.
* Explore the Indian markets around the Shangri-la and Oriental hotels. You can even contrast the markets with the shops in the air conditioned malls of these exclusive hotels - often acknowledged as two of the world's best.
* Visit the incredible antique shops in the River City shopping complex before catching a return boat to your accommodation.

2. Spicy Food – Spicier Entertainment
This is a good evening excursion, combining authentic Asian cuisine with some of Bangkok’s more interesting nightlife.
* Catch a public boat to Tha Oriental. Beware that the last boats sail at around 6pm (if you're staying at the Royal River it doesn't matter, they have their own boat).
* Wander down Silom Road for great Indian food (western end) and quality Southeast Asian restaurants, coffee houses and bakeries. The selection is mind-boggling, the quality high, the prices low.
* After dinner, walk or take a short tuk-tuk ride to nearby Patpong markets and some traditional red light action.
* Return to River City in time for the last boat shuttle (to the Royal River Hotel) or catch a taxi.

3. Bargains in Banglamphu
Avoid peak traffic hours for this one, but it can generally be done any time.
* Catch a public boat to Tha Phra Athit.
* Explore the city’s biggest market district at Banglamphu, then walk down the khlong to Wat Rajanadda and its unique Buddhist market featuring fascinating magic charms, amulets and love potions. It's a pleasant 20-minute walk down the khlong, but there's also a public boat that goes down to a stop at the Golden Mount.
* Across the road is Wat Saket and its artificial hill (the Golden Mount) that provides good city views.
* Walk (or catch a boat) down the khlong to the pier for the ride home.

These three tours focus firmly on culture, but from different perspectives. Firstly, there are the amazing monuments to Buddhism that crowd the temple district dominated by the Grand Palace and Wat Po. Your feet will get sore exploring the treasures here, so a good massage is always a recommended tonic.
Then there is the splendour of the Vinanmek Teak Mansion and one of Bangkok's finest little markets at Tha Tewes, followed by a morning (or afternoon's) foraging in Chinatown - if you can't find it here, it probably doesn't exist! You'll probably even find Wally.

Now grab your copy of the colour-coded map from the Overview entry and start exploring!

4. Learning What’s Wat
This excursion is best in the afternoon if you want a good massage - and it is good. Be aware that a strict dress code applies to these temples – be respectful and cover up.
* Catch a public boat to Tha Chang and visit the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. Save the entrance ticket, it will get you into the Vimanmek Mansion (see excursion five).
* Take a short walk down the road to visit Wat Po. The massage school here charges $10 for an hour of ecstasy (afternoons only).
* Cross the river from the Tha Rachini boat stop to visit Wat Arun before catching the boat home. Boats are available from all piers to ferry you across the river for only a couple of baht.

5. From Golden Flowers to Golden Teak
This excursion can be done anytime, but a strict dress code applies for entry to the Vimanmek Mansion.
* Catch a boat to Tha Tewes and visit the busy flower and produce market lining the khlong. This is one of our favourite local markets, with plenty of shade, undercover stalls and an exciting atmosphere.
* From here it's a 20-minute walk (or short tuk-tuk ride) to the Vimanmek Teak Mansion, the world’s largest golden teak building. Entry is free with the ticket from your Grand Palace visit.
* Return to the (same) boat pier for the ride home.

6. You Want It, We Got It!
Do this excursion during the week – many shops and businesses in these districts close on the weekends. Don't come here without the Nancy Chandler Map - it's like a treasure map to Chinatown.
* Catch a boat to Tha Saphan Phut and walk through the produce market here at Pak Khlong, heading north-east to the Chinatown district surrounding Sampeng Lane.
* Don’t miss the Old Siam shopping precinct (crafts), the Pahurat Market (textiles), the Thieves Market (almost anything), the household and produce market along Khlong Ong Ang, and all the fabulous shops lining Sampeng Lane.
* From Chinatown it’s only a short walk to the boat stop at Tha Rachawong.

These tours fill a weekend and focus on more leisurely pursuits, although stuck in a crowd of 200,000 at a hot marketplace doesn't always feel leisurely. Chatuchak is incredible, but it's the river trips that are the focus of these entries, along with a mandatory visit to Jim Thompson's House - a cool oasis in this city of wonders.

Now grab your copy of the colour-coded map from the Overview entry and start exploring!

7. Saturday in the City
9000 vendor stalls cater to more than 200,000 visitors each day at the weekend Chatuchak Markets. Unfortunately, it's also popular with many of Bangkok's illegal animal traders - you'll see plenty of protesters but the cause of their wrath is kept out of sight.
* Catch a boat to Tha River City, then walk or tuk-tuk the short distance to Wat Traimit with its 5-tonne Golden Buddha.
* Take a taxi or tuk-tuk to Jim Thompson’s House where proceeds from your entry ticket go to the School for the Blind. Get one of the regular (complimentary) tours that explains the fascinating life of this American silk entrepreneur.
* The nearby Skytrain station can get you to the Chatuchak Markets (it's the last stop).
* From the markets it’s a short taxi ride back to your riverside accommodation.

8. Sunday Escape
This all-day excursion is great value and only available on Sundays. Beat the heat, escape the city for a day, and explore the rural reaches of Bangkok. Take some sunscreen (if you want to relax on the deck) and you'll need money for food and drinks.
* Cruise up the Chao Phraya River to the Summer Palace at Bang Pa-In, including stops at a couple of interesting temples and Bang Sai’s Royal Folk Art Centre. All for less than $10. The boat departs Tha Maharaj at 8am and returns around 5:30pm.

9. Cruise the Khlongs
Sit back and observe river life. These trips are relaxing at any time and cost only a few cents. Pay your money and step on and off to explore whenever you get the urge.
* Catch a public boat from anywhere between Trok Chan in Bangkok South and Nonthaburi in the north (where there is a good "country market") for less than 50 cents. This trip spans more than 20 kilometres of the Chao Phraya River in 2 hours.
* Visit any of the Thonburi khlongs on the river's west side for a slice of rural Bangkok life. Recommended routes include Bangkok Noi (from Tha Maharat), Khlong Mon (from Tha Tien) and Khlong Bang Yai (from Tha Chang). All trips cost less than 50 cents.
* One of the few remaining "authentic" floating markets is on Khlong Bang Khu Wiang. Boats leave Tha Chang between 6am and 8am but the market finishes early, so get one of the first boats. It's smaller than Damneon Saduak, but less contrived - and only ten minutes away.

Get more for your baht in Bangkok
By Dave Underwood

Bangkok. City of Angels. Home to more than seven million people and a melting pot of east-west culture. It’s one of Asia’s most exciting, exotic and fascinating urban destinations. It’s also one of the safest and cheapest.

Many tourists travel through Bangkok for destinations further afield, but a stopover in this vibrant city of contrasts is rewarded with a tempting menu of diverse activities. I promise you, you will never be bored in Bangkok.

It’s huge, hot and often choked with traffic and pollution. But don’t let that dissuade you. By following three simple guidelines you can enjoy Thailand’s capital in comfort and style, and without the usual credit card woes.

1. When to beat the heat
Bangkok’s climate is tropical. November to May is quite dry, then the monsoon hits from June to October. It’s coolest and most pleasant in the early part of the dry season (November to February), but be prepared for heat and humidity the rest of the year.

2. Location, location
The bustling Chao Phraya River is the city’s life-blood, teeming with activity 24 hours a day. It’s also the coolest, least polluted location in the city. It’s well-served by regular boat transport and provides the opportunity to observe everyday life without negotiating the heat and pollution of Bangkok’s notorious traffic.

Some of Asia’s most famous (and expensive) hotels line the river, but bargains do remain. Both of these hotels offer comfort, atmosphere, convenience and exceptional river views for less than $35 a night – with breakfast:

* Royal River Hotel next to the Tha Hang See river-boat stop alongside the Krung Thon Bridge is one of the city’s best-kept secrets. There’s balcony views over the river and the hotel operates a frequent shuttle boat service between 7am and 10:30pm to The River City. It's used sometimes by budget/mid-range European tour groups, but always has rooms and seems to be avoided by independent travellers - they seem to think the location is inconvenient. 3-star luxury at a two-star (or less) price. Phone 433-0300.
* River View Guest House in an atmospheric neighbourhood of Chinatown has large air-conditioned rooms with sublime river views from the best rooms. Book ahead to get one of these better (air conditioned) rooms. The views from the top-floor restaurant are some of the best in the city. Phone 234-5429.

3. The easy way from A to B
Bangkok’s transport options are well-priced and it’s a case of working out which is most appropriate. By staying on the river you can use the many river-boat and canal services for a unique, fast and pollution-free view of the city.

On land, walking is the most rewarding way to get around and if you avoid the main streets you’ll be surprised how pleasant the city is. Little three-wheeled tuk-tuks are good for short trips through traffic but taxis are much more comfortable for travelling any distance.

On the King’s birthday in 1999 (5 December) Bangkok inaugurated its newest and grandest solution to the traffic problem; an elevated light rail transit system called Skytrain. At a cost of over US$1 billion it’s had some problems, but now provides cheap and fast access to more than 20 kilometres of the city’s business district and is a good option for beating the traffic.

By thinking about when you visit and using these guidelines for accommodation and transport, your time in Bangkok can be as relaxing or exciting as you like but, most importantly, it will be a pleasant and remarkably affordable experience.

This journal provides a collection of nine exciting excursions to get you started. They can be combined or varied to suit your needs and all of them are inexpensive outings – ideal for the budget conscious.

The Essentials
Keep these tips in mind when planning your activities:
1. Check the opening times of attractions.
2. Buy a copy of Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok; it’s not only a fantastic memento, it’s an indispensable guide for planning your days.
3. Don’t be too ambitious. Bangkok is hot and the climate saps your energy. Balance your days to include plenty of "quiet time" and relaxing activities.

All these excursions, except the trip to Bang Pa-In, are designed to occupy around half-a-day.