The Occidental Tourist

The first time I came to Occidental, it was Accidental; we were just looking for an alternate route to the coast. Immediately upon entering this Wild-West-meets-Victorian-and-New-Age enclave, we hit the breaklights, parked the car, and spent an afternoon here. And we remembered and returned. For Occidental makes a wonderful base for exploring the greater Sonoma area. Wine tasting on the Russian River, hiking in the redwoods, or going to Bodega for some whale-watching or general beach combing are all within a quick drive. Within Occidental, there's some fun shopping, a spa and other similar low-key activities. (And that's the whole point of going to Occidental.)

Quick Tips:

I saw several people with easels and paintbrush in hand. Certainly a painter would have a wealth of subjects to portray. (art supplies are also available in town if your artistic urge bites you unawares.) Or just bring a camera and extra film.

Best Way To Get Around:

Unless you plan to cycle in on "The Bohemian Highway" you'd best take your motorized wheels. Once in Occidental, the town can easily be traversed on foot.

The inn sits on the hillside just above the village. Built in 1877, shortly after the founding of the town, this Victorian homestead was restored in 1988 with fir floors, wainscotted hallways and covered porches. The architectural highlight is undoubtedly the long veranda with welcoming seats that will have you thirsting for a pitcher of lemonade. Luckily, drinks are available throughout the day, and there''s a late afternoon social with wine and hors d''ouevres. Guests can wander the living and dining rooms downstairs and stroll about the gardens and courtyard. As for the "Breakfast" part of B&B, the Inn serves a FULL gourmet breakfast until 10am. All this luxury and Southern Hospitality has a price- $200 and up for rooms, (many with private decks, fireplaces, or an in-room-spa). Nearby is a separate 2BR+ cottage for $500 night that would be a great place to rent for a family reunion.

First of all, The Union Hotel is not a Hotel, heck, it's not even a restaurant: it's an Experience. While the Gonnella family still runs a motel with basic accomodations behind it, the focus now is on food, and lots of it.

This place typifies Family Style Dining. Big portions of traditional hearty Italian fare, cooked by authentic Italian immigrants whose family settled here in 1879. No new-age squid ink risotto or sun-dried tomato linguine here. You'll be ordering spaghetti with meatballs, fettucine alfredo, or chicken cacciatore. And forget ordering a la carte; with each entree you will be served antipasto AND minestrone soup AND green salad AND lots of sourdough-why-aren't-you-eating-more-is-everything-okay-good-then-have-another-bite! All this for under $20/person (Pepto Bismol not included.) They also serve great pizzas and they have a dessert list. However, I cannot imagine anyone who would have room for their cheesecake after having eaten a Union Hotel dinner.

Shopping along a street lined with stores that have not one thing you need, but many things that you will suddenly want, can be enjoyable but deadly for the wallet.

To give a flavor of what you will encounter as you walk hither and thither down Main Steet, here's a selections of the stores' names: Forget-me-not, Moonstoon Muse, Natural Connections, Hand Goods. Yes there's a reason this street is official signposted as the "Bohemian Highway." But no matter what your take on crystals for healing, these shops are a joy to peruse. Personally, I liked Leapin-Lizards Fun Store, which has a great collection of toys for youngsters aged 1 to 101. There's a great Italian deli to tempt you with salamis and biscotti. Take a break from all this unserious shopping with a latte and muffin at Howard's Cafe.

As you wander about this town and surrounds there will be some of you who wonder what the story is behind quaint names like "Occidental" and nearby "Meeker's Camp" or who look at a 19th century building and wonder what the walls could tell. Here's your chance. Amie Hill has written a small book with a long title that is filled with fun local facts: "An Historical and Anecdotal Walking Tour of the Small (but Fascinating) Village of Occidental, California. Just grab the book and start wandering through the town. (For optimal enjoyment, read the introductory sections while seated at the Inn's veranda, first.) It makes a great souvenir to remember your relaxing weekend.

Occidental is a great place to stay, and is central to the wineries, beaches, forests and other attractions of Sonoma county. Bring a jacket, a loaded camera, and a cooler full of goodies from the Facendini's Occidental Market (the Italian deli on mainstreet) and start exploring! For more ideas on potential activities in the immediate vicinity, please see my journal on "The Aroma of Sonoma." If you are more in a mood to visit the ocean, please see my journal on "More Rt 1 Rambles" which lists some of the coastal delights from Bolinas to Mendocino.