Loitering in Lugano
by Dave Underwood
Geography for 20 points. Where am I? The climate is Mediterranean, the people open, carefree and passionate. The trains are never late, the gardens immaculate, and everything is in its place. Italy? Switzerland? I’ll pay either.
The atlas says Lugano is in Switzerland but, as the name suggests, this picture-postcard paradise clings to its Italian roots. 8% of Switzerland call Italian their native language and live mostly in the south-central district of Ticino, separated from Italy by palm-tree studded lakes and the Alp’s lush foothills. Ticino belonged to pre-Italian states until the Swiss took it over in 1512, and it’s been part of Switzerland ever since.
The idea of Italian dining, balmy climate and breathtaking scenery combined with Swiss precision and order is irresistible, yet somehow puzzling. A bit like enjoying fantastic pasta without getting sauce down your front.
Lugano is irresistible – a slice of Italy in Switzerland. We stopped for a look and stayed four days. Here are four reasons why.
A TOWN WITH A VIEW
Lugano’s 30,000 residents have it all – water, mountains and weather. Historic stone houses mingle with resorts and colourful parks around a waterfront that mirrors the alpine peaks and lush hills surrounding it. The town squeezes between two of these hills, Monte San Salvatore and Monte Bre, both serviced by funicular railways providing visitors with unrivalled views and access to a host of walking trails.
With perfect weather between March and November, this is the Swiss Riviera. It takes barely half-an-hour to walk across town and the delightful old city centre and railway station are centrally located overlooking the lake. Hilly, traffic-free cobblestone lanes meander through the shopping and historical districts, offering frequent glimpses of the surrounding landscape.
The stunning views continue on and around the lake. 15 acres of civic parks and gardens line the waterfront and a beach and swimming pools complete the picture.
When your feet get sore you can take to the lake on any of the regular boat services for uninterrupted views and a totally indulgent experience. On a sunny day, and they usually are, you won’t want to be anywhere else. Navigazione Lugano sell 1,3 and 7-day passes that are the best value if you’re planning a few trips.
ALFRESCO APPETITE
The Ticinese people were mountain-peasants who ate simple and hearty food. Thankfully, traditions are fiercely protected and northern Italian cuisine dominates today’s Lugano.
Mountain game, fish, mushrooms, risotto and thick vegetable soups are common delights. The usual variety of cold meats and sharp, hard cheeses are used as well as delicate goat cheese from the surrounding mountains. The local wine is as warm and generous as the hospitality. Deep, ruby-red Merlot is poured from a pitcher or decanter and you pay for what you drink.
Then, of course, there are the ubiquitous gelato shops and pasticcerias for that customary alfresco indulgence. Lugano’s climate is tailor made for this cuisine, and if you search out the many family-run trattorias and tavernas you’ll be assured of an authentic experience.
Now the bad news. You could be excused for thinking you’re in Italy but you’ll remember where you are when you get the bill. This is Switzerland – it’s expensive. Here are a couple of authentic, well-priced places we can recommend:
1. La Tinera. On Via dei Gorini in the old town, this lively taverna serves regional specialties and pasta to die for.
2. Pestalozzi. Eccentric locals and hearty food in the hotel of the same name on Corso Pestalozzi.
WALKING ON SUNSHINE
Hillsides and valleys of colour sprinkled with cool forests, an occasional village of old stone houses and picturesque waterfront frescoed resort-towns. All this, backed by distant snow-capped peaks under a Mediterranean sun that won’t quit. That’s what you can expect if you’re out for a walk around Lugano.
Dozens of footpaths cross the countryside and it’s easy to design your own walks, visiting places of interest and finishing in beautiful lakeside towns where you can catch a boat back to Lugano. Here are two sensational walks we did, and you can get more ideas from the Tourist Office:
1. Take a funicular to the top of San Salvatore, then follow any of the trails down the mountain through the villages of Ciona, Carona and Torello to the beautiful resort of Morcote. Allow four hours. Boats back to Lugano take an hour.
2. Explore Lugano’s Civic Park and the Lido before heading down Via Riviera to Castagnola and the start of the waterfront walk to Gandria. Allow two hours. Boats back to Lugano take 30 minutes.
CULTURAL CRAVINGS
Lugano gets its share of sun worshippers and resort junkies but it hasn’t completely surrendered to the pitfalls of tourist-mania. The "Rio of the Old World" is its nickname and Lugano’s reputation as the district’s cultural and artistic centre is well-deserved.
Cathedrals, churches and villas line the old town and many museums exhibit impressive collections of modern and contemporary art, sculpture and photography.
The short walk to Castagnola reveals an extraordinary private art collection in the glorious 16th century mansion of Villa Favorita. The grounds of the villa are splendid and a visit here can easily be combined with a walk to the village of Gandria.
Lugano has plenty of attractions to satisfy serious culture-vultures, but even the culturally-challenged will be surprised by some of its treasures. Here are our favourites:
1. Villa Favorita. You’ll be left spellbound by this mansion in Castagnola and its incomparable art collection.
2. Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angeli. This 15th century church in Piazza Luini houses some of Switzerland’s most amazing frescos.
3. Museum of Modern Art. An enormous collection of international and Ticinese artists is displayed in Villa Malpensata on Riva Antonio Caccia.
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