A wet week in Lisbon

Lisbon is a wonderful small city to stroll around and get lost in. The old city is full of narrow alleys, steep slopes and well-preserved buildings, many still in daily use as private residences.

The views from the higher areas such as Castelo de Sao Jorge and Bairro Alto are breathtaking even in bad weather. The Praca do Comercio is a sight to behold – most countries can but wish to have government buildings so beautiful. The Pont 25 de Abril reminds of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge.

Belem is a definite highlight – the monastery and Torre de Belem are must-sees. The National Museum of Coaches and Maritime Museum in Belem are also worth a visit, even if coaches don’t really attract you at first thought.

It is a pleasant stroll up the wide Avenida de Liberdade from Rossio to Parque Eduardo VII. The avenue is lined with interesting buildings, brand name stores and the view towards the old city and the River Tagus improves as you go higher.

Quick Tips:

Don’t ignore the warning in some guidebooks that March brings a thousand rainstorms – the only time in a week that I saw the sun for any length of time was while waiting to take off from Lisbon airport. It was never cold but strong winds made using an umbrella impossible, which is a problem if you wear glasses or trying to take photographs.

Many cafes and even museums are closed out of season. Very few out door places were open and some parks and miradouro (belvederes) looked a bit neglected. Several churches and museums were also closed for repairs in preparation for the tourist season.

While I was there every second plaza was being dug up to improve parking facilities. The work should hopefully be finished by now and the result should be better traffic flow and beautiful squares.

Shopping at the airport was pretty mediocre, even if you were just trying to get rid of spare change.

Best Way To Get Around:

Central Lisbon is a compact city and interesting to walk in. However, roads can be very steep in parts of the Alfama and Bairro Alto. In some areas stairs are used but in others the smooth surface can become very slippery when wet.

The Metro and trains are cheap and very efficient. However, the trams, especially the rickety old ones are more interesting. Tram 15 goes to Belem in about 20 minutes – both old and new trams operate on this route. Tram 12 uses only old cars and makes an interesting loop through the Alfama, passing close to the entrance of Castelo de Sao Jorge. At times the road is so narrow that people have to hide in doorways to let the trams pass.

The Port Wine Institute in Lisbon is located across the road from the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara in the Chiado area. The easiest way to get there from Rossio and the Praca dos Restauradores areas in downtown is with the Elevador da Gloria. If you just missed the elevador it is worth waiting the 15 min or so for the next one rather than to struggle uphill – especially if you are heading towards the Institute to end the night after a heavy meal.

Despite its somewhat intimidating formal name, the institute is quite informal and very welcoming to the casual visitor. In Porto, the institute plays an important role in ensuring the quality of port, but in Lisbon it is mainly a showroom for the product. Although it is possible to buy bottles of port here the emphasis is on tasting rather than selling.

On arrival you will be shown to the lounge-like area open to the general public. The interior is dimly lit and very relaxing with comfortable chairs and sofas. You can choose from over 200 types of port – ranging from deep red to light gold and very sweet to extra dry and everything in between. Despite knowing close to zero about port, I never felt uncomfortable or intimidated by the place or the professional staff – no snootiness or airs of superiority as is often common in similar settings. Recommendations later in the evening were based on what we had already sampled and what would complement rather than on attempts to get us to try the more expensive stuff. My Portuguese friend handled the ordering but menus were in detailed English and the staff members seemed to be multilingual.

Prices range from about Euro 2,50 upwards for a decent size glass. It is possible to taste a wide range of types without having to resort to the real expensive ones. This is not the place to head for food – to the general public only light snacks such as nuts and crackers are served.

The Port Wine Institute has a shop in Lisbon airport after security, which makes it very convenient to pick up a few well-appreciated souvenirs without having to struggle with bottles at the checkpoints.

Belem is best reached from central Lisbon by tram 15. The journey takes about 20 minutes and follows the bank of the River Tagus. Both old and new trams operate on this route.

Belem is dominated by the Manueline architecture of the sixteenth century Monastery of St Jerome (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos). The south entrance to the church is exuberantly decorated, as are the vaulted arcades of the cloisters, with a mixture of religious themes and items related to Portugal’s maritime experience at the time of construction.

The nave of the church has spectacular slender octagonal pillars creating the impression that the roof is kept aloft by palms. The church contains the tombs of several Kings including Manuel I, Joao III and the empty tomb of King Sebastiao whose body was never recovered after dying in battle in 1578 trying to conquer Morocco. Each tomb is oddly supported by a pair of elephants!

Close to the rear entrance is the tomb of discoverer Vasco da Gama. His tomb is carved with seafaring instruments as well as religious symbols and artichokes. The discovery that the humble artichoke could be used to prevent scurvy was a major breakthrough in improving the health of intercontinental sailors.

The main attractions of the cloisters (free entry on Sundays) are the richly carved arches and balustrades, which were being cleaned and restored during 2001. The refectory is tiled with azulejos depicting biblical themes. Rooms in the cloister were rather bare. I have no idea though whether that is permanent or just as a result of the restoration in progress.

The famous Pasteis de Belem (custard pastry) can by bought just down the road from the Monastry close to the tram stop.

From a distance it looks fragile and almost dainty – a bit like a kitsch wedding cake – but close up, the amazing Torre de Belem unveils its true military purpose. It was built in 1520 by Manuel I as part of a defense system to protect the River Tagus estuary from naval attacks.

The Torre de Belem is a prime example of Manueline architecture confirming that military buildings can be both functional and beautiful. Close up, it is surprisingly small but so were the ships during the discoveries and with its full contingent of 17 cannons, it must have been a formidable fortress.

The Torre consists of a square main tower and a polygonal bastion as base. The first level is a vaulted dungeon where the cannons were kept. On the second level, the action is mostly outdoors and provides the best vantage points to admire the Manueline decorations of the main tower as the decorated façade faces the sea and not the mainland. The coat of arms of Manuel is above the Italian inspired loggia. The interior of the main tower is mostly bare making the view of the Tagus River and the Golden Gate-like Bridge of 25 April the main reason for climbing the spiral stairs. The spiral stairs get rather narrow higher up and it may be less pleasant on a busy day.

The Torre was traditionally the departure point for seafarers departing on voyages of discovery and a statue of the virgin and child – Our Lady of Safe Homecoming – is on the second level facing the waters. The Roman Catholic influences are also evident in battlements decorated with the cross of the Order of Christ and the top floor of the tower used to be a chapel.

However, the overwhelming impression of the Torre as a whole is Moorish with Arabic influences dominating the design. The architect, Francisco de Arruda, previously worked in Morocco and clearly got some inspiration from there. This is especially noticeable in the melon-shaped domes of the sentry posts as well as the stone carved rope that encircle the building and decorations of lion heads and pyramids.

The Torre de Belem used to be on a small island towards the right bank of the River Tagus from where it could provide crossfire with the Sao Sebastiao de Caparica fortress on the left bank. Nowadays only a special dam ensures that you actually have to cross water by gangway to reach the entrance from the north shore – the result of land reclamation projects in the nineteenth century.

In its almost half a millennium of existence, the Torre has served many roles from defensive bastion to customs house, jail and telegraph station. Currently, its main purpose is a tourist destination although it is also used during official state visits to Portugal. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, which should help to ensure its preservation despite the best efforts of modern day pollution.

Truth be told, despite claiming to have the best collection of coaches in Europe, I wasn’t actually planning to visit the Museu Nacional dos Coches. After having spent the better part of the day paying tribute to the Navigators by visiting the splendor of Belem’s more famous sites, a coach museum simply didn’t sound exciting enough to bother. However, another downpour combined with the fact that I lost the ability to use my umbrella some time earlier in the gusts next to the River Tagus left me with the option to wait in the rain for the tram or to visit this small museum. I never regretted entering this museum.

The museum has a collection of coaches dating from the 16th to 19th century. The original collection was coaches from the Portuguese Royal family but later more vehicles were added. The coaches are arranged in such a way that the development of technology that made the coaches both safer and more comfortable can clearly be seen. As the suspension systems improved they became less inclined to topple over. Sufficient English information is available to follow the technological developments and history without becoming too overwhelming for the lay.

The most impressive are the three coaches used by the Marquis de Fontes’ embassy to Pope Clement XI. These coaches were built in Rome in 1716. According to the museum these three coaches "are perfect samples of the carrozza Romana de aparato, where the open bodies are combined with imposing sculptural compositions on the rear and front panels". Less technically they can be described as being in the "if you have it flaunt it" style with the specific purpose to impress. It brought the crowds out whenever the Ambassador took the road and that was the whole idea. These gilded coaches decorated with several life-sized statues and the wonders of the Portuguese voyages of discoveries had to impress upon the people and above all the Pope how rich and important a world power Portugal was. The glowing reports on the beauty of the coaches reached Lisbon and the king had the coaches transported to Portugal in order to see them in person.

A second hall contains further simpler royal carriages but comes as a bit of an anticlimax after seeing the more extravagant coaches. It has carriages, chaises, cabriolets, litters, sedan chairs and even children’s buggies. The second floor has a collection of harnesses, costumes and portraits and can safely be missed unless you are particularly interested in those aspects.

Entrance to the museum is free on Sundays and National Holidays if you enter earlier than 14:00.

The Castle of St George is picturesquely positioned on top of a hill in the Alfama. It can be seen from most parts of the old city – whether from the opposing hills of the Bairro Alto or from the low-lying downtown area of Baixa, the medieval ramparts etch off beautifully against any sky.

After recapturing Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, King Alfonso constructed the castle as residence of the Portuguese Kings. However, in 1511 Manuel I, either not one for great views or simply tiring of the steep route uphill, constructed a more lavish palace at Praca do Comercio and the old castle converted from royal residence to theatre, prison and arms depot. The big earthquake of 1755 destroyed most of the old castle and it felt into disuse.

However, in the 1930s Salazar decided to restore the ruins and thus recreate the feel of the old medieval castle. The castle may not be thoroughly authentic but the ramparts and battlements are in beautiful condition and there is nothing garishly modern about the place. The walls and battlements can be climbed and walked at will and it is a great place for children and adults alike.

The views from the castle are spectacular in all directions – whether to the River Tagus, the old town, the Bairro Alto on the opposing hill or down the Alfama district. A large shaded observation terrace with lots of benches runs the full length of the side facing downtown. It is also fun to walk in the tightly packed but neat residential quarter of Santa Cruz, which provides a couple of street blocks of housing inside the old castle wall area.

Getting to the castle is half the fun. You can of course walk uphill, but be warned the streets are very steep. More fun is to take the rickety old tram no 12 from Praca da Figueira for a slow roller coaster like ride up and down very steep and narrow old streets. Get off close to the castle and walk the last few steep blocks.

There is a restaurant in the castle area and several stands selling refreshments in the area but bringing your own picnic lunch is probably the most attractive option. The castle itself is open from 09:00 to 21:00 in summer and to 18:00 in winter, but some of the observation terraces are open 24 hours. Entry is free.

The hilly area of Alfama was Lison in Moorish times. The Castelo de Sao Jorge was the royal residence until the sixteenth century and the area was the most sought after in Lisbon for centuries. Today the area has a somewhat impoverished and lived in feeling to it. Streets are narrow and steep, houses are close to each other and most could do with a touch of paint. However, the buildings were constructed in better times and many have interesting architectural features, iron wrought balconies, stone carvings and interesting towers. All in all it is a wonderful area to stroll around and enjoy the feeling of old town Lisbon. Tram #12 and #28 are old style and can take you on a slow Indian Jones-like ride through this steep narrow streets area.

The Castle dominates the skyline here but it is by far not the only place to visit. If you started of by visiting the castle, stroll downhill to the Miraduoro de Santa Luzia – a belvedere with wonderful views towards the River Tagus and Graca – an area similar to Alfama which is not seen from the castle. At and close to the Mirdaduoro are beautiful tile panels – one shows pre-earthquake Praca do Comercio and another how Christians attacked the Moorish Castle in the twelfth century.

In the area close to the Praca do Comercio is the Se Cathedral. The first cathedral of Se was constructed in 1150 by King Alfonso on the site of the mosque of the recently defeated Moors. However, time and earthquakes did damage and the current cathedral is a mixture of styles. The façade has two square towers, resembling parts of the castle up hill. The interior is simple and somewhat austere and gloomy.

Probably the best thing to do in Alfama is to simply stroll around and get lost in the maze of narrow and steep streets. The Alfama is encircled by tramline # 28 and even if you get helplessly lost you are bound to cross the tramline sooner or later. Tram #28 will take you depending on the direction of travel, back to Praca da Figuiera or via Praca do Comercio to Bairro Alto.

The Bairro Alto is the higher lying area on the hills opposite the Alfama and Castelo de Sao Jorge. This area is easiest reached from the downtown Baixa area by the Elevador da Gloria, from the Rossio area, or the Elevador de Santa Justa from downtown Baixa. Alternatively it is a steep walk uphill – much better to ride up and walk down if you feel energetic.

The most visited area of Bairro Alto is Chidao – a fashionable shopping area with several important churches. One of the most interesting is the Egreja do Carmo. This church was extensively damaged during the earthquake of 1755. The tremors struck during mass and the roof caved in on the congregation. The roof was never repaired and the open roofed nave with skeletal arches looking like bare ribs can be viewed from many parts of the city.

The other famous church in this area is Sao Roque. It has a plain façade but the most amazing gilded interior. The Chapel of St John the Baptist is richly decorated with gold, silver, lapis, alabaster and other precious stones. It was built in 1742 in Rome and after receiving the blessing from the Pope, dismantled and moved to Portugal. (Clearly current Pope John Paul the Second’s travels are saving churches all over the world small fortunes!) The adjacent Museum of Sacred Art has many further noteworthy items of art related to the church and Jesuit missionaries.

Sao Roque so dominates this area that many of the other churches do not seem to even get a mention in standard English guide books. I visited a church on the corner of Rua de Alecrim and Do Chiado which had no English description despite a wonderful interior. A couple of Germans passed by with a guidebook describing every single piece of art individually. I shudder to think how long it would took them to "do" the church of Sao Roque.

This area is generally very charming with beautiful buildings. Many have tiled facades – some just with patterns but others are more elaborate making huge mosaics of mythical figures. Several pracas provide shaded areas and benches to sit and relax and to drink in the beauty and atmosphere of this marvelous neighborhood.

Behind the Church of Sao Roque, just past the Elevador da Gloria is the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. This belvedere offers sweeping views of the downtown area, Castelo de Sao Jorge on the opposite hill and the River Tagus. A tiled map is available to point out some of the sights. The views are the best at sunset and at night. Across the road from the Belvedere is the Port Wine Institute.

In a sense all of Belem seems to be a tribute to the navigators. From Vasco da Gama’s tomb in the Church of Santa Maria to the themes of stone carvings and decorations at the Monastery of Jerome and the Torre de Belem. However, just in case some miss these subtle compliments even more direct tribute is paid at the Monument to the Discoveries and the Maritime Museum.

The Maritime Museum located in the west wing of the Jeronimos Monastery is well worth an hour or two. I visited on a weekday morning and it was deserted most of the time. Ample English descriptions are available at most exhibits.

The main hall is devoted to the Discoveries and depicts the development of seafaring from the fifteenth century onwards. Old and young will enjoy the scale models of ships, which graphically illustrate the development of technology and the constant increase in size of ships as new technology made larger construction possible. Also on display are maps and objects associated with the era of discoveries and naval instruments. Some are authentic and some are copies, for example the crosses that the navigators planted to show their continued progress along the coasts of Africa.

Further rooms depicting more modern ships are of lesser interest but towards the back of the museum are the exquisitely wood-paneled Royal Quarters taken from the early twentieth century royal yacht Amelia.

In a modern building across a small courtyard on the exit is a display of royal barges as well as a couple of seaplanes, including the Santa Clara which made the first South Atlantic crossing in 1922.

Across the formal gardens of Praca do Imperio on the banks of the River Tagus is the Monument to the Discoveries. The 52 meter high angular monument, resembling a caravel, was erected by the Salazar government in 1960 to commemorate the 500-year anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

On both sides of the monument are stone carvings of royalty, mariners, cartographers and other notables associated with the age of the discoveries. On the north side the paving has a massive compass with a world map showing the routes and the dates on which the Portuguese reached the new destinations.

It is possible to take an elevator up the inside of the monument for magnificent views of Belem, the Tagus River, Bridge of 25 April and the Torre de Belem.