Flamenco and tapas in Sevilla

Sevilla is a beautiful Moorish city, with a number of impressive architectural and historical sights, such as its Gothic cathedral and the adjoining minaret of Giralda – the symbol of the city's skyline, the sprawling governmental palace of Alcazár, with its endless salons and gardens, Casa de Pilatos, a 16th century mansion with lush domestic patios and classy period furniture, and many more. The sights can be explored in a day or two, but I chose to spend my time in Sevilla just wandering around, sampling the world-famous Andalucian tapas and catching flamenco shows that made me fall in love with the pathos of the Gypsy music and dancing.

Quick Tips:

If you are by any chance making a trip to Sevilla from Catalunya, there's a train that leaves twice daily (morning and night) from Barcelona Sants train station and arrives to Sevilla's Santa Justa station 12/13 hours later. You can buy the ticket through any travel agency in Barcelona, or at the train station itself (although it's wiser to book in advance). I bought mine from Ultramar Express Agency on 109 La Rambla, for 10.739 pts/64.54 euros.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking is definitely the best way to get around this small and compact city. Strolling through its maze of alleyways, squares and streets is a delightful way to delve underneath the surface, especially if you venture out of the more touristed areas. In Barrio Santa Cruz, where you are likely to spend most of your time as it contains the major sights as well as a typical Sevillian atmosphere that visitors love, be prepared to get lost time and time again. I got disorientated every couple of steps and had to ask for directions constantly (with a map in my hand; mind you, I'm not the best map interpreter), as this part of the city is literally a labyrinth. Getting lost was actually part of the magic, since it meant chatting to the locals and stumbling upon unexpected spots. It took me two days of all-day exploration on foot to finally get my bearings. At night, in Santa Cruz and especially in the barrio of Triana across the river, catching a taxi might be a good idea. There were a couple of moments that reeked of potential danger during my night-time exploration of the city.

I stayed at a family-run small hostel, picked from The Rough Guide to Spain. I made my reservation from the train station in Sevilla, during high season, so I think this place isn''t at the top of the list for budget travellers and might be a good shot if you''re strapped for choice. Even if not, I''d recommend it, as it is really well situated, just on the edge of Barrio Santa Cruz, by a lovely Plaza Alfafa (a popular night spot, with loads of bars, restaurants and action), the owners are super friendly and relaxed, the rooms are simple and reasonably clean (for a 1-star hostel), and the price is great (I paid 3,000 pts/$16, for a single en-suite room). Don''t expect great décor or atmosphere, but you''ll love the building''s typical Sevillian patio. Also, be prepared for some noise at night, as the narrow street that the hostel is on has a fair amount of traffic and revelers passing through all night long.

I stumbled upon this eternaly busy bodega while exploring the area around the cathedral and the Alcázar, and came back several times during my weekend stay. If you want to try typical Andalucian tapas that will sweep you off your feet with their strong flavors and freshness, a visit to this bodega is a must. It is always packed with locals, chatting at the bar and picking away at the colorful tapas, so you'll have to be assertive to actually push through to the bar and place an order. Getting a table is almost impossible, as there are few and occupied at all times. Once you get the waiter's attention, you can start choosing from a long menu of mouthwatering bite-size portions of Andulucian treats, such as manchego cheese and deliciously cured Iberian ham, tortilla rellena (small tortilla filled with bits of ham and vegetables in a mayonaise sauce), and utterly interesting pimientos de Padron, small green salted peppers, mild tasting unless you bite into that random one-in-a-tenth pepper that will set your mouth on fire. You can eat well and a lot here for 1500 pts/$8 – as you order, the waiter will be keeping track of your tapas by writing them down with chalk at the portion of the bar in front of you.

I passed this tiny corner bodega near my hostel just off Plaza Alfafa several times before before deciding to venture inside. The crowd of loud locals just standing around, drinking wine and chewing on tapas seemed intimidating at first, but the atmosphere was so amazing that I just had to try it. The dark wooden interior of this small place, with a variety of fragrant smoked bacon and ham hanging off the ceiling, and rolls of cheese and dusty bottles of wine stacked on a little gallery up at the top, plus the chatter of regulars always gathered here, oozes real Andalucian spirit. I had a quick bite there, of flavorful montaditos (small sandwiches) with ham, cheese and chorizo, for 200 pts/$1 each.

This popular restaurant and tapas bar in the northern part of Barrio Santa Cruz is a great option if you want to have a relatively relaxed sit-down meal with a group of friends. There are several tables inside and a bunch at the terrace out front, but you might have to wait to get seated as this is one of the more visited eating spots in Sevilla. A little on the touristy side, and with a menu that is quite pricey (2,500 pts/$13, which includes a starter, main course, dessert, coffee and a glass of wine), it offers a full variety of typical well-prepared Andalucian dishes. If you're on your own, I'd recommend just picking at tapas at the bar, as it's more casual and much cheaper. I had some great seafood tapas there, such as fried boquerones (tiny fish, eaten whole) and fillet of salmonete (mullet).

Flamenco was on top of my list of things to see and do in Sevilla, as Andalucia is the traditional home of this form of music and dance. Tablao Los Gallos (www.tablaolosgallos.com) was recommended by The Rough Guide to Spain as the most authentic flamenco show you'll get in Sevilla, so I thought I'd check it out.

Located on a charming little square full of orange trees near the cathedral, in a narrow building that reminded me of a fairytale, this small theater opens up every night for two flamenco shows, at 9pm and 11pm. It might be a good idea to book ahead – I got there 20 min early thinking I had plenty of time and there was a long line of people waiting to get in. I was lucky to get a seat since everyone else seemed to have reservations, and probably wouldn't have if I were with other people.

The show, with a burlesque touch to it, lasted for an hour and a half, and kept me staring at the dancers with an admiring gaze. The performers were just incredible, with their proud faces and colorful costumes. I was enchanted by the way they moved to the rhythm of the guitar and the voice of the singer, the way the soles of their shoes became almost another instrument perfectly synchronized with the music. I was in awe of their firey attitudes and music oozing out of their bodies, and absolutely loved the flamenco guitarists and singers – there's a pathos to that flamenco sound that I identify with in a strange way. Up until that point, I've only seen Joaquín Cortés perform on TV, which I really enjoyed, but it doesn't come even close to a live performance of flamenco. This is an absolute must if you visit Sevilla.

Los Gallos is great, although frequented by tourists. If you're looking for something really authentic, venture out to the barrio of Triana across the river, which is the traditional home of the gypsy community and flamenco dancers and musicians. I've heard you can get lucky there and stumble upon impromptu flamenco sessions. If you decide to go, it's best to do it with a group, as that part of town can get sketchy. If you're solo, stick to Barrio Santa Cruz – there's plenty of good flamenco on offer if you look.

On my third evening in Sevilla and after my first flamenco experience got me hooked, I was strolling through a narrow street just off Plaza Santa María La Blanca when I noticed an ad for another flamenco show that night. I immediately bought my ticket – there was no way I could pass an opportunity to see live flamenco on my last night in Sevilla.

The performance took place at the cultural center Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andaluz, housed in a beautiful 16th century mansion in the labyrinthine Barrio Santa Cruz. The center stages two flamenco shows every night (9pm and 10pm), apart from Fridays and Thursdays when they feature Sephardic music and other Andalucian 'specialties'.

The setting was simply magical, with an elegance that was far removed from the burlesque and almost decadent Los Gallos. The show took place on a typical Sevillian domestic patio, overgrown with flowers and plants hanging off the wrap-around gallery above. The audience was seated around a small stage, very close to the performers, which made my impressions all the more powerful. Watching the two dancers, a woman and a man, do their magic right in front of me, with the passionate sounds of the guitar and the wavering voice of the singer filling the space so beautifully, I felt that I was witnessing a very real Andalucian moment, when all that matters are your senses, fully engaged and satisfied.

Casa de Pilatos, or Pilate's House, is a beautiful 16th century mansion in Barrio Santa Cruz, definitely worth a visit for its beautiful domestic patios and the vista over Sevilla's rooftops and the Giralda. Built in an eclectic architectural style that combines Moorish, Gothic and Renaissance elements, this elegant mansion is a joy to explore.

For 500 pst/$2.6, you can roam around the unfurnished rooms and salons on the ground floor and spend hours wandering through the lush gardens of its two patios, full of orange trees, colorful plants and flowers, and fantastic tilework that decorates the many fountains and pathways. If you want to enter the second floor, you need to buy a separate ticket for 500 pst and you can then join a guided tour of the salons and hidden passages. Most of the rooms feature original furniture and decorations – there's even a small Goya painting of the bullring in Ronda. An interesting detail is the fact that the duchess whose ancestors built the mansion still lives in one of the wings.

Avoid the boat tours on the Guadalquivir River, which are an utter tourist trap and not worth your time. Super expensive (1,800 pts/$9.5) and soulless (with a recorded voice giving you dry bits of historical info), the tour takes you up and down the river for an hour. Some views are pretty, especially around Barrio Santa Cruz and Triana, but most of it takes you through the modern and rather ugly Expo '92 buildings down the river and out of the old city center. Sevilla is all about the magic of wandering through its maze of narrow streets and cosy squares. And if you want a lovely vista of the city's rooftops and river banks, take a walk across the Triana bridge (Puente de Isabel II) – it's just as beautiful.