High on Life

Lhasa, Tibet’s capital and largest city, is an amazing place. Perhaps it is the forbidding location, the relief of getting there after the bureaucratic complexities, or the daunting altitude? More likely, it is just one of those great places where there is atmosphere, attractions and genuine mystery. It’s a place to explore – to walk along roads and down narrow alleys. Each corner will reveal something new about this fascinating city. The people, the religion, the architecture, and the sights and sounds are different to anywhere else you have been in the world. It is mysterious but it is not frightening. It’s a great place to visit.

The highlights of Lhasa are many but to me the following were tops:
• Potala Palace – the home of the Dalai Lamas
• Jokhang Temple
• The Tibetan people
• The food and restaurants
• The whole Barkhor area
• Drepung and Sera Monasteries

Quick Tips:

Don’t underestimate the problems with altitude. If you have flown in from sea level, you will need to acclimatize for several days. During this period you will experience breathlessness and you may have headaches, problems with sleeping, and nausea. You need to take things quietly. Fortunately, Gonggar airport in 90 km from Lhasa so you spend the first 90 minutes in the country sitting in one position. That’s probably the best thing you could possibly do.

Stay somewhere close to the Barkhor area for maximum atmosphere. There are some nice 3-star hotels here and also some good budget accommodation if funds are short.

Best Way To Get Around:

You must walk. Explore the streets and alleys. Venture into shops, temples and restaurants. For trips to the outlying parts of the city, taxis are readily available for a flat fare of Y10 (about US.20). Direct the driver with signs or have the address written in Chinese or Tibetan.

I thought this hotel was perfectly located. The Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor and many restaurants were all within easy walking distance.

From the street the building looked somewhat disappointing and even the lobby was cramped and ordinary. When we were taken to our rooms, however, it was a different story. Most look out on to a nice little private garden with lawn, trees, and a small restaurant. The atmosphere was lovely.

The rooms themselves were very comfortable. Each was large, air-conditioned/heated, and adequately equipped. I stayed in two different rooms. Both contained two single beds but I assume there are some doubles. The bathrooms had a bath with shower, toilet, wash basin and most importantly, reliable hot water. Hot drinking water was provided for tea and there was a small refrigerator with supplies if needed. There was a TV with a limited range of channels (none in English), a desk suitable for working on, a telephone with international connections via the switchboard, and a couple of chairs.

Because there were many restaurants in the area, I didn’t eat at the hotel except for a light breakfast before leaving early on the last morning, and a light working lunch one afternoon. Both were perfectly adequate and reasonably priced. There was a regular restaurant providing all meals. There were also internet and other business facilities but I found much cheaper offerings just down the street.

The staff were very friendly and helpful. I would certainly return.

This ground-floor restaurant offers a mix of Tibetan, Nepalese and Western food in a nice, comfortable atmosphere. It is well patronised by budget travellers looking for value for money meals.

We went there on several occasions for breakfast. One morning we took a Chinese friend but he left without eating anything because he claimed "there is nothing on the menu that I like". Certainly breakfast is mainly Western food. The complete breakfast at Y25 (US$3) is probably the most popular offering. This consists of fruit juice, bread, jam, egg and hash browns with coffee or tea. It is not huge in size but is adequate for most people.

One morning I had pancakes with honey. They were great. There was also the option of having them with lemon. I combined them with a banana lassi, a delicious yogurt drink with almost the consistency of a thick shake. I still wasn’t hungry by 2pm.

Sunland has an English-language menu and the staff all speak English. It is an easy start to the day.

After weeks of eating Chinese and Tibetan food, we were looking for something different. Friends recommended this restaurant for a curry so we immediately took their advice. It was a good choice.

The restaurant is upstairs and it looks out towards the square in front of the Jokhang Temple. We went one night and were so impressed that we returned two nights later. The staff were friendly, service was good and the Nepalese/Indian food was excellent. There were several curries on the menu and I sought advice on which was hottest. The waitress suggested the masala and it was excellent. On the second visit I had a chicken curry and this was also excellent so I can firmly recommend both.

To accompany the curry I ordered some rota. This was only Y4. The curry was Y15. There were various starters and desserts but we didn’t need them. That is a pretty good value meal. For drinks, some of us had lassis and some had beer. Both were less than Y10.

Most of us have seen photographs of this palace but nothing prepares you for the thrill of seeing it right before you. This truly is an impressive building on an impressive site.

The Potala Palace was started in 1645 and was the home of a succession of Dalai Lamas. Tibet was effectively ruled from here for centuries but the present Dalai Lama fled to India in 1959 and now the building is virtually empty. It now operates as a museum and visitors are welcome. Locals pay Y1 while foreigners are charged Y75 (US$9). There is no doubt it is worth the cost.

The palace has over 1000 rooms and much of it can be explored. Tours are available but you can wander around on your own if you wish. We spent around three hours here and could have easily spent much more time. Much of the building is dark and mysterious. There are numerous statues of the Buddha, paintings of Tibetan dieties, other religious relics, and marvellous tributes to past Dalai Lamas and their courts.

The Potala was crowded with local Tibetans in their dark clothes brightened by flashes of colourful scarves and jewelry. Many seemed as fascinated as we were in the marvelous objects on display but in addition they made offerings of yak butter or money to the images in a manner of deep reverence. I was deeply moved by the piety of these people who by our standards had very little material wealth but were still willing to give.

One of the highlights of the visit was a walk through the private chambers of the Dalai Lama. The contrast between this opulence and the conditions endured by the locals outside was striking. I guess the same applies in our own society! Finally, we reached the roof and gazed down on the city.

Entry to the palace is available daily from 9am.

The temple was founded in 640 AD but I doubt anything remains from that period. Buddhism has faced many crises in Tibet over the centuries but none more serious than in the late 1960s when religious practices were completely banned and bands of out-of-control Chinese Red Guards destroyed temples and other religious structures and persecuted monks and nuns. One story is that the Red Guards used the Jokhang Temple as a pig sty during this period, then destroyed everything they could before leaving.

Fortunately, the temple has been rebuilt, and monks and nuns are once more practicing their religion. For a visitor it is a truly fascinating place. From dawn to dusk hundreds of pilgrims walk clockwise around the building along the alleys of the Barkhor. Inside the temple there is also a circular path crowded with worshippers all reciting prayers and mantras and prostrating themselves. The atmosphere is electric and very moving.

The main shrines were much quieter. In fact when I was there only foreigners who had paid the Y15 entrance fee were allowed into the main rooms of the temple. The locals who were there to pray and make offerings to the deities were crowding around the main entrance unable to gain entry. Very strange!

After looking around inside, we walked to the roof and enjoyed spectacular views over the city through gold covered spires. This was magical. I could have spent hours just wandering around.