Santander, the lost Jewel of Northern Spain

A travel journal to Santander by cookiemonster

The Palacio de festivales y congresosMore Photos

Santander, is small city on the northern coast of Spain. Spaniards associate the city with a gettaway from the more turistic areas of suthern Spain.

  • 19 reviews
  • 2 stories/tips
  • 15 photos
The Palacio de festivales y congresos
This is my hometown. But I don't love it just for this fact; there are many reasons.

Though a coastal city spreading along one of the most beautiful natural harbours, it boasts a few ski resorts a mere 90 minutes' drive from Santander. In the summer time, these ski resorts benefit from the area's excellent trekking places, like Potes and Reinosa. The Picos de Europa, one of the highest mountain ranges in Spain, gives the traveler an excellent opportunity to escape from the overcrowed and somewhat popular South.

But if a mountain destination is not your sort of thing and you prefer a less sporty trip, then head to the fantastic beaches - either the ones found in Santader or those nearby. Most of them have 'the blue flag,' a European recognition of cleanliness and beauty given every year to a few beaches all over Europe.

The nightlife is fantastic, especially in the summertime, when the city doubles in size with nationals arriving from all over Spain. Head towards El Sardinero, with its bars, terraces, and ice cream parlours.

Quick Tips:

The weather is not like in the South--sunshine is not guaranteed all year round. However, it is fairly stable, never reaching 30 degrees Celcius. I'd recommend going in mid-July or August, when the weather is warmest and the temperature of the Cantabric sea is at its peak.

If you go, do not miss the restaurants near the port. You will not try better fish. A personal recommendation: La Gabiota Restaurant.

Best Way To Get Around:

There is no transportation problem. Santander has two daily train connections with Madrid - a slow but beautiful four-hour ride across the Picos de Europa mountain range and down the drier plains of Castilla la Mancha. It has an international airport. You can catch a flight to almost anywhere in Spain, and recently it has daily flights to Rome, London and Frankfurt. Yet it is close enough to Bilbao's Sondika Airport (1-hour drive), which has better connections with the rest of Spain and Europe.

The city's public transport is excellent, and cheap too--some even have TVs for a mere 10-minute ride and 1 euro. The service is extended the in the summertime, running more often and later into the night.

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Hotel RealBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

Hotel Real

The Hotel Real was built in 1917 in Neo-French style of the great European palaces at the initiative of citizens of Santander in honor of King Alfonso XIII so as to house His Majesty''s Court. The hotel was built at the same time as the Palacio de la Magdalena, offered as a present to the Kings of Spain of the epoch.

The hotel recently underwent complete renovation to restore it to its original genuine splendor. Spacious guest rooms, halls and lounges were redecorated and equipped with a flair for tradition and style combined with the needs of the discerning traveler. Magnificently situated in the chick residential area and surrounded by private gardens, the hotel commands stunning views over the bay.

The city and the mountainous surroundings are only a stone''s throw away from vast sandy beaches, el sardinero and the casino. The restaurant El Puntal with a spectacular view over the bay and Cantabrian Mountains offers a welcoming and luxurious atmosphere for guests to enjoy the fine continental and Spanish cuisine of its well-known chef. In summer the popular La Caseta Del Real serves Spanish snacks and light meals. The Theros Bar is ideal for cocktails and lighter fare.

Water sports are a few minutes walk away, and hotel guests have access to the famous Royal Golf of Pedrena, located across the bay. Every kind of mountain sport is 70-90 kilometers away, and most other sports a short distance from the hotel.

Number of Rooms:  123 Guest Room Photos:  123 rooms and suites, all of them spacious and luminous, equipped with all modern facilities, are exquisitely decorated featuring many of their original stylish furniture. Some of them have beautiful views over the bay.

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  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 1, 2002

Hotel Real
Perez Galdos 28 Santander, Spain
(942) 272-550

HoyuelaBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Hotel Hoyuela"

This hotel is at the core of el Sardinero, where during the XXth century the creme de la creme of the hotel and dining in Santander was located. Though the hotel is merely six years old, because of its architecture, so well fused with its surrounding, seems like it has been there forever.

Its style is described as Cour jardin if that tells you anything, immersed in a kind of belle epoque atmosphere of the avenida de los Hoteles. The Casino, with its two palace-like towers pointing up to the sky like Neptune´s trident, has one of its façades almost kissing the hotel, only separated by the Plaza de Italia. The plaza is the center of El Sardinero district: full of bistros, icecream stands, kiosks, bars and restaurants. And of course the Playa del Sardinero across the road.

In an establishement with a relative capacity you would not expect a high level of infrastructures, but that should not stop you from demanding a pristine service. This is exactly what you get and what you would hope for, a confident and resolutive service.

A tip: ask to have a room looking towards the beach.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 10, 2002

Hoyuela
AVDA DE LOS HOTELES 7 Santander, Spain 39005
34-942-282628

GabiotaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "La Gabiota"

Where this restaurant is set, could not be better: it issurrounded by the fishing port you can get to see the typpical northern boats mouring in the area. But gettin down to business: the restaurant is not at all pretentious, but the service is friendly it is clean and most of all, it is cheap. My recommendation is to order fish, seafood and anything of the like, for obvious reasons. They have many local dishes: such as the typical Paella, (you will see the owner cooking it outside) to the local 'Alubias con almejas' (beans with clams).
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by cookiemonster on January 24, 2002

Gabiota
Port Area Santander, Spain

BalnearioBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "El Balneario"

El Balneario de la Magdalena is probably one of the best restaurants in Santander. The food is quite extraordinary. The best and freshest of fish and sea food and a geographical setting that is to say the least unique! Overlooking the bay of Santander as well of course as to El Palacio de la Magdalena (only a five minute walk from the beach.)

If the weather allows it, you can eat outside, just above the beach, on the veranda. I recommend you try it at lunchtime. Nighttime looses most of its charm, unless of course it's summer time! MENU

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 1, 2002

Balneario
Horadada (Playa Magdalena) Santander, Spain
+34 687 52 7599

Cruz BlancaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Cruz Blanca fuses perfectly a typical Spanish bar with a British or a German pub. They have an extremely impresive range of beers for a Spanish bar... and the food is acceptable. But the best is their Spanish Tortilla, one of the best in town...

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  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 1, 2002

Cruz Blanca
Lope de Vega Santander, Spain

Santander DiningBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Dining at a glance!!!"

I have tried to give a wide range of restaurants worth a look and more... May be most of them go over the average budget traveler. But that does not mean that you can eat at a more moderate price! There are plenty of restaurants throughout town that offer cheap and quality meals, either off the menu or in the menu... and most of them will have a varied choice of tapas

Santander, as a coastal city, has a large range of seafood and fish at fairly low prices. However, you should be careful where you order it!! Not everywhere is as good as they paint it to be! Spend a little bit more and give yourself a treat, try the area around the port or head off directly to EL Balnerio de la Magdalena and you will notice the difference from anything you have tried anywhere else...

As for the meat, Santander is also close to the mountains so it has good meat too. Remember: The best guides are always the walking guides are the locals. They have the most up to date info and they will tell you good places to eat, if of course you can make yourself understood...

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  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 5, 2002

Santander Dining
Throughout Santander Santander, Spain

RiojanoBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "El Riojano"

This is one of my favorite restaurants in Santander. The food is great and the ambience is eclectic. What else would you want?

This restaurant, situated not far from the city center, is on one of Santander's oldest parts (that of course didn’t burn on the dramatic fire of 1945). It created its own style by asking famous national artists to paint the "faces" of wine barrels and exhibiting them all over the ample dinning room.

The menu is extensive - ranging from tapas to more voluptuous plates. I recommend the Pimientos Rellenos stuffed peppers. Delicious.

It would be a good idea to reserve a table on weekends, as it can get crowded.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 1, 2002

Riojano
Rio de la Plata, 5 Santander, Spain
+34 942 216 750

MalaspinaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Malaespina"

Whether you go for a drink before it gets dark or whether you are a night animal, this is the place... the music varies greatly, depending on the local dj, and therefore so does the place, but the fact that it has a massive veranda and two almost separate rooms inside means that in the summer this place is perfect for a chilled night!

The bar is just off the main street where "la marcha" (the scene) is. In fact, you would never expect it to be where it is. Just opposite Meson Salamanca on a small but steep driveway is MALAESPINA. The locals and a school near by have tried closing it down but so far they have not succeeded!! A small tip, don’t expect it to get full at 10 pm. The later you arrive the better i.e. 2:00 pm!! href="http://travel.roughguides.com/gtools/editJournal.html?JournalID=8475">MENU

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 1, 2002

Malaspina
Travesía de Santa Lucía, 4 Santander, Spain 39003
+34 942 313939

El AyuntamientoBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

El ayuntamiento
This is the City Hall. It is a beautiful eclectic building with Modernist features built in 1907. This building is nothing special, but you`ll have to recognise it if you go there; it is worth knowing the main landmarks of the city.

Santander, the capital of Cantabria, is a modern cosmopolitan city of over 180,000 inhabitants situated on the southern coast of one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Santander is a quiet city, perfect to take a walk to enjoy the views of the sorrounding landscape, to visit its parks and gardens or to enjoy the summer in any of its eleven beaches within a stones throw of the center...

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  • Member Rating 1 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 3, 2002

El Ayuntamiento
Jesus de monasterio Santander, Spain

Gran Casino de El SardineroBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "El Casino"

El casino
A magnificent building, constructed at the same time as El Palacio de la Magdalena. It has recently seen renovated. Though it may not look like it: they paint the façade every two years more or less due to the heavy erosion it has to withstand every winter.

It is the most important building in the Sardinero area, surrounded by many bistros, cafes and of course the famous beaches... It is a great area to chill out after baking in the midsummer's sun. During night time it is also a good area to hang around when the terraces are full of ambiance.

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  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 3, 2002

Gran Casino de El Sardinero
Plaza de Italia, s/n Santander, Spain 39005
+34 942 276054

The adventage of this market, apart from being the most popular in Santander, is that it is set right in the center of town, behind the town hall. I guess where all food markets are!?

You can visit the market on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Though I recommend that you ask the locals, because the days change as quickly as they come. I must say that this only applies to the vegetables and fruit. The meat and fish market is permanent and indoor: inside a beatiful metal building, similar to the late 19th century French train stations...worth a visit...but be careful about falling into the temptation of buying fresh seafood...

Certainly, the market cannot be compared to Indian markets, there are no particular exotic foods, but you will get to see the locals and you will be able to buy cheap food.

  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 2, 2002

Mercado de la Esperanza
El Mercado, s/n Santander, Spain 39002
+34 942 220529

Bazar San CarlosBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

San carlos toyshop
It must be one of the best, if not the best toy shop in Spain. And one of the oldest, too: it began in the early 1940's, and this family business has managed to be at the crest of the wave in the toy world, having products from all corners of the world, even from the USA.

But that is not the best, from the moment you set foot in the shop you are transported right back to your youth. It must take a lot of illusion and passion to make such a beautiful shop. The lay out is splendid, too, for such a small shop. You will surely meet the owner, too, a friendly Spanish lady who makes you understand the reason of this toy shop.

Certainly worth a visit. A museum where you don't pay to enter. It is not a souvenir shop, not at all! but you will surely find something to bring back home!

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 2, 2002

Bazar San Carlos
Jesús de Monasterio, 7 Santander, Spain 39008
+34 942 227 703

Gran Café Santa FeBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Santa Fe"

If you are seeking a relaxing place to have a coffee, then head for Santa Fe... people of all ages come to play board games (something very typical in northern Spain) while drinking a coffee... But later in the night, games are put aside and the place starts to fill up with people looking to have a good time. It has the advantage of being right in the center of the main nightlife area in Santander. There are plenty of bars, pubs and a Disco (Cambalache) just 100 metres down the road.

On Thursdays there are local bands playing. They have exactly the same protocol as any other band anywhere else: they always arrive late! (so relax and enjoy the latin feel). Check with them to find out what band plays: Last time it was a local band playing 1960`s music...tel: 00 34 942 311 200

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  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 2, 2002

Gran Café Santa Fe
Valliciergo, 2 Santander, Spain 39003
+34 942 311200

Cafe GirasolesBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Worth a visit.... it is a nice place to sit and have a relaxing drink... They usually play jazz music, something untypical for a Spanish bar. They also have unusual decoration, definatly original with, guess what flower... yes, sunflowers and lots of them everywhere.

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  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 2, 2002

Cafe Girasoles
Plaza de la Esperanza 5 Santander, Spain

CatedralBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "La catedral"

La cetedral
The catheral was built in the 13th century, built on top of of Christ church. Typically Gothic, it sits on a hill overlooking the whole city.

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  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by cookiemonster on February 3, 2002

Catedral
Plaza Obispo Eguino, s/n Santander, Spain 39002
+34 942 226024

It is celebrated in the month of August. The festival attracts the best classical musicians from all over Europe. Though you can also see theatre plays, its main domain is classical music. Last year (2001) the festival commemorated the death of Verdi and thus most of its music was focused on the Italian composer. However, the music is very wide: from medieval classical music to cuban jazz.

It is celebrated at the ship-like amphitheatre overlooking the bay of Santander, a magnificent view if you get to be at Sala Magenta.

A plus to be considered: it is not too expensive, though that depends on the seats you choose.

Enjoy the show!

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by cookiemonster on January 31, 2002

International Santander Music Festival
Santander Santander, Spain

Parque de La MagdalenaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "La magdalena"

This is one of my favourite beaches in the Northern coast of Spain. It is in the center of Santander, yet it is not the most preferred by the locals, who prefer to go to el Sardinero.

It has beautiful views looking towards Picos de Europa mountain range, as well as the port and the bay.

There are many activities, primarily windsurfing and canoeing, for which you can rent gear from the white building on the beach itself.

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  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by cookiemonster on January 31, 2002

Parque de La Magdalena
Avenida de La Magdalena, s/n Santander, Spain 39005
+34 942 272504

Parque de CabarcenoBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

A fantastic drive-through park set only 17km from the center of Santander.

It was previously a copper mine and, since 1992, a drive through park has been created with a large, but not huge, diversity of animals - tigers, elephants, rhinos, hippos, giraffes, wild horses, lions, and a long list of others. The surroundings are also worth noting with tiny gorges and winding roads that split the animal areas.

Worth a visit if you have kids.

  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by cookiemonster on January 31, 2002

Parque de Cabarceno
Cabarceno Santander, Spain

The beaches, its walks, its bistros... el Sardinero is the perfect place to unwind.

El sardinero is located on the northern part of the city. It streches for about two kilometers along the coast though it also enters over land to include some of the most incredible residence areas.

At the mouth of the bay, the peninsula of La Magdalena sets the first landmark of the city. The Palace at its top, overlooks, like a safegard in his lighthouse, all the nearby territory and the beaches. The palace was converted into a summer university some years ago, when the monarchy sold the palace to the Cantabria government (for a symbolic figure). Nowadays, the Menedez Pelayo summer university offers many courses, both for national and international students. And the courses range from environmental political economy through to literature writting courses.

But let's continue... On the peninsula, you can find apart from the palace and its nearby buildings, the Bikinis beach and a small zoo. From the peninsula, we can walk towards the casino, and the Sardinero beaches. Only a short walk away. If you continue past the Casino, you will reach a small but beautiful park in between La primera and la segunda beaches. These beaches form what is called as the beaches of el sardinero. They are the most popular beaches, especially la primera just in front of el Casino. It is smaller but it attracts a larger amount of bañistas (swimmers).

You can reach el Sardinero by taking the number 1 bus, leaving from the bus stop in front of the Ayuntamiento, or from almost any stop in the paseo pereda. But ask the bus drivers because almost all buses go there. The ride: o.9o euros.

The story goes that off the beach of La Magdalena a ship crashed and sunk against a rock (now a sailing school) bringing down with it the heads of Saints Emeter and Celedonio. Such was the happening, that a monastery was built for pilgrims visiting the area.

Slowly a small community grew around the monastery, becoming autarkic: fishing, growing cereals and raising animals. Since the land was rich, and it quickly brought prosperity to the area.

The saints, now the patron Saints of Santander, gave their names to the settlement: in latin sant emeter, thus Sant ander...

Years later, in the 13th century, a cathedral was built, with typicallly gothic architecture.

In the later years, in the 1800`S Santander became prosperous with its trade deals with the Antilles. And by the 1920's a palace was built, following the construction of The Hotel Real (see accommodation in the journal) and a casino, so as to transform Santander into an early beach resort, similar to Brighton or Biarritz.

The Palace called El Palacio de la Magdalena, set upon a little peninsula, was offered to the King Alfonso XIII. Such was the success that the royal family come every summer, bringing with them a whole lot of tourism from Madrid and from many other royalist areas. This still continues today, though the present monarchy prefres Tenerife to Santander. Yet it ha been a fantastic marketing move!

The fire of 1942 destroyed large parts of the city leaving it decimated and weak. It was not till the early 1960`s that tourism was once more boosted with d, realised that autarky was not possible. Santander gained a lot, receiving many French tourists...

The summer university, Menendez Pelayo, brought many foreign tourists. In fact, it was they that brought the bikini to the town, giving name to a beach by the magdalena peninsula.

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