Romantic Budapest

Indulge in pastries at Budapest's fine cafes and cozy pastry shops. Take a romantic evening boat ride on the Danube. Take in the breathtaking views at the Citadella. Spend some down time on Margit Island. Stroll around Old Town; visit the Royal Palace and its museums.

Quick Tips:

Visit Fisherman's Bastion off-hours - it's more romantic and you can have the views to yourself. Take your time viewing the ornate and specatular St. Istvan Bazilika - it's worth it! Don't forget to try some Zwack Unicum - a seriously potent Hungarian liquor (if only for the experience)! Familiarize yourself with the city's turbulent and fascinating history before you go - you'll get more out of your trip!

Best Way To Get Around:

Budapest is a very walkable city. To get up to Old Town, we often cheated and took the inexpensive (400 ft) funicular just beyond the Chain Bridge at the foot of the castle (the views of the river and city are terrific!). The subway system is excellent and very safe (and very pretty - some lines have beautiful wood and tile stations and lovely old cars). The trams can shut down early without notice - be alert and know alternate ways to get home just in case. Our 25 minute taxi-ride from the airport to our hotel on the river in Pest was very reasonable.

Ruszwurm, one of Budapest's oldest cafes dating from the 1820s, is located about half a block from Holy Trinity Square and Matyas Templom. This delightful Hungarian pastry shop/tea room is well known for its delicious cakes and cookies, and for good reason. We visited several times during our stay, and I am particularly fond of the Ischler - a large chocolate-coated butter biscuit. The cherry strudel and poppy seed strudel are also delicious. Ruszwurm's pastry menu includes chocolate cakes and a variety of strudels and traditional Hungarian pastries. A variety of high quality teas, coffees and cappuccinos are also avaiable.

Ruszwurm's two small parlors are delightfully "Old World," with high ceilings, daintily upholstered chairs, and interesting wood and glass cabinets lining the walls. The tiny cafe has a total of about 15 bistro tables (at most), so there may be a wait during the high tourist season (we were there in late October and were always able to get a table). You may opt to get take-away pastries at the elegant old-style glass counter as well. Either way, a visit to this Budapest institution is a real treat!

We walked down the steps from Fisherman’s Bastion to this cozy little family-run restaurant, which is also a short walk from Buda Tunnel. We settled into a pleather banquet and were presented with an extensive menu that included such Hungarian specialties as beef medallions, roast pork, five different chicken entrees, and a "special meat hotpot." I chose turkey medallions Szob> style (smothered with cheese) served with boiled potatoes and delicious rice. My husband went crazy for his appetizer of deep-fried Camembert cheese rolled in slivered almonds served with a side of blueberry sauce. He also enjoyed his goulash, which was also served with the house potatoes and rice. The servings were huge and freshly cooked to order. Horvath serves Gosser beer, which pleased my beer-loving husband. The pretty wooden bar was stocked with all of the requisite Hungarian liquors. The friendly staff appeared to all be related to one another, and the chef and waitress’ children played quietly in a banquet across the restaurant from us. The bar seemed to attract a familiar local crowd.

The total bill for two entrees, one appetizer, two beers and a mineral water came to a reasonable 5200 ft. While not a fancy or luxurious place, Horvath serves hearty food in a happy, comfortable family atmosphere.

I have mixed feelings about this basement restaurant located on Pinter Utca just off busy Vaci Utca, Pest’s main pedestrian drag. Due to its location near, Fatal (which means "wooden bowl") attracts a lot of young tourists, however, that hasn’t seemed to affect the quality of the food. It has affected the quality of the service, however. The staff working the door (yes, they have a velvet rope and make you stand on a steep staircase before they’ll let you in – even when the place is virtually empty) and the waiters are on the brisk side, to say the least. We ate here in late October 2001, when tourism in Budapest was at a real low and most of the patrons were locals, but that didn’t do much to improve the service. To be fair, we did have one very sweet busboy who spoke only Hungarian and was very accommodating.

The food at Fatal is plentiful and traditionally Hungarian – we dined on savory crepes filled with shredded beef in a hot paprika sauce and chicken served with rice and noodles in a mild brown sauce that were both excellent and plentiful. The menu is heavy with meat stews, ribs, noodles and soup served in bread bowls. Fatal also serves thick, hearty bread to go with it’s enormous stick-to-your-ribs entrees. The long, narrow subterranean dining area has a quaint arched stone ceiling and has two aisles of long wooden tables and benches – it reminded me of the cozy beer cellars we visited in Paris and Prague. The ventilation is terrible, so it can get really smoky (Hungarians smoke like fiends). Fatal is open till past 1:00 am for late night meals.

Fatal would probably appeal to college kids more so that it did to me – the smoke and the attitude got to me, but the food was certainly very tasty and a very good deal considering the quantity and reasonable prices. If you are looking for a good, hearty and inexpensive meal, and don’t mind the other stuff, give Fatal a try.

I know it doesn’t sound like a good idea to go to a fish restaurant in a land-locked country, but we had our best meal at Horgasztanya, a fish house near the Danube on the Pest side of the city. My husband really enjoyed his meal of deep fried carp served in a spicy paprika mushroom sauce. I had delicious turkey filets cooked in a white wine sauce with bacon and peas that was served with potato croquettes. Everything was excellent. The menu boasted eighteen different fish dishes and at least 10 poultry dishes in addition to various meats and stews. Of particular mention is the variety of soups, which include meat broth, onion soup and goulash soup.

Horgasztanya has a quirky "fishing" theme to its décor – fishing nets and a small boat are suspended from the ceiling of this little Mom & Pop place. It kind of looked like a typical little Hungarian corner restaurant decorated for the Under the Sea Ball. The walls are painted with nautical-themed murals and the cozy tables are covered with quaint checked clothes. The staff is wonderful and friendly – we thoroughly enjoyed our outgoing waiter, speaking with him in a mix of Hungarian, English and Czech. The place was filled with locals, many of whom appeared to be regulars. We’d go back to Horgasztanya in a heartbeat, no matter how far Budapest is from the sea.

This little dessert cafe/tea house is the perfect place to relax and enjoy a quiet moment with someone special. The ca. 1890-style upstairs parlor has only seven small tables, which are separated by etched glass partitions encased in elegant dark wood and brass. Richly upholstered chairs, mauve walls and delicate light fixtures completed the period look. The parlor also has a small wood bar serving a selection of liquors, coffees and teas. We had a comfortable, secluded little table near the large window overlooking the street.

The parlor is located near St. Stephen’s Basilica over a take-out cake shop - you place your order downstairs, then head up to the parlor where your order arrives via dumb-waiter is brought to you by a waitress. The cherry strudel and poppy seed strudel we ordered were good, but not excellent. We also had rich hot chocolate and cappuccino with our desserts. While the sweets are good but not spectacular, the quiet and lovely atmosphere is first rate. It was a great experience.

At first glance, Café Miro appears a little out of place in the rustic Old Town section of Buda. The restaurant’s whimsical design, a la surrealist artist Joan Miro, combines bold colors, fluid shapes and funky metal furniture for a look that truly stands out in an area known for cobblestone quaintness.

The Café serves salads along with desserts (ice cream and pastries) and drinks, and is a nice place to take a break on Castle Hill. The fare is not as heavy as traditional Hungarian food – interesting green salads and healthier pasta dishes dominate the menu. Depending on the location of your table, you can see Trinity Square and Matyas Templom through the large plate glass windows. The clientele is a mix of young locals and tourists; however, in the evening when the tourist sights are closed, the Café is filled almost exclusively with locals. The Café sometimes features live music, and it’s open till midnight – which is unusual for this part of town. We stopped here for late night cappuccino and hot chocolate – it’s a good bet

We were blown away by the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Aquincum, located 30 minutes by light rail from the center of Budapest near Obuda. Aquincum was once an important center of commerce and civilian life in the Roman province of Pannonia, which encompassed much of present-day Hungary and Austria. The relics of Aquincum are dotted throughout Obuda, but the largest concentration of excavated ruins is located at the Aquincum Archeological Park. The park also has an interesting Museum and a Lapidary containing a large and fascinating collection of salvaged gravestones, sarcophagi, altar and votive stones, architectural carvings, and plaques from the town. These items provide a glimpse into the personal lives of those who populated Aquincum.

Aquincum’s rich history is fascinating. According to the pamphlet distributed by the Archeological Park, the city was founded by Romans who reached the banks of the Danube (the frontier of the Roman Empire) around the time of Christ’s birth. Aquincum’s location made the town strategically important to the Empire, and it became the capital of the Lower Pannonian province in the 2nd century. To city encompassed most of what is now Obuda, and was home to approximately 60,000. The Archeological Park exists today on what was once the sight of the ancient city’s "downtown" area. The inhabitants of this Roman outpost built homes with central heating systems, enjoyed public thermal baths and had a water supply and drainage system complete with decorative marble drain covers. All of these innovations are in evidence in the carefully excavated ruins and in the museum exhibits. Intriguing remnants of Aquincum’s advanced road system, covered market, public bath house, basilica, Shrine of Fortuna, and several grand peristyle homes are visible.

We only wish that guided tours were readily available at Aquincum (tours are available only with advance reservations – call 368-8241 or 250-1650). We had to make due with the small map provided with the price of admission to the park, and a guide book we had brought from the States which provided only minimal information. The ruins are so fascinating that we really wished we had a better idea of exactly what we were looking at. Essentially only portions the foundations of Aquincum’s buildings have survived, so you have to use your imagination to conjure up what the city must have looked like in its heyday. The park does have several exhibits on costume, religion, and other facets of daily life in ancient Aquincum, but most of the accompanying information was in Hungarian, with little or no explanation in other languages. The Museum within the park also has very little explanation in other languages. Even so, the exhibits, park and museum are extremely interesting and a must-see.

Aquincum is open May-August 9am-6pm; April, September-October 9-5, Tuesday through Sunday. The Museum within the park opens April through October at 10 am. There is a minimal entry fee – about 200 ft for the park and an additional 200 ft to enter the museum.

Nestled into Buda's Castle Hill on the former sight of medieval defensive walls sits the fanciful Halszbastya, or Fisherman's Bastion. The white Neo-Romanesque limestone structure, which consists of sweeping staircases, conical towers and balustraded terraces and walkways, was built in the late 1800s as a tribute to the city's Fisherman's Guild (it was never used for defense purposes). The Bastion's pointed towers were intended to mimic the shape of early Magyar tents.

The architecture is fantastic to look at; however, the view of the city from the Bastion is even more spectacular. There is a fee of 240 ft to enter the balconies of the Bastion - it's worth it. While you can see the views without ascending the stairs to the upper balconies, the vantage points are even better from the Bastion's terraces. Plus, the architecture warrants a closer look - you can't gain the full perspective of the Bastion's beauty without going up on the balconies. You also get a great view of Matyas Templom's lovely tiled roof and detailed stained glass windows from the balconies.

We were lucky enough to visit in late October 2001, when crowds were almost non-existent. We really enjoyed visiting the Bastion at "off" hours - particularly at dusk and late evening when no one was around and the city below was glowing. We had the terraces and balconies all to ourselves - not to mention the views! We stopped by Fisherman’s' Bastion several times during our stay in Budapest to enjoy the views and the architecture at different times of day.

In warmer months, there is a cafe that serves light refreshments within the Bastion.

A moving monument to Hungarian Prime Minister Imre Nagy sits in a small park diagonally across from Parliament and across from the Ministry of Agriculture. The poignant statue, which depicts the insurgent prime minister pausing midway across a bridge, symbolizes the former communist's crossover to republican values. While attempting to negotiate with the Soviets during the Hungarian Uprising, Nagy reformed Hungarian politics during his 10 days as Prime Minister. His actions were denounced by the Soviets, who abducted and executed him for refusing to support the communist party in Hungary. The Soviets violently attacked Hungary during the Uprising.

The monument itself is an elegant tribute to the leader of the Hungarian Uprising. Imre Varga, Hungary's best known contemporary sculptor, has depicted Nagy as a solemn, contemplative and accessible figure dressed in a neat raincoat and hat, standing at the center of graceful footbridge. The life-like bronze figure gazes off into the distance, towards the imposing Parliament building across the park. The bridge spans a small pond, which reflects the bridge and statue. The symbolism and emotion captured in this simple yet moving sculpture are extraordinary. The small triangular park that surrounds the monument is lined with benches - it is a very peaceful and moving setting.

It is helpful to know the turbulent political/historical past of Budapest and Hungary to properly appreciate the country and its people. The city has been battered throughout the centuries by invaders, from the Mongols and Turks to Nazis and Soviets domination. When you realize what the city has endured throughout history, your appreciation for the beauty and stamina of Budapest can't help but grow.

We were in Budapest on October 23, Remembrance Day - a national holiday to commemorate and mourn those killed in the 1956 Uprising. One source states that 30,000 citizens were killed by Soviet tanks during the Uprising, and an additional 200,000 fled Hungary. It was a solemn day to be in Budapest, as many of the older citizens still harbored vivid memories of that period. Wreaths were laid at Nagy's monument, and several older gentlemen stood over the plaque commemorating the fallen leader. Throughout the city, official and makeshift memorials were erected, and we often saw locals praying and lighting candles together in the streets.

The newly opened Labyrinth is a creepy warren of damp, drippy caves, dungeons, passageways and cellars that run beneath Castle Hill. It also houses a slightly confounding series of exhibitions that range from reproductions of prehistoric cave paintings to references to early Hungarian history and mythology. Unfortunately, the exhibits were a little difficult to figure out, since the caves are almost pitch black and signage is minimal. Our map (yes, thank God we were given a map!) listed names like "Personal Labyrinth (…for those not afraid of themselves)," "Labyrinth of Another World," "Tatar Corridor," and "Path of the Magic Deer." We didn’t see much in the way of Tatars, and we think (but we are not sure) that we saw the Magic Deer of Hungarian mythology. We did encounter some strange pseudo-Roman statue fragments and a dripping wet ivy grotto. It was bizarre.

I personally didn’t like feeling my way around the damp passages and thought the exhibits were a little out of place. However, my husband (a big fan of catacombs and ossuaries) loved it. I couldn’t wait to get out, while he giggled to himself as we encountered dead ends and semi-lit reproductions of cave art. I would have been more interested to learn the original uses for this maze of passages beneath Buda Castle – but we were unable to find any answers.

Oddly enough, there is also a small café and a film-screening area in the caves. The Labyrinth is open from 9:30am-7:30pm daily. Admission was minimal.

We left Pier 7 (in front of the Budapest Marriott Hotel, Pest side) on the Danube Legend at 8:15 p.m. for a one-hour cruise up the Danube past Budapest’s most beautiful sights. Legenda provided warm blankets and cold champagne, wine and beer as we drifted underneath the Chain Bridge. Buda Castle, Fisherman’s Bastion, St. Matyas and Parliament loomed on either side of the river, bathed in light. Headphones are provided for those interested in listening to a running history of the city and its major sights (commentary is available in 30 languages). The trip was peaceful and gave us a new perspective on the sights we had visited during the day. It was a wonderful way to see the city.

In the off-season, tickets are 3700 ft per person and can be purchased at the dock at time of boarding. During the high season, tickets are 4000 ft per person and can be purchased in advance at the dock office or at some hotels – check in advance. We visited in late October – the weather was brisk yet the boat was still full. I would imagine that reservations would be necessary during the high season (see below).

Duna also offers day cruises on board the Duna Bella, which can include a stop on Margit Island if you choose (I would go for it - the park is beautiful and relaxing). Tickets are 3400 ft per person and include refreshments and headphone tour; the boats leave from Piers 6 and 7.

**You can also make reservations for theDanube Legend and Duna Bella via e-mail on Legenda’s website (www.legenda.hu/angol.htm). This may be a good idea during the high season to ensure your place.

As of November 2001, boats run on a limited schedule October (2ce per day), November & December (Fridays and Saturday only 2ce per day), and March 15th-April (2ce per day). The cruises run 6 times per day in May, June and September. There are nine cruises per day in July and August.

We spent almost an entire day kicking around Margit Island, Budapest’s most popular and lovely public park. Accessible by Margit Hid, the park is a lovely oasis of gardens, open spaces, shady woods and intriguing ruins all linked by well-planned pathways.

The island has an interesting history, and an awareness of the past adds to its’s allure. Beginning in the 11th century, the island was used almost exclusively as a religious retreat. The island’s 13th century Dominican Church and Convent was built by a grateful King Bela IV, who promised his young daughter Margit to God if he successfully defeated invading Mongols. The Princess lived as a nun at the convent for 20 years before her death, and was canonized many years later. The church was abandoned and destroyed in the mid-1500s, during the Turkish invasion of the city. The ruins were discovered 300 years later after floods severely eroded the island. Today, the outline of the church and the adjoining convent that housed Margit are clearly discerned, and a small shrine to the saint stands on her gravesite. Some renovation/excavation work was in progress during our visit in late October 2001 (a floor was being installed in the church area). The ruins are located in a shady wooded area, and it is a peaceful and pretty place to rest.

The island was opened to the public as a park in the late 1860s. Margit’s convent now rests in the shadow of a 1911 water tower that looks as if Jules Verne concocted it. The UNESCO site now houses art exhibitions. The park is criss-crossed by pathways that lead through pretty flower gardens, wooded areas, and open spaces, which are full of locals exercising their dogs (lots of Viszlas!). Near the Water Tower and the convent ruins is a wooded path known as Artist’s Way, which is lined with busts of Hungarian painters, sculptors, musicians and writers. Other areas of interest include the ruins of two other churches: St. Michael’s Church (near the Water Tower, it was destroyed by the Turks in the 1500s and reconstructed in the 1930s) and a 14th century Franciscan Church (only a fragment of the exterior walls remain – a nice place to picnic). In summer, musical performances take place at the Summer Theater (near the Water Tower). The Palatinus Strand baths (with outdoor thermal and swimming pools) is also located on the island.

The island has several small café’s were you can get a pretzel, popcorn, ice cream, soft drinks and beer. There are also vendors renting dangerous-looking pedal cars – it’s hysterical: groups of young men were racing each other in 4-person pedal-powered canopied contraptions. We got a good laugh out of that – too bad they don’t have that sort of thing in New York! Our only regret is that we didn’t try it ourselves.

We used the Budvari Siklo (Budapest Funicular) often to get up and down Castle Hill when visiting Old Town or Buda Castle and the Royal Palace. Located at the base of Castle Hill, across the traffic circle from the base of the Chain Bridge, the old funicular railway is a great way to bypass the steep climb up Castle Hill. The funicular is an attraction in itself -- you get terrific views over the Chain Bridge and across the Danube to Pest (especially at night!) while riding in beautifully maintained old-style wooden funicular rail cars. The ride only takes minutes and drops you off just outside the ornamental gateway at the Royal Palace. The fare to ride up the hill is 400 ft; to ride down from Castle Hill the fare is 300 ft.

Artikon is a little closet of a shop near Buda Castle that sells gorgeous antique icons and icon reproductions. The owner is a pleasant older man who speaks no English, however, he can carry on beautifully in French or German if you need help. Anyone interested in iconographic art will be blown away by the beautiful pieces at Artikon. We paid about $100 USD for an stunning 18x12 inch reproduction, and were shocked to see a similar (reproduction) piece for over $1000 in Prague a week later (I almost fell over!). We also purchased a smaller icon for about $40 USD. These icons relate to the rich history of Budapest, and we didn't see them in many stores. The few stores we did find them in did not have the high quality or excellent prices of Artikon. It's a wonderful reminder of our treasured time in Budapest. For those interested in art,history and art history, Artikon is definitely worth a stop, if only just to browse.

High atop Gellert Hill, overlooking Budapest sits the Citadella a military fortification built by the Habsburg rulers in the mid-1800s. Intended more to intimidate the locals rather than protect the city from invaders, the fort was abandoned shortly before the turn of the 20th century. About 35 years ago, the fort was put to use as a hotel, restaurant and disco, and it also houses some displays about the military and Hungarian nationalism. The Citadella also affords outstanding view of the city below from its walls, and it’s a popular place to spend a nice afternoon for tourists and locals alike. It also has easy access to Gellert Hill’s winding system of paths.

You can walk up to the Citadella through Gellert Hill’s pathways, or take the Number 27 bus or a taxi to the top of Gellert Hill. After taking in the view from the Citadella, we walked down to the landmark Art Nouveau Gellert Hotel for a drink (which wasn’t really worth it – the hotel is really run down now and the bar was full of elderly German pensioners). We stopped at the Liberation Monument on our way down the hill. The 46-foot high statue of a woman offering a palm leaf towers over the hill and the city, and commemorates the 1945 liberation of Budapest. Looking up at the enormous statue is a dizzying experience. It’s definitely worth a stop.

Check out the Gellert Monument also, which was supposedly built on the spot where Bishop Gellert was hurled off the hill in a barrel into to Danube. This imposing monument, along with the Liberation Monument and the Citadella, can be seen from all over Budapest (especially at night). We recommend spending at least half a day wandering around Gellert Hill and enjoying the views. Bring comfy walking shoes, as the paths can be steep and occasionally it’s more convenient to scramble down a "non path" area to get where you want to go easily.

St. Stephen’s Basilica, V. Szent István tér 1, Tel: (1) 317 2859

St. Stephen’s is the largest church in Budapest (we heard that it can seat 8,500 worshipers). The Basilica was built between 1848 and 1905, and is dedicated to St. Istvan, the first crowned king of Hungary (crowned in 1001) and the man responsible for bringing Christianity to the Hungarian people.

The Basilica is a spectacular example of neo-classical architecture – from its broad façade to its ornate marble and gilt interior. The soaring 315-foot high neo-Renaissance dome was added following the 1868 collapse of the church’s original dome (the pamphlet we purchased from the church blames faulty workmanship and materials for the collapse). The building also suffered damage during World War II, but we didn’t see any outright evidence during our October 2001 visit. The square in front of the Basilica was undergoing extensive construction, however, and it will continue for the foreseeable future. We were told that the Basilica itself had undergone extensive renovations during the 1980s. As a result, the interior of the Basilica is simply breathtaking.

The church’s interior reflects its grand and austere façade. The spectacular altar features a small marble baldachin that houses a statue of St. Istvan. Scenes from the king/saint’s life are portrayed behind the altar. The interior of the gilded dome is decorated with mosaic work depicting angels and saints. All of the impressive artwork within the basilica was done by Hungarian artists, sculptors and artisans. One painting of particular note depicts King Istvan offering his country to the Virgin, the patron saint of Hungary. This image, painted by Gyula Benczur, can be seen in the central chapel on the right of the main aisle (if you are facing the main altar).

Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of St. Stephen’s is the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand. Encased in an elaborate reliquary is the mummified forearm of St. Stephen himself. Even stranger – the reliquary will light up for a better view when a donation of 100 ft is placed in a nearby alms box. It’s definitely worth a look. And once you finally stop staring at the gnarled black hand and forearm, you’ll notice that artistry and craftsmanship of the reliquary and the chapel are outstanding in their own right.

Be sure to take your time when exploring this fascinating church. Check out all of the little nooks and chapels; sit down and soak up the meticulous artwork that adorns the ceilings, walls, columns and floors. I was able to visit the small Chapel of Saint Jobb behind the altar, which is accessible through double doors to the left of the altar. In that chapel, I caught a glimpse of the beautiful sacristy (they left a door open that I could peer past –just be mindful of signs that designate tourist areas). The church is awe-inspiring in its size, artwork, and significance to the Hungarian people.

We didn’t go up into the bell tower, which is said to offer good views of the city. The right bell tower houses a 9-ton bell – the largest in Hungary. The bell was a gift to Budapest paid for by German Catholics to replace the original bell, which was taken by invading Nazis during World War II.

Admission to the Basilica is free; admission to climb the tower ranges between 400-600ft depending on the time of year.

Budapest Marriott Hotel

Apaczai Csere Janos u. 4. Budapest, 1052 phone: 36 (1) 266 7000

We originally had reservations at the highly touted Art’otel, however, a friend (who recently lived in Budapest) implored us to change our plans and stay at the Budapest Marriott Hotel. We thought he was out of his mind, since the Marriott didn’t seem to possess any local charm or even a trace of ethnic interest. Our friend insisted that we book at room at the Marriott – "it’s near everything, and I’ve stayed at every decent hotel in Budapest. Believe me, the Marriott is the best place in Budapest," he said. Since he was so persistent, and since we had been having a difficult time finding a charming little Hungarian hotel that was also fairly luxurious (only the Gellert seemed an option, but the location and reports of shabby rooms deterred us), we looked up the Marriott online and half-heartedly booked a room. We canceled our reservation at Art’otel, which our friend swore had small rooms and a gloomy local ("it’s not what all the magazines say it is," he said). We were skeptical, since we always try to find non-chain hotels that reflect the local color of the country we are visiting. Staying at a Marriott while traveling abroad isn’t really our style, and we were sure the Marriott wasn’t going to be terribly "Hungarian."

So...we arrived at the Marriott on a misty morning and were treated royally by the friendly doormen from the moment we stepped out of the taxi. The desk staff was even more accommodating, setting us up in a room on the exclusive "Club Floor" and plying us with maps and information. Our room, located on the top floor (10) of the hotel, afforded spectacular views of Buda, Castle Hill, the Chain Bridge (which was about a block away), the Danube, Fisherman’s Bastion, Parliament – everything you come to Budapest to see. Buda Castle stared directly across the river at us. The view was unparalleled, and we later found the sunsets over Castle Hill to be worth coming back to the room for. Our large room itself was certainly comfortable, containing a king-sized bed; sitting area with two chairs, a sofa and small table; writing desk and armoire with TV (we got our first glimpse of Al Jazeera here). The bathroom was very clean and well equipped and had a shower with good water pressure. A hair dryer was provided, along with an iron and ironing board.

While comfortable, the room was pretty much standard Marriott – if you closed the curtains, you could have been in a nice room in the Cleveland Marriott for all you knew. However – the excellent yet non-intrusive service and the delicious food served in the complimentary Club (a perk of the floor we stayed on) was distinctly Hungarian. We had wonderful breakfasts and snacks in the 10th floor Club Room overlooking the Danube, which were included in our room rate. Excellent breads, jams and breakfast meats were served at breakfast, and a variety of pastries and cookies, nuts, soft drinks and other snacks were available til late-night for our convenience. We only went down to the hotel’s Duna Grill for a "full" breakfast one day during our 4-day stay – the Club breakfast was so good that we didn’t bother to get in the elevator. What the Marriott lacks in Hungarian "looks," it makes up in Hungarian "feel." There is no question that you are in Budapest while staying here, even if the room décor is strictly USA. The excellent staff were a delight – they were attentive while simultaneously staying out of your way (perfect!). And the lobby area was furnished with old maps of the city and heavy Hungarian tapestries and fabrics.

The Marriott’s location can’t be beat. Located right on the quay along the Danube, everything you want to see is a short walk or easy tram/subway ride. Vaci Utca is a block behind the hotel, so you have easy access to nightlife, restaurants and shopping without the noise and lights. The Chain Bridge is a very short walk along the quay, and even parliament is within do-able walking distance. Andrassy Ut is also within walking distance, and there is a convenient subway station within a few blocks.

Walking around the city, we noticed that the other hotels were either big "corporate" affairs or dingy eastern European cinder blocks – even the much lauded Kempinski Corvinus was a huge modern glass and steel place that offered no views and was located smack on noisy Vaci Utca. We were also relieved to pass the Art-otel and see that it didn’t appear to be all it was cracked up to be. Let’s just say that it looked nothing like the photos I had seen, and I would have been mighty upset if we had decided to stay there (especially at those prices!).

We have no regrets for taking our friends advice. Hopefully on our next visit, there will be a more "Hungarian" hotel that offers high level accommodations. Until then, we’ll stick with the Marriott.

Club Level Room Rate (double) 41918 ft per night