A Couple in Boston

How could I not love Boston? The very birthplace of my nation?
"The British are coming! The British are coming!" echoed in my mind's ear as I walked on the Freedom Trail and past the Old North Church.
I could feel the drama of days long gone just by knowing Paul Revere's horse had galloped right by the very spot where I was standing.
I experienced an electric thrill when I stood beneath the balcony of the Old Statehouse where the Declaration of Independence was first read.
I toasted the Sons of Liberty in the Blackstone Section of town for forming a nation of the people, for the people, by the people where any man may find his fortune regardless of his status at birth.
Our money was well spent on a tour. We drove in a trolley through the 4th largest China Town in the US. We tipped our hats in honor of the Boston Red Sox who won the 1918 World Series when we went by Fenway Park. We took note of the Boston Library--oldest public library in the country. We learned Mother Goose is buried in a graveyard.
We topped off a day of history with an evening at the theater.
We even loved the snow that fell from a steel gray sky the last morning of our visit.
The Boston Common was quite beautiful blanketed in white.

Quick Tips:

Do not go to Boston without some knowledge of American history. Take a tour. A good guide can bring the streets to life by pointing out local lore and legend in a way that even the best guidebook cannot. If you visit in the summer, a walking tour would be fun. In the winter, look into a trolley tour. The New England wind can be brutal. Plan to spend some time inside on those not-so-perfect days enjoying Boston's beautiful collections of art. The aquarium is good for families. Make sure your hotel is in a good location. According to one tour guide, the Boston Park Plaza Hotel has a history of attracting power politicians, from Roosevelt to both presidents Bush. The Colonnade Hotel is where Frank Sinatra liked to hang his hat. The Copley Plaza is visited by H. R. Clinton. We stayed--and enjoyed--the Millenium Bostonian (see separate entry). It was right across the street from the Faneuil Hall Marketplace. It was very nice to just step out the door and grab breakfast at Quincy Market--a GREAT place to find a wide selection of inexpensive food--or pick up a section of the Freedom Trail.

Best Way To Get Around:

We stayed downtown and did not need a car at all. Boston is a wonderful walking city, but the "T" is also easy to use and inexpensive. Cabs are available and not too cost prohibitive. A car would be useful for ventures outside of Boston, but if you're in town for just the weekend, there's plenty to do and see without driving anywhere else at all.

The Millenium Bostonian Hotel, once known as the Regal Bostonian, is located in the oldest section of Boston. Faneuil Hall Marketplace is right across the street! Pubs and restaurants in the Blackstone Block seem as close by as the fine dining that can be found in the hotel's award winning restaurant, Seasons, located on the fourth floor. We could not have asked for a more perfect location to stay as we realized the Freedom Trail practically began on the Millenium''s front doorstep.

When we first went inside the hotel we noticed a roaring fire waiting to warm weary winter travelers in the lobby at check-in. I looked at various historical artifacts displayed in glass cases on the walls as my husband quickly got our key.

Our room was decorated in a gold and tan motif with a small loveseat in a sitting area. While ours did not have one, many of the larger rooms in the hotel offer fireplaces. Still, our room had all the normal ammenities, including a fully stocked minibar and nice-sized bathroom with garden tub. Our window opened onto a small balcony from which we had a great view of the area. The kingsized bed was firm and comfortable. I practically sank into the down feather pillows!

Because of the IgoUgo Travel Club, we were made to feel especially welcomed the first night of our stay as chocolate covered strawberries and sparkling water were left in our room during the turn-down service.

In addition, the concierge was very helpful when we asked for dining suggestions in the area. The Marshall House was recommended for a quick but good dinner. In the mornings, Quincy Market was nearby, and we found a place called Mike's Restaurant around the corner for a casual breakfast. We also walked through the most marvelous open-air fish market running right by the hotel. (The harbor is just a block or two away.) It was full of activity, people pointing out what they wanted and smiling vendors helping them. There were such great prices for the fresh produce and shrimp that I almost wanted to buy some to take home!

After a late night out, there is a lounge and bar in the Millenium called the Atrium on the first floor of the hotel with piano: a nice place to grab a drink.

It should be noted that the Millennium Bostonian has been recognized on the Conde Nast Traveler Gold List 500. The airport is just a short cab ride ($11.00) or subway ride ($1.00) away. The multi-lingual staff is professional, friendly and efficient. The rooms are comfortable. Major attractions are within a short walking distance.

For a weekend retreat in Boston, we could not have asked for a nicer place to stay.

Located in the historic Blackstone section of Boston, this tavern opened in 1657 and was the meeting place for the Sons of Liberty as they discussed political revolution. British officers also frequented the pub and were spied upon by American patriots.

Wanting a hot meal while walking along the Freedom Trail, we dropped into this pub to grab a bite to eat. The interior looks a bit like any small sports bar to me, and televisions were tuned into football. There seemed to be a good mix of regular patrons and tourists alike: thick New England and Irish accents were raised in heated discussion of sports and politics. The Sons of Liberty would be proud!

As for the menu, there is a list of good Irish fare: Shepard’s Pie, Irish Stew, Bangers and Mash. I chose an (almost) all American Paul Revere Burger topped with cheese, onions and Irish bacon while my husband had fish and chips. The service was friendly and quick. The atmosphere was warm and casual. The tab was reasonable ($30 for two with drinks). We enjoyed our meal and would suggest the pub to anyone wanting a quick bite to eat. Stop in for an Irish coffee to warm you up if you just want a place to rest your feet. Live entertainment is offered most evenings. This seemed to be a trend in pubs in Boston.

This restaurant was built in 1822, the year Boston became a city. It is a federal style building located in the Blackstone Block right around the corner from the Millenium Bostonian Hotel. The menu includes raw oysters, native scrod (cod), and lobster scampi. The interior is full of red brick and hardwood floors. While there is a pub up front, there is a small dining area in a back room separate from the bar. We paid $8 for a heaping bowl of lightly seasoned mussles served with garlic bread. I had a nice chicken in white wine dish served with vegetables on top of ziti. Our meals were large and reasonably priced. The service was quick and friendly. A family with children was eating at another table, and I would happily bring my son here for a family meal. A small children's menu is available.

The Purple Shamrock was named after the biography of James Michael Curley, an Irishman once elected governor of Massachusetts as well as four time mayor of Boston. It is a sports bar with tiled floor, big screen TVs, and blue cloths on the tables. Hanging Tiffany lamps made me think of Applebees. Our Boston Rough Guides informed us that this bar has "one of Boston's better straight singles scenes" thus it gets crowded weekend evenings. We, of course, are boring and married, so this was not the prime attraction. We stopped into the Shamrock at a quiet time--lunch--because it was near our hotel. We enjoyed crab cakes to start--more bread and less crabmeat than my grandmother's, but most restaurants don't stack up to her standards. The main menu was heavy on Irish fare--bangers and mash, etc... I had an Irish coffee but stuck with a good old hamburger smothered in cheese and mushrooms for lunch. My husband took advantage of a wonderful weekend special: lobster and fries for $12. Our waitress was delightful and quick. The food was good. And our bill was reasonable. A decent place for lunch. Or, if you're single, you might want to check out the live entertainment at night (They hire bands, too.).

The Red Beantown Trolleys takes you on a narrated tour of the city. You may get on and off at any of twenty stops throughout the day of your tour. Historical landmarks are pointed out along the way. This is a wonderful way to explore Boston: especially when the winter winds are howling, and the Freedom Trail looks cold.

Since you may hop on and off different trolleys for closer exploration of major sites, you may end up with different guides throughout your tour. All of our guides proved knowledgeable and entertaining, ready and willing to answer questions, and we learned lots of interesting tidbits about Boston history.

For instance, one guide pointed out a statue of Union General J.T. Hooker. To keep up soldier morale during the Civil War, this particular army officer let women follow his troops from campsite-to-campsite. These female camp followers were called Hooker’s girls---or hookers. Another interesting fact: Policemen in Boston were originally called constables. If a town resident wanted to see which constable was on duty, he could go to Faneuil Hall where the name was posted on a sign: Constable on Patrol. As the city got busier with more constables on duty, the title on the board was shortened to COP. The term cop became a slang word that still signifies a police officer today.

Along with this type of trivia, no major site was neglected. Present day points of interest were also highlighted. When we drove over the Charles River, we drove through the Massachusetts Institute of Technology campus. MIT research dealing with the use of artificial skin on burn victims helps many patients at the worthy Shriner Children’s Burn Hospital in the same area. People with an interest in medicine such as this might want to stop by the Massachusetts General Hospital and visit the Ether Dome one evening. This historical site is where the first painless operation took place in the 1800s.

One of the things I enjoyed most about the trolley tour was jumping off at will when I wanted to do things like shop in Copley Place, see the USS Constitution, and walk through ancient (by American standards) graveyards.

We never waited to be picked up by another trolley for longer than ten minutes. The trolleys were heated, and a warm ride from site to site was a most enjoyable experience for us in blustery January. I would highly suggest this tour to anyone visiting Boston.

There are several Marathon Sports locations in the Boston area. The Boylston Street store can be reached at 617-236-7800.

I am an enthuisiastic distance runner, so we had to take a moment to go into the Marathon Sports store near Copley Square, close to where the Boston Marathon finishes.

While this shop looks like any other running store, folks in Boston take distance running very seriously. A member of the friendly staff watched me as I walked from one end of the store to the other. He invited me to run on a treadmill against one wall. This was all in an attempt to help me find the running shoe best suited to my gait. He derived in just a few minutes observation that I have been wearing a good brand of running shoe for my body size and weekly distance; however we discussed the impact different models and inserts might have on my feet.

In addition to running shoes, the store sells running attire, equipment and literature.

I would suggest a quick pop-in for anyone looking for running advice in the Boston area. I even bought some Gu (energy gel runners eat on long runs) in hopes that some of the aura of the many great athletes who have competed in the area might somehow travel home with me to Atlanta. It's worth a shot, right?

The Old State House is located on the Freedom Trail. Built in 1713, it was the site of much political activity during the 18th century such as the debate of the detested Stamp Act in 1766. Most notably, it was from the Old State House balcony that Colonel Thomas Crafts first read the Declaration of Independence on July 18, 1776 to cheering Boston residents--including Mrs. Abigail Adams. The "T" subway State Station is now located below the building. On the top floors, there is a museum. While small, the museum presents exhibits on important events such as the Boston Massacre. There is also an interesting exhibit on the history of firefighting in the city that I enjoyed the most. It was very interesting to me to see how America’s first volunteer fire department evolved into the efficient, professional organization that it is today.

This is a great place to stop in for a reprieve from the cold.

Admission: $3/adult, $2/student or senior, $1/children 6-18, Under 6 Free.

Open daily from 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Contact: Via Phone (617-720-1713) or Website (www.bostonhistory.org)

The USS Constitution was launched in 1797. It is the oldest commissioned warship afloat in the world. Paul Revere supplied its brass bell and many of its copper fittings. It is a beautiful sailboat that any ship lover should take the time to see. Tours of the boat are free. Make sure you don’t have even a pocketknife on your key chain though. One gentleman who was waiting in line for the next tour with us was told to deposit his very small pocket knife back in his car before boarding.

Also take the time to stop in the USS Constitution Museum. Admission is free as the museum depends upon donations to continue operating (They suggest a donation of $2 per adult). We enjoyed walking through the rooms with sailors’ journals on display that chronicled their famous ship’s voyages. Many artifacts from exotic ports such as Madagascar, Singapore, Zanzibar and Malaysia can be seen. As we live near Atlanta, we were also proud to see the white oak from which the backbone of the USS Constitution was made was taken from the sea islands of Georgia. This white oak helped earn the ship its nickname of "Old Ironsides" as English cannonballs seemed unable to damage the hull during the War of 1812.

The gift shop in the museum is also worth a look. I was very surprised and happy to see the shop carries newly printed editions of historical novels by Kenneth Roberts. I thought his books were out of print, but it appears a small publishing company has picked them up again. If you get the chance to read one of his novels, do so!! Books such as Rabble in Arms and Arundel truly bring American history to life—perfect companions for anyone delving into the US’s past while also exploring Boston.

The Huntington Theater has been a professional theater in residence at Boston University since 1982. It is not clustered with many of the other playhouses in the theater district, but it is only a short cab ride or subway ride away from any point in the city.

The theater itself, with seating for 890, is quite lovely. The ornate gold gilding that decorates the walls and ceiling around and above the stage compliments the dark blue color of the theater’s interior. While the balcony is high—-we were in the next to the last row from the VERY top--the stage is in plain view to all. We enjoyed a show by George Bernard Shaw, January, 2002, called Heartbreak House. It was a wonderful production, and I would expect this company to hold high standards for all plays included in its six-show season. By the looks of the house, our play appeared sold out.

My only complaint about my experience at the Huntington would be a common one at many theaters across the country: cramped seating. With a crowded house, my legs had about as much stretching room as a passenger in the middle seat of an economy flight on an airplane. This is livable for a One Act. But for an almost-3-hours long play? I can’t speak for the seats below the balcony, but I would say the show had better be good for anyone to endure the arrangement up top! (Our show was, and we did.)

Tip: Tickets for the theater are often expensive. Go to Bostix outlets for half-price, same-day purchases on a number of shows playing in Boston. We saw outlets in the Faneuil Marketplace and Copley Square. The outlets open at 11 a.m. We were told (and found to be true) that the best tickets for popular shows sell quickly, and all the best seats will likely be gone by noon.

My husband and I both love to read. There is something exciting to me about touching the back spines of a thousand adventures yet read--pieces of knowledge yet unturned--as I run my fingers down a row of books in a library or bookstore. It was snowing one afternoon when we stumbled across Brattle Book Shop. It is near the Park Street "T" stop on a side street. At first, we just stepped in to get warm. The bottom floor is full of used books that you might find at any bookswap or fleamarket. As we browsed the titles, however, my husband pulled out a copy of The Scarlet Letter that had been inscribed by a woman to a friend as a Christmas gift in 1897. We started to pay more attention.

On the third floor we found the true gems. These books are the out-of-print books and the first editions.

I was absolutely thrilled to find two first edition books by historical novelist Kenneth Roberts. As mentioned in another entry, some of his books are back in print. However, these books with their dust covers in excellent condition were still good finds. My favorite, Lydia Bailey took over six years to write. The story takes place during the term of John Adams when the Alien and Sedition Act was causing problems for a young country founded on individual liberty. Samuel Adams is a minor player in the life of the main character, Albion Hamlin, who ends up in the middle of Napolean Bonaparte's conquest of Haiti. It is one of my absolute most beloved books from growing up. It is so full of courage and cunning that when I read it as a girl I did not notice the author teaching me all about the issues surrounding Barbary pirates and the missteps of a young nation.

ANYONE with a real interest in historical fiction would appreciate Roberts' efforts to be historically factual as he brings time long dead back to vivid life.

All true book lovers would enjoy time spent at the Brattle Book Shop, even if they don't find one of their favorites.

Visit www.brattlebookshop.com for operating hours or call 617-542-0210.

The store has an appraisal service, buys books as well as sells them, and will find titles for you if you are a collector looking for a certain edition.

It was cold and snowing outside, so my husband and I decided to take a trip to the aquarium. This attraction is best suited for a family traveling with kids, but we both like marine life and wanted to check the place out. There is a large IMAX theater available, which we skipped, but we enjoyed walking through the main building looking at some of the 2,100 species of water creatures who call the aquarium home. If you have ever been to the aquarium in Chattanooga, TN, the lay-out here is similar. You enter the bottom floor and walk around and around an aquarium making your way to the top. The penguins on the bottom floor of the exhibit are fascinating to watch. They move as gracefully as birds in the sky under the water--torpedos of power gliding great distances. African, rockhopper and little blue penguins sit on rocks, braying like so many donkeys, filling the aquarium with sound. We also saw giant turtles and sharks in the ocean tank filled with 200,000 gallons of Boston Harbor salt water. Sea lions and otters could be found in a separate area outside.

To be honest, while the aquarium is a nice diversion, it is not nearly as large as some of the other aquariums I have been to around the country. This surprised me. It seemed as if we zoomed through the whole place in no time. Still, if you have kids in tow, it might be worth a look.