A Week in New Orleans

New Orleans has some great bars and music venues such as Tipitina's, Mermaid Lounge, Maple Leaf and the Rock and Bowl to name a few.

Eat at some nice restaurants. New Orleans has some world-class places that feature the distinctive creole cuisine from the area. Try the gumbo, the jambalaya and other local favorites.

Have a beignet at Cafe du Monde (it's touristy but is still the best place to catch a beignet).

Go to Harrah's casino...it's very nice, not crowded and has everthing you can find in Vegas except a sports book.

Go for a run along the Mississippi River.

Quick Tips:

Get out of the French Quarter as much as possible. It is fun for a couple of days to get a feel for the place, but New Orleans has more interesting things to see and do after you've walked around a little bit. If you do stay in the French Quarter, the side streets (i.e. Royal St.) are much better than Bourbon St. (unless of course you enjoy hanging out with a bunch of drunk, loud people...I do sometimes).

Avoid the buffets in the French Quarter. They are all terrible for the most part.

Best Way To Get Around:

Don't worry about getting a car. If you stay in the French Quarter, you will do a lot of walking. You can use the streetcars to see sites like the Garden District. And tour companies will drive you to the sites outside of the city. Your tour will cost a little more, but much less than if you had a car for the week (and that doesn't even take into account the hassle and expense of parking). The St. Charles Street streetcar is a great way to see the Garden District (try it during the day and at night).

Most importantly, the St. Peter House offers a great location and a great price for a b&b in the French Quarter. It is on the National Historic Registry and is clearly an establishment that has been around for some time. You will be in walking distance of Bourbon Street and the rest of the French Quarter and this is a more than adequate place to stay if you aren’t going to spend much time in your room.

As for the room, sparse was the theme. It had very little in the way of decoration and did not have a particularly ‘warm’ feel. But it was very spacious and the bed was extremely comfortable. The layout consisted of two levels (one for the living room and another for the bathroom and bedroom). The living room area had a couch, several chairs, a bar (minus the alcohol) and a TV. Note: the TV did not have any cable channels. The bathroom was small but modern (plenty of hot water) and a little out of place in that the rest of the room felt a lot older. The bedroom was spacious but as plain as it could possibly be. It had an armoire with a mirror (which would not stay up so it was pretty much useless) but lacked any other even meager attempt at decoration. No big deal, but it took a couple of minutes of getting used to. The bed was very comfortable, very large (king size) and had lots of pillow.

It happened to be unseasonably cold in New Orleans at the time of the trip, so the window heating and air conditioning units were necessary to warm the rooms. One minor glitch, the knob on one of the units was broken and I had to remove the cover and do some improvising to turn the knob to heat.

There wasn’t much breakfast in the b&b. As far as I could tell, it consisted of muffins, juice and coffee. It was setup in the entrance room on a little table and I don’t think many guests took advantage of it...I ate at different restaurants both mornings.

If you are looking for a location in the French Quarter, then the St. Ann is great. It is a couple of blocks from Bourbon Street and all of the sites in the French Quarter. It is also a five-minute walk from the Mississippi River, Harrah’s Casino, the River Walk Mall, the French Market and many other attractions in the area.

As for the room, it was fairly ordinary but comfortable. It had the typical queen bed and standard hotel room furniture including an armoire with a TV. The room had a small window overlooking the hotel courtyard and parts of the French Quarter (my room was on the top floor and you could see most of the large buildings from the window). Other than that it didn’t have any particular ambience. The bathroom was small but modern and the tv got all basic cable channels (but no movie channels). The bed was comfortable and the room was dark so it was easy to sleep in after a long night out on the town.

The rest of the hotel was a little rough around the edges. I have heard it described many times as charming and attractive, but I would use the phrase old and quirky. Don’t get me wrong, I had an uneventful, comfortable stay. But I did notice a few things that could use a little renovation (i.e. frayed carpeting, beat-up elevator, missing numbers on a couple of room doors, etc.). The staff wasn’t particularly friendly (but for some reason this statement could be made about almost every establishment in the French Quarter) but they made some good recommendations for local tours and were helpful when it came to arranging transportation around town.

If you can get a good deal, the St. Ann is fine. Otherwise at least explore your options before committing to full-price room rates.

A couple of locals recommended Coop’s Place. It is a small hole in the wall place that is a combination bar and restaurant. It had an interesting mix of people dining, drinking at the bar, playing pool and watching the football game. Everything about this place is down to earth and casual. Starting with the waiter, he was very friendly and had a good sense of humor (albeit a bit sarcastic). The tables are small and close together but this adds to the cozy feel of the place. As for the food, it was pretty good all things considered. It was my first dinner in the French Quarter so it served as a nice introduction to New Orleans cooking. I had the Red Fish (pan fried fish with a special sauce that was very good), the alligator bits (interesting more for the novelty than anything else) and the jambalaya (a New Orleans staple). Coop’s also has a pretty good selection of local beers. The meal was about $50 and I was more than satisfied with the experience.

If you have ever wanted to go to one of Emeril’s restaurants (he’s the tv chef that says BAM!! A lot), then NOLA is a nice place to start. After a couple of days of eating some fairly mediocre food in the French Quarter, we were looking for something a little nicer and NOLA delivered. The atmosphere is very nice (trendy casual, polished and not as folksy as the rest of the Quarter). While you are waiting for your table, you can watch the food being prepared in the open kitchen and stone fire oven or you can have a drink at the bar (which is small but nice). Once seated, your waiter introduces himself and his "assistants"…you are taken care of very well while you dine. For an entrée, I tried the duck (which was very good, very tender after being prepared for three days and very filling given the large serving size). I also had the crab cake (full of crab meat and served in an interesting sauce) and the rock shrimp appetizer pizza (cooked in the brick oven and comprised of some very interesting flavor combinations). Save room for dessert…I highly recommend the bread pudding. But be forewarned, it is a lot of bread pudding and it is so good that you will force yourself to eat it all. I left the restaurant stuffed. All-in-all, it was a very nice dining experience. The $200 bill was a little steep for two people, but if you’ve won money at the casino, why not live a little.

A couple of quick suggestions:

1. Ask for a table upstairs if it is cold outside. It was unseasonably cold when we ate there and you get a draft from the front door. The upstairs has more atmosphere anyway.
2. Listen to the waiter’s recommendations. He was right on for both wine and food choices.
3. Don’t be intimidated by the wine list. It is very long and many of the selections are very expensive. But you can find a really nice bottle for $30-50.

It was surprisingly hard to find a good place for breakfast in the French Quarter. So I looked at the Old Coffee Pot as a find. There was no wait to get in (don't underestimate this in the French Quarter). The atmosphere was very pleasant. We sat in a small, comfortable courtyard that had garden murals on the walls. You could also sit inside if you preferred but it had a little less atmosphere. The waitress was very busy but also very nice (full of southern charm...she called me 'baby' several times).

As for the food, we ordered the lost bread (a New Orleans version of French Toast) and callas(deep fried rice balls), beef with grits and a Creole omellete. All of it was very good, and the callas were particularly interesting. I don't think I could eat them every day, but they are worth trying.

If you go to New Orleans, there are a few things you need to try...gumbo, jambalaya and of course a po-boy. The reality is that a po-boy is just like a sub, but that's not important. What is important is that Johnny's has a pretty mean po-boy.

When you are looking for something quick while walking around the French Quarter, try Johnny's. It is a very simple, diner type place. You seat yourself (if you can find a table) and order at the counter. The specialty is obvioulsly the po-boy and you can find some interesting combinations. I had the crawfish po-boy and liked it very much.

This place is worth going to just for the atmosphere. People stuffing their faces, dripping po-boys, an open grill, etc.

I usually don't waste my time writing about a bad dining experience. But this was so bad, I have to warn as many people as possible. Under no circumstances do you want to go the buffet breakfast/brunch at the Court of Two Sisters. First, it costs $25 per person. No big deal if the food is good, but it was terrible...read on. Second, the food was inedible. Many of the selections in the buffet line were not fresh. The meat was very dry and tough. It looked like much of it came from a can. Even the desserts were bad...the pumpkin pie was still frozen when I bit into it. The funny thing was that had a sign proclaiming how wonderful their desserts were. Maybe back in the day, but no longer. Finally, the service wasn't particularly great and the atmosphere reminded me of a hospital cafeteria. If the live band had been better, I would have been less disparaging, but I think they were the rejects from other places in town. Sorry for being so negative, but this place deserved it. As I was walking out, a couple asked what I thought.

Many of the French Quarter restaurants are poor. The service is bad and the food is equally bad. The only people that go to these types of places are tourists so the restaurant knows the diners won't be back. So ask around or do some research before you go. Food is a highlight of your trip to New Orleans, but only if you avoid places like this.

To sum up, I said, "run while you still can".

I read about this restaurant in a USA Today article that picked some of the best restaurants in the U.S. I don't know if it is one of the best, but it sure is good.

The dining area itself is very cozy and homey in that it has art all over the walls, flowers, and warm colors. You will also immediately notice the presence of the owner who acts as the maitre de. At first I thought she was an eccentric older woman. The reality is that she knows exactly what she is doing. She greets everyone and personally walks them out. She really wants to make sure you had a good experience. Odds are you will, because the food and service is exceptional.

The food is classic New Orleans with some unique twists. I ordered the five course meal which let me taste several different items...a good choice. The entree was the best duck I have ever had and the bread pudding dessert was fantastic. All the while you are waited on hand and foot...listen to the waiters, they make good recommendations.

The restaurant is about 10-15 minutes from the French Quarter. If you are looking for some good entertainment afterwards, check out the Maple Leaf Bar.

I had heard about Mr. B's Bistro from several people, but was afraid it would be a bit touristy (over-hyped). But I was very pleasantly surprised. First, the service was exceptional. I got great recommendations, an extra scoop of ice cream for dessert (more about this later), and a good sense of humor from my waiter. Second, the food was exceptional.

I had the gumbo to start (it was quite good) and followed it up with the pasta jambalaya. Everything I had was very well done and satisfying. It is nice to be really excited about trying the 'local' cuisine and not being disappointed. Also, the dessert was great (and I am a big dessert fan). I had the bread pudding with whipped cream and ice cream on top. It was definitely not for the light hearted and I left the restaurant feeling very full and content.

One final note, the atmosphere was quite nice. It is definitely a nice restaurant, but didn't feel overly stuffy or pretentious. It was quiet enough to enjoy a good conversation, but lively enough to make you feel comfortable. I also liked the live music playing in the background. All said, I would definitely recommend this restaurant.

After looking in the window of countless antique shops, this store caught my eye immediately. When you walk in you see walls of antique guns from the Civil War and earlier. The number and variety of guns is absolutely fascinating and the staff is very helpful and informative if you have a question. You can also check out swords, pistols, coins, stamps and all other types of war related items. Walking through the French Quarter, you sometimes lose sight of the fact that New Orleans was an important Civil War port with lots of wartime history. This shop was an obvious reminder that is worth at least a quick walk through.

As a regular to Vegas, I am usually pretty skeptical when I hear that a city has a casino. But the Harrah’s in New Orleans was fantastic. It is a full casino with everything you can find in Vegas except a sports book. But most importantly, it is first rate. There are plenty of tables, and the staff and dealers are very friendly (many of them displaying the Southern Charm you would expect in New Orleans). The casino is also relatively new so the facilities are very nice and polished.

The gamblers were lively and friendly as well. It was pretty slow until Thursday but then picked up as the weekend and New Years crowd started to roll in. But the casino is very large so that as the crowd grew more tables were opened up. The table minimums also went up, but it was easy to find some lower stakes craps and blackjack tables. Make sure you get a player’s card. For a few hours of gambling, I was ‘comped’ for a free buffet meal (which was better than the several of the meals I had in the French Quarter) and offered free tickets to the New Orleans Saints game.

The casino is an easy 5-10 minute walk from the French Quarter and it provided a nice 2-3 hour block of entertainment each day.

When I first heard about Rock and Bowl I thought, "bowling alley that happened to have live music". In reality, think of it in the opposite manner. It is a great place to listen to live music, have a few drinks with a lively crowd, grab some pretty decent food and, oh by the way, there is a bowling alley with people actually bowling. Most of the people here seemed to have no interest in bowling but it does add a nice diversion for all you closet bowlers out there. But don’t take it too seriously, the lanes are very ‘old school’ (no electronic scoring, no pin counter, old beat up balls) which adds to the charm of the place. No one really cared about their score and a lot of friendships are made on the lanes. In fact, I met a really nice group of people whose daughter was going to school in New York about two blocks from my office. What are the odds of meeting someone in a New Orleans club/bowling alley that lives so close in New York? I’m supposed to get some great gumbo and jambalaya recipes in the mail from one of the people in the group. Most of the people here were very friendly New Orleans natives and you will find it very easy to strike up a conversation.

Or if you prefer, you can grab a bite at the bar. The food is surprisingly good (get the crawfish quesadillas) and you can try the local beer (Abita) while you're eating. All the while, the band wails away on the stage. The Molly Ringwold's were playing. The music was a little bit too heavy metal like for my taste but the band was pretty good. An interesting fact about the band...they open for themselves. The keep talking about how the Molly Ringwold's are coming out soon and thanking the Molly Ringwold's for letting them use their equipment. When they finally do come out, it is the same band with a slightly different look. Not that the specific band is all that important, but word is that some really great acts come through there. Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt even checked it out when they were in town filming "Interview with a Vampire".

Every single person I talked to recommended Tipitina's (Tip's for short). At one time it was supposedly the top performance venue in the city and it still holds it own. The original owner was a famous R&B performer and you see a picture of him over the stage. The place plays up its history as much as possible and you can see a New Orleans music hall of fame here.

So if you want to catch some really good live music, this is a great choice. When you walk in you see the bar and a large area for concerts. There is also an upper level that looks down on the stage. The night (Saturday) I was there, it was packed. I don't remember the name of the band, but they were well known to the local crowd. They played some hard rock, with a cajun twist and they were very, very talented (unfortunately this all meant a $15 cover charge).

There is also a location in the French Quarter (it is supposed to be much more touristy), but you want to go here to see the real deal. Some really big names still perform here so check the schedule. You might get lucky.

If you do go, it is about a 10-15 minute cab ride ($12) from the French Quarter.

The van from Southern Style Tours picked us up in the French Quarter. The driver was name Shane Knight and he was very friendly and informative. He provided a nice overview of New Orleans and the different sections of the city on the way to the swamps. On the way, we stopped at the ticket office and saw, several wild animals (all residents of the 'coondominium' in the picture below) such as racoons, nutria and squirrels. But this was just a necessary stop. The real fun starts when you get on the airboat.

Our airboat captain was Michael Perrin. His kids came along and acted as his assistant. They give you earplugs (trust me you will need them) and answer questions. The tour lasts about 1 1/2 hours and you see different parts of the swamps and lots of wildlife. Even in the wintertime we saw a few alligators (unfortunately one was dying after being shot by hunters in the snout). Michael also had some baby alligators that he was taking care of for the winter (he releases them in the spring) so we got to handle them and see them up close. It was a very relaxing ride...lots of birds, fresh air, open spaces, cyprus trees, etc. He even let us stop in his brother's hunting lodge on the swamps.

This is a great family activity and a nice break from the city and the French Quarter.

On the outside it looks like a ramshackle hut. On the inside it isn't much more polished, but if you want to hear some great music this is the place to go.

The Maple Leaf has a large bar, a separate area for the stage and the audience and small area in the back for pool. Everything about this place is unpretentious...it's dark, simple, open, plain. The crowd is a nice mixture of young & old, local & tourist, preppy & grunge.

As for the music, this place attracts some of the best local talent. We saw the Iguanas, a very popular local band, that is usually touring around the U.S. I liked them so much, I bought the cd.

The Maple Leaf is about a 15 minute ride ($13) from the French Quarter. It is a little hard catching a cab back, but just wait outside and one will come eventually.

The Mermaid Lounge is a small, smoky hole-in-thle-wall in the warehouse district. It has one large room and a small stage. The band was fun and very playful with the audience. You could tell that the crowd consisted mostly of locals who seemed to know the band and come there often. It was very laid back and lots of people were off in the corners having conversations, drinking, etc. The bartender was friendly as was most everyone in the place. You could probably fit a couple of hundred people max but it would be tight.

As for the entertainment, the bands were called 'All That' and 'Egg Yolk Jubilee'. 'All That' was a large band of ten people which included a full brass section (trumpet, sax, clarinet, etc.). They played a combination of their own songs and all types of other music (pop, rap, hip-hop). We didn't stick around for the second band.

The Mermaid Lounge is about five minutes ride ($6) from the French Quarter. Takes about 10-15 minutes for a cab to come so plan accordingly. The bartender called a cab.

If you are even a casual fan of memorabilia or pop culture you should check out Vintage 429. You will find lots of music related mementos including autographed guitars, records, and instruments. Movies are another big theme and various posters, pictures and other movie items (i.e. Al Pacino’s jacket complete with his chewed gum in the pocket from Scarface). Interested in books and magazines? You will find several autographed titles of significance. My favorite was a Time Magazine with Joseph Stalin featured on the cover…talk about history. But most interesting was the Camel Cigarette ad on the back cover. It was a holiday ad and Santa Claus was the Camel spokesperson. He suggested giving Camels for Christmas presents and closed the ad with the holiday greeting "Happy Holidays and Happy Smoking". It was pretty funny. By the way, the magazine was on sale for about $5,000.

Make sure you ask some questions. The staff is very friendly and eager to chat about many of the items. They have a real affinity for the things that they are selling and can really bring them to life by providing a little background on each item.

The Royal Access Internet Café is located on Royal Street in the French Quarter. I needed to check email a couple of times while on vacation and Royal Access was great. It is conveniently located in the middle of the French Quarter. It is a pretty no-nonsense, efficient operation (one room with about ten computers). I never had to wait for a computer, the staff (one guy) was helpful, and the rates were very reasonable ($5 for 30 minutes). One note, you have to look closely for the sign. The café is not located on the street. You have to walk through a small courtyard and then up a flight of stairs. The signs are pretty easy to follow, but your first time you will be wondering if you are going the right direction.